These settings sound good? (Carb assistance)
09-18-2007 | 03:47 PM
#1
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Superstock
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 268
From: San Diego
These settings sound good? (Carb assistance)
So I just rebuilt the hawk.
Settings are as follows:
Dynojet kit (drilled slides & shortened springs)
K&N Filter with block off plates
Two Brothers exhaust
180f/185r mains
#45S slow
Needle on 5th clip from top (first up from bottom).
Both screws at 2.25 turns out.
Elevation is pretty much at sea level.
Emissions have been fully removed, PAIR fully disabled.
Carbs haven't been sync'ed yet, but at idle & steady state throttle I get popping and carb backfires half the time.
Should the sync fix this? Orrr should I go a tad richer on the mixture screws?
Settings are as follows:
Dynojet kit (drilled slides & shortened springs)
K&N Filter with block off plates
Two Brothers exhaust
180f/185r mains
#45S slow
Needle on 5th clip from top (first up from bottom).
Both screws at 2.25 turns out.
Elevation is pretty much at sea level.
Emissions have been fully removed, PAIR fully disabled.
Carbs haven't been sync'ed yet, but at idle & steady state throttle I get popping and carb backfires half the time.
Should the sync fix this? Orrr should I go a tad richer on the mixture screws?
Last edited by Anto; 09-18-2007 at 05:10 PM.
09-18-2007 | 06:14 PM
#3
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 387
Depends on how much throttle you are giving it when it goes flat and how it behaves when it's going flat. If it's 3-5K andjust off idle then maybe...if it's flat at 1/3 to 3/4 throttle then it's needle/clip position. Does it go heavy/boggy flat or light/airy flat?
09-18-2007 | 11:13 PM
#4
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MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,942
From: Lake View Terrace, CA
I ran a Dynojet kit back in '98-'99 and I don't remember the needles being pulled up that high. I think you were supposed to start with the clip one down from the top not one up from the bottom. With the needles up that high you should be running extremly rich.
09-19-2007 | 12:03 AM
#5
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From: San Diego
I'm going to go for the .5 turns out & see what i'm at.
The bogging is light/airy flat, lean condition indeed.
09-19-2007 | 10:50 PM
#7
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From: San Diego
I'm pretty sure slipon. I just changed to a high mount.
The bike pulls well when I give it full throttle, but at low end and midrange, it sputters, hesitates and kicks. I forgot to add that I had installed a rear emu tube in the front, which i'm going to remove and replace with the correct front emu tube.
If that doesn't yield good results, i'm going to move the needles down another notch, to full rich.
The previous owner ran this on the 6th clip with good results, however he didn't seal the airbox correctly. I went back & resealed everything.
Current settings are listed up top, but the carbs have been sync'ed and the screws are at 2.5 out.
What I don't get is why the carbs are sputtering and popping SO much. I correctly removed emissions, diabled PAIR and sync'ed the carbs, and it's still popping like crazy. Lean condition?
BTW, is it alright to merge the two sync vacuum lines into a y fitting and cap that off? Or should I keep them capped seperately?
The bike pulls well when I give it full throttle, but at low end and midrange, it sputters, hesitates and kicks. I forgot to add that I had installed a rear emu tube in the front, which i'm going to remove and replace with the correct front emu tube.
If that doesn't yield good results, i'm going to move the needles down another notch, to full rich.
The previous owner ran this on the 6th clip with good results, however he didn't seal the airbox correctly. I went back & resealed everything.
Current settings are listed up top, but the carbs have been sync'ed and the screws are at 2.5 out.
What I don't get is why the carbs are sputtering and popping SO much. I correctly removed emissions, diabled PAIR and sync'ed the carbs, and it's still popping like crazy. Lean condition?
BTW, is it alright to merge the two sync vacuum lines into a y fitting and cap that off? Or should I keep them capped seperately?
Last edited by Anto; 09-19-2007 at 10:54 PM.
