Uneven rear brake pad wear
#1
Uneven rear brake pad wear
How much play or movement is normal on the rear floating calipers?
Replaced rear brake rotor and pads today. Bike has little braking power from rear. Couldn't skid if I stood on the brake. As it was the pads that came off were worn as if the caliper was slightly at an angle. It brakes a bit better with new parts, but I suspect they new ones are only getting partial contact due to angle.
First thought was to replace all the OEM bolts and sleeves, mostly the rear sleeve. Before just replacing $30 worth of fasteners, has anyone else had this problem and is there another possible problem? I just bought the bike a few weeks ago and don't know much about it's history.
Replaced rear brake rotor and pads today. Bike has little braking power from rear. Couldn't skid if I stood on the brake. As it was the pads that came off were worn as if the caliper was slightly at an angle. It brakes a bit better with new parts, but I suspect they new ones are only getting partial contact due to angle.
First thought was to replace all the OEM bolts and sleeves, mostly the rear sleeve. Before just replacing $30 worth of fasteners, has anyone else had this problem and is there another possible problem? I just bought the bike a few weeks ago and don't know much about it's history.
#2
The stock rear brake on my VTR felt as though it belonged on a dirt bike. Braking performance did not improve until I replaced the brake line. Another problem could be air in the brake line. The rear brake line and caliper can be a bit tricky to bleed. New pads can take a while to bed in too.
#3
Ronayers.com Microfiche Honda>Motorcycle>1999>VTR1000F>REAR BRAKE CALIPER
Dismantle the brake and check that the slider pins & sleeves are free moving and not corroded and copper greased. Also that rubber boots/sleeves are intact and keeping water etc out.
Clean piston, check seals (if necessary replace) and make sure it all moves freely and give it a good bleed.
Dismantle the brake and check that the slider pins & sleeves are free moving and not corroded and copper greased. Also that rubber boots/sleeves are intact and keeping water etc out.
Clean piston, check seals (if necessary replace) and make sure it all moves freely and give it a good bleed.
#4
I bleed it and flushed out all the brake fluid while replacing the brake line. Will check sleeve for wear tomorrow. The front pin was like a rusty old nail. Back wasn't in bad shape. Was wondering if the caliper mount could be bent too. Will check tomorrow. Thanks for the quick feedback.
#5
Uneven wear is 90%the always frozen pins... new pads will work better because they aren't angled so you get a full bite for a little while till they wear down... pull the rusted pin clean it with a wire wheel or brush... hit the claiper where it goes with a die grinder or sand paper... lube it up with caliper lube and you should be good to go assuming the pin isn't pitted if it is replace it...
#6
It could also be a poorly aligned rear wheel...if you spin the tire and hear uneven scuffing noise, tha'ts the culprit. Cant go by those alignment marks on the side...have to actually measure them. But yours float...so...hmmm.
Also, using EBC double H pads helped me out a LOT with rear brake force. They easily lock now if im too overzealous...
Also, using EBC double H pads helped me out a LOT with rear brake force. They easily lock now if im too overzealous...
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