want to make sure this will work for my bike
#1
want to make sure this will work for my bike
So i just purchased this voltage regulator for my bike and wanted to make sure it would work. i should have asked first but the thread i was reading said the regulator from a zx6r would work but after purchasing it he said it was a 08 one that he purchased and this one came off a00 01 02 ZX6R. Will it work for what I need. I really hope so.
#2
Most Reg/Rec's all work the same and have 3 wires from the stator and a red and black wire for positive and ground to the battery. The biggest differences are going to be the loads they can handle depending on the size of the system that's on the bike they came off of. If you've got probably 3 yellow wires, a black and a red just hook them up the same as the one on your bike and it should work fine. If it's got a different number of wires then it's hard to say and you'd probably need to get a wire diagram for the other bike to verify what the wires are going to.
#6
#7
it is from a 2001 zxr600. It has 2 pigtails one has 3 solid black wires on it and the other one has a total of 5 wires in it. one is a blue/black,one is black/red, one is black/white and one is solid black so it has only 7 connectors. the number on the back of it is sh650-12 then .9 below it. Anyways maybe that will help some of you out.
edit= So i downloaded the kawasaki manual for this regulator and the red/white wire is ground and the blue blue/black wire is the power and the 3 solid black are the stator. The red/black wire is for the turn signal relay and the solid black is the headlight. So i am gonna tackle this tonight and see what I can do. I rode the bike to get it registered today and the battery finally died on me. So i have to get this going. Thanks again and if someone can tell me what type of regulator i have from the number i posted that would be much appreciated.
edit= So i downloaded the kawasaki manual for this regulator and the red/white wire is ground and the blue blue/black wire is the power and the 3 solid black are the stator. The red/black wire is for the turn signal relay and the solid black is the headlight. So i am gonna tackle this tonight and see what I can do. I rode the bike to get it registered today and the battery finally died on me. So i have to get this going. Thanks again and if someone can tell me what type of regulator i have from the number i posted that would be much appreciated.
Last edited by herbvtr1000f; 05-21-2012 at 03:25 PM.
#9
got it hooked up then went to autozone and had them hook up a volt meter and check it. At idle it is sitting at 12.56 and at 5000rpm it goes up to 13.3. I know it is not accurate so tomorrow i am going to my friends house with his volt meter and check it and see where it is at. Other than that it is charging the battery and Everything seems okie dokie so far.
#10
You still have a problem to solve. Part of the problem could be the battery itself, but I am inclined to think something else is also out of order. If you do nothing then do not be surprised when the engine fails to start one day soon or leaves you stranded on the roadside.
Have you plugged the battery into a wall charger to bring it up to a fully charged state? If not then the test numbers will be inaccurate, especially the idle voltage.
#11
Well the battery did die on me earlier on the day so the battery did not have a full charge when I checked it. I don't a have charger but tomorrow I am going to take it to my friends and go over everything. My battery was completely dead when I started working on the bike. I had to bump start it and once I got it running I rode it around for about 20 minutes. Shut it off and it fired right up. I am guessing it is charging the battery up. Bit like I said I am going to go to my friends shop get a full charge on the battery and go from there. It does run although better though
#13
I know I know LOL all that requires money and right now we are barely staying afloat. I don't even ride the bike because it is not insured and I can't afford it. I am glad to have a wonderful knowledge base to come to check for solutions.
#14
The money savings in fuel costs from riding the bike will most likely more than pay for the insurance. Here in WA you don't have to have insruance but when I looked into it it's like $250 a year for liability and comprehensive so it's a no brainer I save WAY more than $21 a month in fuel by riding every day rain or shine!
#17
So an update. I went to my buddies shop today and we got his voltmeter and at idle I am at 13.3 and then revs it to about 6500 and the damn thing goes all the way up to 17. I am freaking out now because he tells me UT is overcharging. I wired it up just like the one thread said to with the black/blue being power and the red/white is ground. The regulator I got is from 01 zx6r. I am frustrated now. What do you all think
#18
So an update. I went to my buddies shop today and we got his voltmeter and at idle I am at 13.3 and then revs it to about 6500 and the damn thing goes all the way up to 17. I am freaking out now because he tells me UT is overcharging. I wired it up just like the one thread said to with the black/blue being power and the red/white is ground. The regulator I got is from 01 zx6r. I am frustrated now. What do you all think
2) I am pretty sure we established it had an SH prefix in the P/N# indicating this is not a MOSFET R/R - correct?