09-20-2007 | 10:56 PM
#8
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 277
I'm pretty sure slipon. I just changed to a high mount.
The bike pulls well when I give it full throttle, but at low end and midrange, it sputters, hesitates and kicks. I forgot to add that I had installed a rear emu tube in the front, which i'm going to remove and replace with the correct front emu tube.
If that doesn't yield good results, i'm going to move the needles down another notch, to full rich.
The previous owner ran this on the 6th clip with good results, however he didn't seal the airbox correctly. I went back & resealed everything.
Current settings are listed up top, but the carbs have been sync'ed and the screws are at 2.5 out.
What I don't get is why the carbs are sputtering and popping SO much. I correctly removed emissions, diabled PAIR and sync'ed the carbs, and it's still popping like crazy. Lean condition?
BTW, is it alright to merge the two sync vacuum lines into a y fitting and cap that off? Or should I keep them capped seperately?
The bike pulls well when I give it full throttle, but at low end and midrange, it sputters, hesitates and kicks. I forgot to add that I had installed a rear emu tube in the front, which i'm going to remove and replace with the correct front emu tube.
If that doesn't yield good results, i'm going to move the needles down another notch, to full rich.
The previous owner ran this on the 6th clip with good results, however he didn't seal the airbox correctly. I went back & resealed everything.
Current settings are listed up top, but the carbs have been sync'ed and the screws are at 2.5 out.
What I don't get is why the carbs are sputtering and popping SO much. I correctly removed emissions, diabled PAIR and sync'ed the carbs, and it's still popping like crazy. Lean condition?
BTW, is it alright to merge the two sync vacuum lines into a y fitting and cap that off? Or should I keep them capped seperately?
09-21-2007 | 12:13 AM
#9
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 105,287
From: Fulton, MO
NO, it is NOT okay to merge the two vacuum lines. The front should be plugged with the small allen screw. The rear should have a stock fitting which holds a line that goes to the REAR nipple on the petcock.
09-21-2007 | 02:52 AM
#10
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 268
From: San Diego
PAIR disablement consisted of the capping of the open airbox holes, the entire system removed, the carb tubes capped & and the two holes on the valve cover capped off with a rubber cap.
For the carb sync, the previous owner had installed a rear brass nipple fitting on the front cylinder, so I just covered it with a rubber cap.
I removed the Y fitting, the rear carb sync line is going to the rear of the petcock.
I'm going to tear into the carbs again tommorow, i'll post status.
For the carb sync, the previous owner had installed a rear brass nipple fitting on the front cylinder, so I just covered it with a rubber cap.
I removed the Y fitting, the rear carb sync line is going to the rear of the petcock.
I'm going to tear into the carbs again tommorow, i'll post status.
10-03-2007 | 11:44 PM
#11
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 268
From: San Diego
Alright.
To recap:
Moved the carbs to 2.25 turns out, needle on 5th clip
The bike runs 100% better with the choke pulled out.
Planning to enrichen needles another notch (full rich).
I find this odd, as I haven't heard of anyone running full rich on the hawk on a dynojet kit..
To recap:
Moved the carbs to 2.25 turns out, needle on 5th clip
The bike runs 100% better with the choke pulled out.
Planning to enrichen needles another notch (full rich).
I find this odd, as I haven't heard of anyone running full rich on the hawk on a dynojet kit..
10-05-2007 | 12:05 PM
#14
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Superstock
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 277
Hi Anto, from what i understand w/re-jet (Fac-pro 50) i set them at 4th notch down (from tip) mixture screw out almost 3 turn, K-N air filter, i dont plug cams cover breather hoses (the 2 big one that run into a air box) in your case it seems like you need to enrich your mix ture screw to 3 full turn and stay at 5th and try see how it work for you. Good luck, before i completed 2nd time re-jet my dyno run at 105 hp and 65 hb.
