Trouble with "choke"
05-23-2008, 04:19 PM
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Trouble with "choke"
So ive owned 2 hawks now and this one is being a bit finicky. My last was a '98 with 30k, when i pulled the choke it would start no problem and start warming up, once it got a little warm it would increase rpm and i could turn the "choke" off. My new bike wont run without the choke pulled until its around 130 degrees. The bike also coughs everyonce in a while in mid rpm range. The new bike only has 4k on it. Ibought it from a kid not running and cleaned the carbs and its been running since. Any input is appreciated. I would guess im not supposed to leave this fuel advance **** on for 5-8 minutes like i am.
05-23-2008, 05:54 PM
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So ive owned 2 hawks now and this one is being a bit finicky. My last was a '98 with 30k, when i pulled the choke it would start no problem and start warming up, once it got a little warm it would increase rpm and i could turn the "choke" off. My new bike wont run without the choke pulled until its around 130 degrees. The bike also coughs everyonce in a while in mid rpm range. The new bike only has 4k on it. Ibought it from a kid not running and cleaned the carbs and its been running since. Any input is appreciated. I would guess im not supposed to leave this fuel advance **** on for 5-8 minutes like i am.
05-23-2008, 08:11 PM
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The bike is a 2003, I moved but really the elevation may only be 200-300 feet + difference. What are you guys averaging for choke time? I played with it tonight before i took it out, I shut it off at about 100 degrees and the bike stayed running but idled under 1000 rpm until it hit 120 then went to about 1100 or so. Im just paranoid im sure.
05-23-2008, 08:29 PM
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Mine doesn't like the choke much either. It used to when I lived in VA but that changed when I rejetted for my 500' elevation change in NY and the single sided exhaust. I haven't changed back yet. Maybe I should.
As it is now, it starts fine on the choke and then after about 30 seconds if I slowly push it in the idle goes down and doesn't want to keep running. If I push it all the way in it dies. If I leave it full on idle slowly goes down, it runs rich, and then dies.
Weather is supposed to be nice tomorrow and I just bought some new spark plugs for the ole girl yesterday. Maybe I'll do a little wrenching tomorrow....
As it is now, it starts fine on the choke and then after about 30 seconds if I slowly push it in the idle goes down and doesn't want to keep running. If I push it all the way in it dies. If I leave it full on idle slowly goes down, it runs rich, and then dies.
Weather is supposed to be nice tomorrow and I just bought some new spark plugs for the ole girl yesterday. Maybe I'll do a little wrenching tomorrow....
05-24-2008, 07:19 PM
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Running with the enrichener circuit on for that long is not good. The manual says 30 seconds maximum to avoid washing oil off the cylinder walls.
But of course if its running extremely lean, the enrichener would just be evening out the mixture. You must be running lean.
But of course if its running extremely lean, the enrichener would just be evening out the mixture. You must be running lean.
05-26-2008, 08:39 PM
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My 2001 starts easily cold with the choke and easily hot without it. It's inconsistent though. Some mornings the revs climb only to about 1700 or 1800. At other times, it revs to 2200. I usually shut off the choke before the bike runs cleanly without it and ride it gently to warm it up. The idle doesn't become dependable until the coolant temp hits 74 degrees celsius.
05-27-2008, 08:56 PM
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My '83 BMW RS was so cold blooded it required 5 minutes or more of riding before throttle response was good.
With stock exhaust I give my SH 30 seconds of choke, like the manual says, then I hold the throttle at 1500rpm or better until the temp reads 100. Two more minutes or so to let the pistons expand then I'm off with excellent throttle response.
Of course there are always the occasional SuperHawk Hic-ups, but that's the nature of the beast without injection. My RS had the same condition on occasion when opening the throttle.
With stock exhaust I give my SH 30 seconds of choke, like the manual says, then I hold the throttle at 1500rpm or better until the temp reads 100. Two more minutes or so to let the pistons expand then I'm off with excellent throttle response.
Of course there are always the occasional SuperHawk Hic-ups, but that's the nature of the beast without injection. My RS had the same condition on occasion when opening the throttle.