#19
Yes that's correct. As far as the battery goes I haven been riding the bike for 2 days now. Bike seems to run fine. As far as the battery it was completely dead 2 days ago. Anyways I will see what it does. I hope I dont fry my system.
#20
ANYTHING ABOVE 15.5V = PARK THE BIKE IMMIDIATELY!
You are risking having to replace the ECU & CDI of the bike at ~$1000 each...
Those parts are specified to withstand 16V for short periods, and no more than 15.5V continuosly...
My advice, spend the money on a Mosfet R/R, there are numerous post detailing the exact models to look for, mine amongst them... You will regret riding the bike like it is, as it will end up costing money...
Most likely the R/R you have needs a trigger signal on some of the lines, or a specific voltage for the fuel pump... That's the usual tricks from manufacturers to keep it from being hotwired... So, when you wired it up, and it's missing that, you get a too high voltage...
You are risking having to replace the ECU & CDI of the bike at ~$1000 each...
Those parts are specified to withstand 16V for short periods, and no more than 15.5V continuosly...
My advice, spend the money on a Mosfet R/R, there are numerous post detailing the exact models to look for, mine amongst them... You will regret riding the bike like it is, as it will end up costing money...
Most likely the R/R you have needs a trigger signal on some of the lines, or a specific voltage for the fuel pump... That's the usual tricks from manufacturers to keep it from being hotwired... So, when you wired it up, and it's missing that, you get a too high voltage...
#21
ANYTHING ABOVE 15.5V = PARK THE BIKE IMMIDIATELY!
You are risking having to replace the ECU & CDI of the bike at ~$1000 each...
Those parts are specified to withstand 16V for short periods, and no more than 15.5V continuosly...
My advice, spend the money on a Mosfet R/R, there are numerous post detailing the exact models to look for, mine amongst them... You will regret riding the bike like it is, as it will end up costing money...
Most likely the R/R you have needs a trigger signal on some of the lines, or a specific voltage for the fuel pump... That's the usual tricks from manufacturers to keep it from being hotwired... So, when you wired it up, and it's missing that, you get a too high voltage...
You are risking having to replace the ECU & CDI of the bike at ~$1000 each...
Those parts are specified to withstand 16V for short periods, and no more than 15.5V continuosly...
My advice, spend the money on a Mosfet R/R, there are numerous post detailing the exact models to look for, mine amongst them... You will regret riding the bike like it is, as it will end up costing money...
Most likely the R/R you have needs a trigger signal on some of the lines, or a specific voltage for the fuel pump... That's the usual tricks from manufacturers to keep it from being hotwired... So, when you wired it up, and it's missing that, you get a too high voltage...
#22
so i made an offer to this guy thinking it was the right year part i needed. the Serial number is FH001. Here is the part 2003 Yamaha FJR1300 Voltage Regulator Rectifier OEM | eBay. it is from a 2003 fjr1300. I know in your thread tweety it said to be from a 2007 fj1300. Will this one work for what i need?
#23
so i made an offer to this guy thinking it was the right year part i needed. the Serial number is FH001. Here is the part 2003 Yamaha FJR1300 Voltage Regulator Rectifier OEM | eBay. it is from a 2003 fjr1300. I know in your thread tweety it said to be from a 2007 fj1300. Will this one work for what i need?
I can't see any mention of it being FH-xxx, and the image is to blurry to be 100% sure, but FH generally stands for Mosfet based, so it's worth a shot...
#24
This is an example of a known good MOSFET R/R type several have used here.
2007 08 Kawasaki ZX 6R OEM Voltage Regulator Rectifier & bracket oem zx6r | eBay
2007 08 Kawasaki ZX 6R OEM Voltage Regulator Rectifier & bracket oem zx6r | eBay
#25
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=150783654752 I bought this one. This is a known mosfet one right?
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