16\43 does work well and I ran it for a long time. It is as low as I would go personally.

After getting the carbs dialed in and a few other tweaks to the engine I am now back to 16\41 and am real happy with it for a couple of different reasons.

 

You're running right to the edge with that chain. It's rated for 100 hp and we're right at that or just over, also says for 1000cc max and we're right at that as well. $145 is cheap but when it lasts half as long as $240 you've just spent $50 more overall.

 

The chain that jeephawk linked to is rated at 8800ft/lbs. The one I ordered (530) is rated 9850ft/lbs. About 12% more. For a 520 chain it's not bad, or my 530 really sucks. lol

 

The one I just got has a tensile strength of 10,408. But I think there is a bit more to it than just tensile strenght. The DID site talks about fatigue as well. Also, just asking here, is the rating of the side plates or does it include the pins? Or is it just the whole chain overall?

I think the biggest issue is going to be the fatigue. As the chain gets pulled on repeatedly, especially with each power stroke of the engine being so much more focused than on an I4, it's going to fatigue the chain faster thus stretching it and making it fail. Not sure what the chain was that I had on my bike when I bought it but it was claimed to be the heavy duty version of the chain. I just hate to see anyone spit a chain like I did, or worse have it stack up around the countershaft and bust an engine case. I've seen that happen on other bikes, I'm sure it's a posability on these as well.

 

Was that a 520 or a 530?

 

No I haven't....opps. lol

With all this wheelie talk I'm beginning to think there is something wrong with my SH cause it does not come up like everyone says theirs does.

 

first gear should be just a twist of the throttle at pretty much any rpm. 2nd you have to work it up.

 

I doubt very much that my chain will be worn out or last half as long as the 530. I tend to think that if you properly adjust your chain and keep it clean and lubed it should last a long time. To me its a no brainer, but to each their own I guess.

As far as wheelies go... it depends on the bike, set up and weight of rider plus stance etc.etc. All I know is that at 210lbs my bike wont bring the front wheel up by just throttle alone, no matter what gear.

 

It's probably that light duty chain not getting the power to the rear wheel! LOL! Just messing with ya. It should pretty much lift anywhere in 1st with the torque these things make.

You're never really lubing an o-ring chain so much as keeping the o-rings conditioned and preventing them from cracking and leaking. Keeping it clean and adjusted is good for it but isn't going to affect how much it stretches so much. A chain that stretches faster will wear out the sprokets faster as well. If I was going to go cheap on one or the other I'd get cheap sprockets. A good chain will not stretch as fast and it will help cheap sprokets last longer. But a cheap chain that stretches quicker will wear the sprockets out faster too.

 

Mine doesn't lift up the nose in first at any rpm. I have to have the engine wound up a bit.

 

Nope. If you have a 102 link chain and you want a 43 rear then you need a 15 front. 102 chain WILL NOT fit a 16:43 set. Now I have to order a 41 or 42 rear.

At least I can clean the mess under the sprocket cover and install the chain but I don't want to run it on my worn 41. This sucks because I was all excited about riding this weekend. It's supposed to be 90.

 

Are you sure your chain adjusters are all the way forward? In my case I bought a 110 link chain and cut it to fit, I never counted the links it seems to me the chain was 104 links but if you check the manual in the knowledge section it'll be there.

 

Huh. Works on mine.

 

Where are you located?

 

I always ran a 102 link chain with 16\43 gearing so either your chain is less than 102 links or you're doing something wrong.

 

Illinois

I counted the original chain and it was 102. The one I ordered is a 102. With the adjusters all the way forward, 16 on front, 43 on back, it wouldn't fit. I'd need a 1/2 link to use it. With the 41 on back it fits and the adjustment indicators are on the worn side of normal. Which is probably right because I'm on the badly worn 41 rear. Now that the idle adjust is ok and carbs sync'd it had much stronger low end then before. I will likely order a 41 rear and sell the 43. Anyone want to buy a new JT 302-43 nickle plated rear?

 

Is the master link already fastened? The order that I put it together was to fasten the master link to make the chain a loop. Put chain over swingarm and then front sprocket. Then put chain on rear sprocket before putting the wheel in the swingarm. Then lift the wheel into the swingarm and assemble the axle bolt. It's a little tricky to do, but I'd always managed with only one person.

 

Well then you are the only person I have ever heard of that can not get it to fit.

I've run it and also installed it on a number of SHs so I do now that it will work and fits fine with a 102 link chain.

 

I tried before the master link was in to get it to lay over the sprocket. Wasn't happening.

 

Dude try this. Take the chain one end on the rear sprocket at about the 2 O'clock position, pull the other end up aroun the rear sprocket till they meet and insert the master link. If your just trying to get the ends to meet by just holding them together it ain't happening.

Or do what 7Moore7 does both ways work.

 

The good deal on the Sunstar 530 chains has ended. They're now listed at $159.00- not $79.20. Glad I acted quickly and scored three of 'em.

 

I put the bottom length at 3 o'clock and the chain wouldn't make it. I recounted the new chain to make sure they sent me a 102 and it's 102 counting the master link. I checked to make sure it didn't get hung up on anything. I don't see any swing arm changes or welds and I'm pretty sure these are the right adjusters. I only have ebay pics to compare to.

 

I don't mean to offend but have you counted the teeth on the sprocket? Are you sure the adjusters are all the way forward? Have you tried 7Moore7's recommendation. The point is we have all done it so can you if everything is done correctly.

 

None taken. I've been a mechanic for years and have owned dozens of cars and dirt bikes but this is my first superhawk. I came here mainly for bike-specific suggestions and tips on the ratios. I know how to install a chain. I tried holding the chain at 3 oclock (same difference as 2 oclock) and laying the chain over the top. I also tried with the front sprocket removed and chain mounted on the sprockets with the master link in place. Couldn't pull the front sprocket up far enough to reach the shaft. Yes the adjusters are all the way forward. Everything was counted 102, 16, 43.

 

OK then try what 7Moore7 suggested. Remove the rear axle, move the tire assembly forward, mount the chain with the link up near the c/s sprocket. Now use the additional leverage of the wheel to get it all back in place (I always use some pieces of wood under the tire to make lifting the tire assy level with axle) insert axle finish staking the master link and get a beer!

 

With the wheel all the way forward, a half link would put the chain play where it should be. I won't run half links on a motorcycle though. There's no pulling the wheel into place.

 

I'm gonna have to +1 on this and wish you luck!

 

Maybe you could take a pic with the chain wrapped around the rear sprocket with the conutershaft sprocket cover and the upper chain cover off so we can see the entire length of the chain. Maybe then we can see something that's wrong with the set up.

 

Only thing I could do now, easily, is move the rear wheel forward and attempt to loop the chain back two teeth on the old 41 sprocket that's back on the bike. I don't want to rip it all down again until I receive the new 41. Then I'd be able to slip the 43 on to show you.