05-31-2008, 05:22 AM
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Yeah, I don't use the choke at all. The only time in recent years that I've needed to was this spring when I rode in 23° (that's Farenheit) morning temps. I think I'm a little rich on the pilot circuit (obviously) but the bike runs perfect so I think I'll leave it alone.
05-31-2008, 08:51 AM
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Just an update on this. I took some of your advice and decided to check if i was running lean by the old checking the sparkplug trick. They were a light brown and maybe a hint of reddish. The reddish could be due to the fuel additives i had in their (techron). I think im all right, just being paranoid about the choke. Ive found the bike will stay running if i turn it off at about 99 degrees. Its not happy about it but it wont stall. I set my idle to about 1100 hows that compared to you guys?
05-31-2008, 10:26 AM
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When you say it stays running after turning it off, are you saying it is "dieseling", which is running without ignition? Only carbureted engines can diesel and a disconnected vacuum line or a vacuum leak could be the cause.
05-31-2008, 10:39 AM
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05-31-2008, 01:37 PM
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When I bought my bike mine did the same thing and would not hold its position on its own. I thought it was wierd so I did some searching and found a similar person complaining about it on another thread. Saw someone post the pic I attached and it fixed the choke from sliding back in. All I did was tighten it with my hand as snug as I could. Works great now!
Last edited by haknslash; 05-31-2008 at 01:39 PM.
05-31-2008, 06:55 PM
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Wow, do I feel stupid?
Tightened it up, works like a charm. I didn't even have to take the alarm off of it to do this. And it has a motion sensor.
3 years I lived with it like that.
Thank you haknslash.
rob
Tightened it up, works like a charm. I didn't even have to take the alarm off of it to do this. And it has a motion sensor.
3 years I lived with it like that.
Thank you haknslash.
rob
fuzzuki, you probably need to tighten the little rubber grommet kind of piece where the choke is. See attachment.
When I bought my bike mine did the same thing and would not hold its position on its own. I thought it was wierd so I did some searching and found a similar person complaining about it on another thread. Saw someone post the pic I attached and it fixed the choke from sliding back in. All I did was tighten it with my hand as snug as I could. Works great now!
When I bought my bike mine did the same thing and would not hold its position on its own. I thought it was wierd so I did some searching and found a similar person complaining about it on another thread. Saw someone post the pic I attached and it fixed the choke from sliding back in. All I did was tighten it with my hand as snug as I could. Works great now!
04-07-2009, 05:45 PM
#27
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so.... I should only use my choke for 30 seconds?! All this time, I pull the choke to fire her up, then walk away and let the engine warm up to about 160 before I push it back in and take off.... could this do damage??....
One more dumb question... If the hawk is fully warmed up and I pull the choke out, should it kill the engine immediately?
One more dumb question... If the hawk is fully warmed up and I pull the choke out, should it kill the engine immediately?
04-07-2009, 05:53 PM
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I pull the choke fully out and let it run for about 1 minute to a minute and a half.
Push the choke all the way in and wait untill the digital readout on my dash comes on.
It comes on at 35 degrees.
I will leave at that point if I'm in a hurry. Other wise I like to see 50 before I go.
If the bike is fully warm at operating temps and the choke is pulled out, it will start to run funny for at least 4 or 5 minutes before you clog the plugs.
Push the choke all the way in and wait untill the digital readout on my dash comes on.
It comes on at 35 degrees.
I will leave at that point if I'm in a hurry. Other wise I like to see 50 before I go.
If the bike is fully warm at operating temps and the choke is pulled out, it will start to run funny for at least 4 or 5 minutes before you clog the plugs.
04-07-2009, 06:02 PM
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the other day, I pulled the hawk out, And fired her up like normal. I let her idle for 4 or 5 minutes with the choke out (as I always do, but won't anymore.) well when I walked back, the engine was idling at around 2100prm. now I don't remember the bike EVER doing this. so I walked up to the bike and pushed the choke in, and then the idle went back to normal. hmmm...... so I took her for a spin and everything seemed normal. when I got back, I pulled the choke out and it killed the engine immediately. I Just don't remember the engine idle ever spike up so high while warming up. The only thing I have done out of the ordinary is use some seafoam through my previous tank. I don't know what has caused my idle to get out of wack with the choke out.
Last edited by j shizzy wizzy; 04-07-2009 at 06:05 PM.
