When to switch-over to Synthetic Oil?
#1
When to switch-over to Synthetic Oil?
My 03 SH has about 7K miles on it, and I have been running the Pro-Honda GN4 10W40 regular (non-synthetic) oil in her since I bought the bike about 2-years ago.
I am thinking about switching to full synthetic oil, but wanted to know the collective wisdom on doing so.
I recall from experience with one of my previous bikes (BMW oil head twin) that full synthetic oil was not recommended until 10-12K miles.
Does this same logic apply to our SuperHawks?
I am thinking about switching to full synthetic oil, but wanted to know the collective wisdom on doing so.
I recall from experience with one of my previous bikes (BMW oil head twin) that full synthetic oil was not recommended until 10-12K miles.
Does this same logic apply to our SuperHawks?
#3
The day is was made is not too soon..
Ring seat is the only concern and it was 90% done in the first few minutes.
This is not a '64 chevy station wagon with a 6 cyl straight.
The days of using only dino non detergent oil for break in are long gone... even if the mis information continues.
Ring seat is the only concern and it was 90% done in the first few minutes.
This is not a '64 chevy station wagon with a 6 cyl straight.
The days of using only dino non detergent oil for break in are long gone... even if the mis information continues.
#4
Switched out the OE oil on my 95 Acura @ 500 miles w/ full syn and never turned back, 96k and going.
I've experimented w/ different oils in the Hawk, syn and dino. Mobil1 4t shifts the best, hands down. No ill effects going to or fro.
I've experimented w/ different oils in the Hawk, syn and dino. Mobil1 4t shifts the best, hands down. No ill effects going to or fro.
#5
Mobil 1 4t? Whats the 4t?
Oils seem to change yearly but I ran regular car mobil 1 full syn in my old CBR for years, including racetrack time, commuting, etc. It was stolen at @ 98,000 miles with no ill effects. (or should I say many positive effects)
Oils seem to change yearly but I ran regular car mobil 1 full syn in my old CBR for years, including racetrack time, commuting, etc. It was stolen at @ 98,000 miles with no ill effects. (or should I say many positive effects)
#6
4t is their motorcycle specific line. I find it for $8-10 per quart
From the site:
Maximum shear stability - Helps resist viscosity shear down in high performance engines and transmissions.
Exceptional thermal stability - Helps resist oxidation and high-temperature degradation.
Outstanding protection - Against wear of engine and transmission components.
Enhanced lubrication - Helps maintain maximum power and acceleration over the life of the engine.
Optimized wet-clutch performance - Meets JASO MA.
Excellent low-temperature flow characteristics - Helps minimize engine wear during start-up.
Additive packages balanced differently for motorcycle engine and transmission operation. For passenger vehicles, fuel economy and emission system protection are higher priorities. These require low phosphorus systems and the use of friction modifiers. Motorcycle oils do not require friction modifiers for fuel economy and for better clutch friction less/no friction modifier is optimum. Motorcycle oils allow the use of higher levels of antiwear additives such as ZDDP (phosphorous).
Honestly this stuff shifts better in my Hawk than anything else I've tried. Motul is one I haven't.
Last edited by Wolverine; 08-03-2012 at 01:43 PM.
#7
Oh No Another Earl Thread
Really its upto ur wallet.
I too ran Honda 10w40 for years & then changed to different semi-syn - whatever Cycle Gear has on sale.
I noticed a small difference in shifting as I recall.
But weather U stay w/ dino earl, semi syn or full syn, don't think U will notice much. Remember earl gets dirty, while U can ride longer on syn, it'll still gets dirty. So if ur like me & I'm sure most here & change anywhere from 2k to 4k miles any earl will be fine.
just my .02 - I could be wrong.
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