Trouble with "choke"
#31
Choke will make the bike run fast when the engine is warm.
Leave the choke on long enough and you foul the plugs with too much gas and crud.
I haven't tried pulling the choke out when warm. It may kill the engine.
Some bikes will run for a bit before it dies.
Good luck starting it again without taking the plugs out.
You may be able to start it again if you leave it to dry out for a bit.
Leave the choke on long enough and you foul the plugs with too much gas and crud.
I haven't tried pulling the choke out when warm. It may kill the engine.
Some bikes will run for a bit before it dies.
Good luck starting it again without taking the plugs out.
You may be able to start it again if you leave it to dry out for a bit.
#33
I think he meant turn the choke off, not the ignition
#35
You only need to run the choke long enough for the engine to idle without it. In fact, anything longer than 20-30 seconds is probably too long. I only use the choke at all if the air temps are below 40F. I'm running a tab rich on my pilot screws which would explain that, but even when stock I hardly ever used the the choke except to just get the engine to fire and then pushed it off immediately.
Once again, the choke is only necessary to get the engine running, if it's warm (or warmed up) enough to run without it then you should not be using it.
#37
I usually pull the choke out about half way for about 30 seconds or when the second car alarm in my complex starts going off. Ill keep the choke pulled for about 2 blocks, she is good after that.
#39
Running with the enrichener circuit on for that long is not good. The manual says 30 seconds maximum to avoid washing oil off the cylinder walls.
But of course if its running extremely lean, the enrichener would just be evening out the mixture. You must be running lean.
But of course if its running extremely lean, the enrichener would just be evening out the mixture. You must be running lean.
If it won't idle after 30 seconds of "choke", your idle speed may be too low. I usually have to hold the throttle at about 1500+ rpm until the temp gets to over 100. But I have stock exhaust and air filter, and my idle is set at 1400 rpm after warm-up.
After a cold start I let the temp get to at least 135 before riding...gives the pistons time to expand.
Last edited by VTRsurfer; 04-08-2009 at 08:55 AM.
#40
gotcha, I was told by the previous owner to let it warm to 170. I have done that since purchase. My Idle after warm up is about 1100-1200. I'll kick it up a notch. Took her out for around 160-170 miles today. Still performs flawlessly, accept for that damn second gear. Bike has 2500 miles on it, and every so often I have trouble selecting second. oh well.
#41
I've owned 3 Hondas, and a "lazy" upshift into 2nd will almost always result in a missed shift. Try shifting more deliberately. If that doesn't work, you may have worn shift dogs.
Mine is usually up to at least 160 before I'm suited up and ready to go, but after a restart later in the ride, I'll take off as long as it's 120 or higher. You just want to get the oil warm and the pistons expanded before getting on it hard.
Mine is usually up to at least 160 before I'm suited up and ready to go, but after a restart later in the ride, I'll take off as long as it's 120 or higher. You just want to get the oil warm and the pistons expanded before getting on it hard.
#43
Occasionally I get a missed shift, usually when daydreaming while accelerating slowly, or when the car in front of me takes off then slows down just as I'm shifting to 2nd. I've missed the 4th to 5th shift a handfull of times under hard acceleration...again due to lazy shift. That's called a "false neutral", but just as embarrassing.
Last edited by VTRsurfer; 04-08-2009 at 08:52 PM.
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