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Trouble with "choke"

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Old 04-07-2009, 06:12 PM
  #31  
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Choke will make the bike run fast when the engine is warm.
Leave the choke on long enough and you foul the plugs with too much gas and crud.
I haven't tried pulling the choke out when warm. It may kill the engine.
Some bikes will run for a bit before it dies.
Good luck starting it again without taking the plugs out.
You may be able to start it again if you leave it to dry out for a bit.
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Old 04-07-2009, 06:18 PM
  #32  
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Oh no, it will fire back up. I'm just trying to figure out why the idle spikes now when i let it warm up with the choke out. I haven't flooded it or anything.
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Old 04-08-2009, 12:16 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by VTRsurfer
When you say it stays running after turning it off, are you saying it is "dieseling", which is running without ignition? Only carbureted engines can diesel and a disconnected vacuum line or a vacuum leak could be the cause.
I think he meant turn the choke off, not the ignition
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Old 04-08-2009, 03:10 AM
  #34  
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Hello! I think you must remove the spark plugs and inspect them! In my oppinion you must change the spark plugs
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Old 04-08-2009, 03:56 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by j shizzy wizzy
...... so I took her for a spin and everything seemed normal. when I got back, I pulled the choke out and it killed the engine immediately.
This is totally normal and, in fact, to be expected. The choke opens up an additional circuit on the carbs that allows more fuel to enter the air stream. The "enrichment circuit" it's called because it enRICHens the mixture. If you engine was warmed and you pulled the choke lever it went WAY into the rich zone, enough to kill the engine.

You only need to run the choke long enough for the engine to idle without it. In fact, anything longer than 20-30 seconds is probably too long. I only use the choke at all if the air temps are below 40F. I'm running a tab rich on my pilot screws which would explain that, but even when stock I hardly ever used the the choke except to just get the engine to fire and then pushed it off immediately.

Once again, the choke is only necessary to get the engine running, if it's warm (or warmed up) enough to run without it then you should not be using it.
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Old 04-08-2009, 08:30 AM
  #36  
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thank you for explanation! I wasn't sure on that. so I guess everything's normal then, and i'm just being paranoid. go figure, lol.
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Old 04-08-2009, 08:37 AM
  #37  
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I usually pull the choke out about half way for about 30 seconds or when the second car alarm in my complex starts going off. Ill keep the choke pulled for about 2 blocks, she is good after that.
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Old 04-08-2009, 08:41 AM
  #38  
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I always let my engine warm up at idle for about 5-8 minutes before I take off. You just fire her up and go?
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Old 04-08-2009, 08:53 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by VTRsurfer
Running with the enrichener circuit on for that long is not good. The manual says 30 seconds maximum to avoid washing oil off the cylinder walls.
But of course if its running extremely lean, the enrichener would just be evening out the mixture. You must be running lean.
shizzy, These carbs have no actual choke, it's an enrichener circuit like some crappy Ford carbs had back in the late 70s (Ford's variable venturi carb).

If it won't idle after 30 seconds of "choke", your idle speed may be too low. I usually have to hold the throttle at about 1500+ rpm until the temp gets to over 100. But I have stock exhaust and air filter, and my idle is set at 1400 rpm after warm-up.

After a cold start I let the temp get to at least 135 before riding...gives the pistons time to expand.

Last edited by VTRsurfer; 04-08-2009 at 08:55 AM.
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Old 04-08-2009, 07:34 PM
  #40  
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gotcha, I was told by the previous owner to let it warm to 170. I have done that since purchase. My Idle after warm up is about 1100-1200. I'll kick it up a notch. Took her out for around 160-170 miles today. Still performs flawlessly, accept for that damn second gear. Bike has 2500 miles on it, and every so often I have trouble selecting second. oh well.
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Old 04-08-2009, 08:10 PM
  #41  
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I've owned 3 Hondas, and a "lazy" upshift into 2nd will almost always result in a missed shift. Try shifting more deliberately. If that doesn't work, you may have worn shift dogs.

Mine is usually up to at least 160 before I'm suited up and ready to go, but after a restart later in the ride, I'll take off as long as it's 120 or higher. You just want to get the oil warm and the pistons expanded before getting on it hard.
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Old 04-08-2009, 08:38 PM
  #42  
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define "deliberately"... as in more upward force on the shifter? I understand that there is a "shift kit" I can buy and install that will fix this?
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Old 04-08-2009, 08:50 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by j shizzy wizzy
define "deliberately"... as in more upward force on the shifter? I understand that there is a "shift kit" I can buy and install that will fix this?
Solid upward movement, but don't try to bend the lever. Kind of a follow through movement. The shift to second is longer since you have to go past neutral.

Occasionally I get a missed shift, usually when daydreaming while accelerating slowly, or when the car in front of me takes off then slows down just as I'm shifting to 2nd. I've missed the 4th to 5th shift a handfull of times under hard acceleration...again due to lazy shift. That's called a "false neutral", but just as embarrassing.

Last edited by VTRsurfer; 04-08-2009 at 08:52 PM.
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Old 04-08-2009, 09:19 PM
  #44  
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I have read somewhere on here that it helps to position the shift lever down a notch or two. does this work? have you done it?
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