Turn Signal Indicator
#1
Turn Signal Indicator
I have been viewing this forum for quite some time without posting anything due to my limited knowledge of the Super Hawk. But now, with the help of this forum I am attempted to customize the bike and learn about it more. So far everythig has gone good in customizing until I tried to put LEDs in the front and the rear.
From the advice posted in other threads I bought a new relay for LEDs to rectify the blink rate, and carefully attached all wires with solder and shrink rap around each one. Everything seems to be alright with the exception of my signal indicator lights in my dash are always on.
No fuse is blown, The R/R seems to be alright, the battery has the proper voltage, and sometimes the side signals are dim with little to no blink.
I have LEDs for front and rear signal, OEM tail light until my Clear Alternatives Integrated light arrives, Silver Light ultra head light. I have not touched the dash assembly at all, and all wires are ok with no pinches or ground outs.
If anyone else has experienced this or knows of a solution, any directions would be most apreciated.
From the advice posted in other threads I bought a new relay for LEDs to rectify the blink rate, and carefully attached all wires with solder and shrink rap around each one. Everything seems to be alright with the exception of my signal indicator lights in my dash are always on.
No fuse is blown, The R/R seems to be alright, the battery has the proper voltage, and sometimes the side signals are dim with little to no blink.
I have LEDs for front and rear signal, OEM tail light until my Clear Alternatives Integrated light arrives, Silver Light ultra head light. I have not touched the dash assembly at all, and all wires are ok with no pinches or ground outs.
If anyone else has experienced this or knows of a solution, any directions would be most apreciated.
#2
How many wires to the LEDs have? If you have three wires, my guess is you switched at least one "always hot" lead in the front with a signal lead. The signal leads are blue and orange and they both have white tracers. The running lights (always hot) are solid blue(right) and orange(left).
#3
The leds in the rear were (2) wires [hot & ground], and the front were (3) [running, signal, ground]. I followed the wiring description on one of the forum posts, but it may be incorrect. I'll double check that they are hooked up properly.
If I have a OEM tail light with normal bulbs, normal headlight, and the relay for LEDs hooked up would that make a difference?
If I have a OEM tail light with normal bulbs, normal headlight, and the relay for LEDs hooked up would that make a difference?
#4
It shouldn't, but I wasn't looking over your shoulder when you wired everything up. Since the rear turn signal and running lights are in physically separate housings, it would be harder to cross the lines there.
#5
Wiring is a funny thing. I once hooked up a GPS in my car back when you had you hard- wire them into your car. I followed the instructions to the letter. No luck. I finally called the manufacturer, the tech that answered was a good guy, he said "oh, the manual is wrong, they mislabled the purple and orange wire, just exchange those two and you will be fine". I did that, and yes, I was fine.
As for your wiring, verify each wire with multi-meter as you go along. See which one blinks, and which one is constant, and check the grounds. I like to use an analog meter for this type of testing as I want to see the motion more than the values. When I calibrated the TPS I used a digital meter as I wanted to get 500 ohms. You may want to go back to the original config that worked to do this, not sure. These are not unusual situations. Do a google search on your flasher model number with the word "wiring" after it, that may help too.
As for your wiring, verify each wire with multi-meter as you go along. See which one blinks, and which one is constant, and check the grounds. I like to use an analog meter for this type of testing as I want to see the motion more than the values. When I calibrated the TPS I used a digital meter as I wanted to get 500 ohms. You may want to go back to the original config that worked to do this, not sure. These are not unusual situations. Do a google search on your flasher model number with the word "wiring" after it, that may help too.
#6
My bike did the same thing when I picked it up from my mechanic for a valve adjustment. I returned to tell him about it and he fixed it by interchanging two wires on the front signals (would assume it was the running light and turn signal power feeds; if they are cross-wired the indicator lights in the dash stay on).
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
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