Wheel Issue :(
#1
Wheel Issue :(
So after getting a new chain from the local "reputable" Honda dealer it was insanely tight and I ended up loosening it as soon as I got home as there was no slack in it all and it was actually howling (poor VTR in pain)
a few weeks after the fact and I've noticed an annoying rubbing sound which it appears to be the rear brake rubbing. So after a closer look the chain wasn't running centred on the rear sprocket either
I fully tightened the chain adjusted and loosed it out equal turns on each side but it still seemed a little out and an extra half turn on the right seems to have the chain running centre and the brake pad not rubbing but...
at one point in the chain it seems to move to one side for probably not even 5-6 links and aroung the same point the brake rubs. Is this still a wheel alignment issue?
I'm trying to measure it out but am a little baffled as the measurement from the centre of the wheel to the inside of the swingarm is different by about 25mm between the two sides and I know it can't that far out!
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys!
a few weeks after the fact and I've noticed an annoying rubbing sound which it appears to be the rear brake rubbing. So after a closer look the chain wasn't running centred on the rear sprocket either
I fully tightened the chain adjusted and loosed it out equal turns on each side but it still seemed a little out and an extra half turn on the right seems to have the chain running centre and the brake pad not rubbing but...
at one point in the chain it seems to move to one side for probably not even 5-6 links and aroung the same point the brake rubs. Is this still a wheel alignment issue?
I'm trying to measure it out but am a little baffled as the measurement from the centre of the wheel to the inside of the swingarm is different by about 25mm between the two sides and I know it can't that far out!
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys!
#4
ok so after some playing around I think I have the alignment correct but it still seems to deviate to one side at certain points when I watch the chain running over the sprocket. Still seem to have a lot of brake rub as well.
So thinking as you mentioned Saige that the rim may not be straight and true. I guess I'm going to have to fork out to find out. What would it take to bend a rim on one of these though? I go pretty easy on it and if there was a problem it certainly didnt seem as bad when I got it off the previous owner
So thinking as you mentioned Saige that the rim may not be straight and true. I guess I'm going to have to fork out to find out. What would it take to bend a rim on one of these though? I go pretty easy on it and if there was a problem it certainly didnt seem as bad when I got it off the previous owner
#5
If the rim has slight bends in it,it could be anything the past owner did.could come from pot holes,lowsides,mishaps from changing tires.
I would put the bike in the air and spin the rim and see if you notice any waves on it or any bends,and maybe take the rim off the bike and make sure all the cush drive pieces are there.make sure the hub is sitting correct and flush when mounted on rim.
make sure bearings is flat on its mating surface.
If all checks out,start checking the swing are for any damage and check the mounting bracket the holds the rear caliper.and definatly check the rear disc for warpage and make sure its flush and properly mated to the rim.
If the rim was ever poweder coated or painted,maybe some residue got on to the mating surface.
When i bought my bike,i never realized my rims were bent until i put a new rear tire on.i was quite dissapointed.
I would put the bike in the air and spin the rim and see if you notice any waves on it or any bends,and maybe take the rim off the bike and make sure all the cush drive pieces are there.make sure the hub is sitting correct and flush when mounted on rim.
make sure bearings is flat on its mating surface.
If all checks out,start checking the swing are for any damage and check the mounting bracket the holds the rear caliper.and definatly check the rear disc for warpage and make sure its flush and properly mated to the rim.
If the rim was ever poweder coated or painted,maybe some residue got on to the mating surface.
When i bought my bike,i never realized my rims were bent until i put a new rear tire on.i was quite dissapointed.
#6
thanks for your help guys. It's my only transport at the moment and am spending all my spare time at work at the moment so I was hoping I wouldnt have to pull it apart too much
I had it up on the stand today and I can see some deviation when you spin the wheel but it's hard to tell if it's just imperfections in the tyre or in the wheel as well. Is it possible that when the dealer refitted the wheel out of alignment that it could have warped the brake rotor and drive sprocket while riding?
Did you end up having to replace your rims saige?
I had it up on the stand today and I can see some deviation when you spin the wheel but it's hard to tell if it's just imperfections in the tyre or in the wheel as well. Is it possible that when the dealer refitted the wheel out of alignment that it could have warped the brake rotor and drive sprocket while riding?
Did you end up having to replace your rims saige?
#7
#8
A bent rim would not effect the sprocket and disc. What did the dealer replace the chain and sprockets? The 25mm I think you are talking about is the wheel offset which should not be giving you problems either. I would take the wheel off and check everything that saige says. Also make sure the caliper is in the stay correctly. Then back the adjusters off and push the wheel all the way forward in the swing arm and start from there.
#9
RWhisen, sorry dude, I'm going to contradict you again...
The markings on the VTR in stock form is completely useless for knowing that the wheel is aligned... If you go by the markings or try counting on the screws you will almost certainly get problems...