10-05-2007 | 05:33 PM
#15
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Posts: 1,015
10-07-2007 | 05:56 AM
#16
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Squid
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 45
From: Newcastle, Australia
48 pilots could help. I would go to the 6th clip first. Its happening around 3000rpm not idle. The slides start raising as soon as you blip the throttle. Like 1/8 throttle!
I found the DJ needle lean on clip 5.
Pull the tank off and the air box. (with engine warm). Start it and watch the slides they start opening immediately. It will pop with no filter so give it some choke. While ur at it grab a piece of plastic flexible hose about 2 inch round. Put it to each carb and listen. You will hear which cylinder is pulling more air. You can roughly sync ur carbs this way b4 fine tuning with gauges.
Try clip 6. I think u will find 45 pilots good with 2.5 turns. Just make sure it doesnt pop on overun otherwise run 48s.
Cheers
Joel
I found the DJ needle lean on clip 5.
Pull the tank off and the air box. (with engine warm). Start it and watch the slides they start opening immediately. It will pop with no filter so give it some choke. While ur at it grab a piece of plastic flexible hose about 2 inch round. Put it to each carb and listen. You will hear which cylinder is pulling more air. You can roughly sync ur carbs this way b4 fine tuning with gauges.
Try clip 6. I think u will find 45 pilots good with 2.5 turns. Just make sure it doesnt pop on overun otherwise run 48s.
Cheers
Joel
10-21-2007 | 09:09 PM
#17
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 268
From: San Diego
Alright.
Installed #48 Pilots, bike runs much better compared to what it ran like before.
A/F Screws are 2.25 turns out, needles on 6th clip. Still 180f 185r. TPS is set at ~650.
The bike still jerks at steady state throttle on the freeway! There is jerking & a loss of power, then it pulls again, then it cuts out again. I have to continuously accel/decel to keep speed.
I also hear some popping at high RPM on decel, are the mains STILL too lean? Should I bump it up to 185f 188r?
Installed #48 Pilots, bike runs much better compared to what it ran like before.
A/F Screws are 2.25 turns out, needles on 6th clip. Still 180f 185r. TPS is set at ~650.
The bike still jerks at steady state throttle on the freeway! There is jerking & a loss of power, then it pulls again, then it cuts out again. I have to continuously accel/decel to keep speed.
I also hear some popping at high RPM on decel, are the mains STILL too lean? Should I bump it up to 185f 188r?
10-22-2007 | 12:30 AM
#18
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SuperBike
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,804
From: Atlanta, GA
The Dynojet instruction sheet for this kit recommends 185f/190r and needle clip on the 5th notch as a starting point for a VTR with a slipon and a K&N filter. You're getting close to that now.
The K&N filter is really a lot less restrictive than the stocker and needs much larger jets--much larger than you think it will. I have one and my bike ran so poorly with it that I took it out until I can devote more time to getting it sorted out.
The K&N filter is really a lot less restrictive than the stocker and needs much larger jets--much larger than you think it will. I have one and my bike ran so poorly with it that I took it out until I can devote more time to getting it sorted out.
10-25-2007 | 04:27 PM
#19
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Superstock
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 268
From: San Diego
SEXY
Got around to changing some settings.
185f 188r
#48 slow
Dynojet on 5th clip
Screws 2.5 turns out.
ART high mounts, K&N Filter
Bike PUSHES.
Initially I had it on 2.25 turns out, but had some excessive popping on overrun 70% of the time.
Increased the screws to 2.5 out and the frequency of the popping went down. It still pops on overrun, just not as much. I'm sure it'd be solved with a 190r, but i'm satisfied with my current settings.
Thanks guys!!
Got around to changing some settings.
185f 188r
#48 slow
Dynojet on 5th clip
Screws 2.5 turns out.
ART high mounts, K&N Filter
Bike PUSHES.
Initially I had it on 2.25 turns out, but had some excessive popping on overrun 70% of the time.
Increased the screws to 2.5 out and the frequency of the popping went down. It still pops on overrun, just not as much. I'm sure it'd be solved with a 190r, but i'm satisfied with my current settings.
Thanks guys!!
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