I'd suggest using a caliper and measuring on both sides axle to a fixed point on the "legs" of the swingarm, like you said, the swing isn't symmetrical, so measuring that way isn't helping... A good suggestion is the "bottom" of the hole for the setscrew, to the axle... Also, setting it and then locking the axle will undoubtedly end up being crooked, because the chain tension screws you up, put the stalk of a screwdriver in the chain and sprocket, and gently roll the wheel to catch the screwdriver, that way you seat the wheel against the adjuster fully, and then adjust, repeat, adjust...
Plus, even if the wheel is on crooked, that means that the axle sits crooked, so by logical reasoning the brake would then rub evenly around the whole rotation... That doesn't add up with what you are saying...
A good way of checking your wheel, get a piece of chalk, hold it against the swingarm and let it contact the rim of the wheel and spin it... If you hold the chalk dead still, and you get a line all the way, it's straight... Might need a few tries, since it's easy to move the chalk if there is a highpoint...
If the cushdrive is damaged or some of the rubbers is missing, it might give you a wheel that wobbles enough to have the brake rub unevenly... just a thought...
The markings on the VTR in stock form is completely useless for knowing that the wheel is aligned... If you go by the markings or try counting on the screws you will almost certainly get problems...
I'd suggest using a caliper and measuring on both sides axle to a fixed point on the "legs" of the swingarm, like you said, the swing isn't symmetrical, so measuring that way isn't helping... A good suggestion is the "bottom" of the hole for the setscrew, to the axle... Also, setting it and then locking the axle will undoubtedly end up being crooked, because the chain tension screws you up, put the stalk of a screwdriver in the chain and sprocket, and gently roll the wheel to catch the screwdriver, that way you seat the wheel against the adjuster fully, and then adjust, repeat, adjust...
Plus, even if the wheel is on crooked, that means that the axle sits crooked, so by logical reasoning the brake would then rub evenly around the whole rotation... That doesn't add up with what you are saying...
A good way of checking your wheel, get a piece of chalk, hold it against the swingarm and let it contact the rim of the wheel and spin it... If you hold the chalk dead still, and you get a line all the way, it's straight... Might need a few tries, since it's easy to move the chalk if there is a highpoint...
If the cushdrive is damaged or some of the rubbers is missing, it might give you a wheel that wobbles enough to have the brake rub unevenly... just a thought...
Last edited by Tweety; 02-06-2011 at 09:37 AM.
#11
Yea,had to replace both front and rear rims,habit put on yet,gonna do complete suspension overhaul all at once,got rims from member on here,got a great deal.
Hopefully in next 2 weeks or so,I will have it all replaced.
As some as said, before taking all apart,just do some good inspections to try and get a idea of what's really happening.most important,the chalk test,that's good idea and good starting point.
Hopefully in next 2 weeks or so,I will have it all replaced.
As some as said, before taking all apart,just do some good inspections to try and get a idea of what's really happening.most important,the chalk test,that's good idea and good starting point.
#12
Sounds to me like your overtightened chain may have wiped out one or more of your rear wheel bearings. Alignment, as mentioned could certainly be off as well. The fact that it's rotational noise rather than constant doesn't necessarily mean anything, as we don't know the last time the rear brakes have been gone through, and I've seen plenty of brake rotors over the years with a slight bend to them from someone being careless doing a tire change and tweaking them on a pneumatic tire machine. Might not have been noticeable before, but if your chain was so tight as to be howling, it might have wiped out that bearing enough to make it obvious. You're certainly going to have to do some more detective work though.
Out of curiosity, how did they go about replacing your chain? Was it a continuous link chain, necessitating all that disassembly? Or did they just break they old one off and put a new one on with a rivet or clip master? With rivet style masters, I never have to even remove the wheel...just measure and set tension after installation...that's what leads me to believe the tight chain killed a bearing.
Hope you get it resolved soon!
-R
Out of curiosity, how did they go about replacing your chain? Was it a continuous link chain, necessitating all that disassembly? Or did they just break they old one off and put a new one on with a rivet or clip master? With rivet style masters, I never have to even remove the wheel...just measure and set tension after installation...that's what leads me to believe the tight chain killed a bearing.
Hope you get it resolved soon!
-R
#13
Sounds like there's quite a few things there that could cause it.
The dealer only replaced the chain, said the sprockets were ok. I would have preferred to do both at the same time but as mentioned it seems seriously painful to find a good bike mechanic.
I'm fairly certain I've got the alignment right but sounds like it could be the cush drive or even the bearings, guess I won't know till I can get it apart. Will try to get it up on the stands soon and let you know how I go. Now off to buy chalk!
The dealer only replaced the chain, said the sprockets were ok. I would have preferred to do both at the same time but as mentioned it seems seriously painful to find a good bike mechanic.
I'm fairly certain I've got the alignment right but sounds like it could be the cush drive or even the bearings, guess I won't know till I can get it apart. Will try to get it up on the stands soon and let you know how I go. Now off to buy chalk!
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