Stator help
05-17-2010 | 11:21 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,216
From: Westerly, RI
Stator help
Ok, so here's what happened.
I rode the bike on saturday night, about 60 miles from home. Started every time I asked it to, no hesitation.
Sunday rolls around, it won't start. Put it on the charger, rode it about 25 miles, went to buy a new cell phone, come out about 20 minutes later, starts right up. Ride about 2 miles down the road, get gas, won't start. So I bump start it and take it home.
When i get home, here's what I get
12.38 volts at battery
12.08 at battery at idle
12.26 at 5K RPM
Check the stator:
not shorts
6-8 Ohms when checking resistance between poles, troubleshooting says .5-2 Ohms
So am I correct in thinkning that it's the stator?
Little help from the electrical gurus please.
I rode the bike on saturday night, about 60 miles from home. Started every time I asked it to, no hesitation.
Sunday rolls around, it won't start. Put it on the charger, rode it about 25 miles, went to buy a new cell phone, come out about 20 minutes later, starts right up. Ride about 2 miles down the road, get gas, won't start. So I bump start it and take it home.
When i get home, here's what I get
12.38 volts at battery
12.08 at battery at idle
12.26 at 5K RPM
Check the stator:
not shorts
6-8 Ohms when checking resistance between poles, troubleshooting says .5-2 Ohms
So am I correct in thinkning that it's the stator?
Little help from the electrical gurus please.
05-17-2010 | 11:36 AM
#2
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,132
From: Phoenix, AZ
Maybe, but if there is no short to ground, my guess is that the stator is probably ok. That is a bit high, but I don't know that it is high enough to be non functional. It is more a matter of the resistances being close to each other than a specific amount. http://www.tiny-media.org/motovoltage/tech.htm
I would lean more to the R/R being bad.
I would lean more to the R/R being bad.
05-17-2010 | 11:59 AM
#4
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,109
From: Skurup, Sweden
Well, optimally the stator should be that low... But as long as the resistance is uniform ie 1-2 ohm difference from pole to pole it wouldn't matter if it's 20 ohm... The difference would still only be 2-3V at the top end... I think mine is 8-9 ohm... And working fine...
The culprit is most likely the R/R... Measure that one up to see if the diodes in there are blocking completely they way they are supposed to... If not you are likely only charging on 2 out of three phases (consistent with your voltage)
And while you are at it replacing the R/R (the likely result of this) take the battery out of the bike, give it a full charge and then have it load tested... Usually when the R/R goes the battery goes in a couple of months... And since you have by then mistreated the "new" R/R... Well... You know the rest of the story I think...
The culprit is most likely the R/R... Measure that one up to see if the diodes in there are blocking completely they way they are supposed to... If not you are likely only charging on 2 out of three phases (consistent with your voltage)
And while you are at it replacing the R/R (the likely result of this) take the battery out of the bike, give it a full charge and then have it load tested... Usually when the R/R goes the battery goes in a couple of months... And since you have by then mistreated the "new" R/R... Well... You know the rest of the story I think...
05-17-2010 | 12:01 PM
#5
Destructive Tester
Superstock
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 263
From: N.E. oHIo
I would check your Reg/Rect. Much cheeper than a stator!!
The stator is likely OK, the slightly higher than spec Ohm readings may just be your meter.
Rex
05-17-2010 | 04:50 PM
#7
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,216
From: Westerly, RI
Well, it was a new R/R from Motovoltage last year.
I just pulled the connectors from the R/R that go into the stator connectors. Between two of the wires, I get a beep. This is the diode passing voltage by, right?
I just pulled the connectors from the R/R that go into the stator connectors. Between two of the wires, I get a beep. This is the diode passing voltage by, right?
05-27-2010 | 09:02 AM
#8
Member
Squid
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 62
From: Minneapolis, MN
I just ran into the same issue you were having... Checked the stator as per the service manual. My resistance read .7 ohms and there is no continuity between posts and my volts @ battery, idle, and 5k were very similar to what yours read. So I half to assume it's the R/R... so I've got one on the way. May I suggest if you haven't replaced it yet get one with fins to better disperse the heat
05-27-2010 | 09:33 AM
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,216
From: Westerly, RI
That's a good suggestion.
I have a warranty replacement Motovoltage R/R on the way.
Turns out that I was testing the stator too soon. It will read irregular Ohm readings shortly after being shut down.
So I went to the R/R. I was able to forward bias 2 of the 3 phases. I received OL on all 3. It's that 1 diode that wouldn't forward bias that was bad. I was getting 11.4 or so volts from the R/R. Not nearly enough to maintain the electrical system and charge the battery.
In the meantime, I have wired up a Kawasaki ZX-6R R/R for temporary use until the Motovoltage one gets here. I installed the ZX-6R R/R and I was getting 14.5V at the battery at idle and about the same at 4-5K RPM.
Luckily, I caught this early, didn't fry the battery or pop the main fuse.
I will be getting a stock R/R as a back-up. Make a wiring harness for it, so that all I have to do is plug it into the stator connectors and connect it to the battery. Keep it all on the bike, won't be stuck again because of a failed R/R.
I have a warranty replacement Motovoltage R/R on the way.
Turns out that I was testing the stator too soon. It will read irregular Ohm readings shortly after being shut down.
So I went to the R/R. I was able to forward bias 2 of the 3 phases. I received OL on all 3. It's that 1 diode that wouldn't forward bias that was bad. I was getting 11.4 or so volts from the R/R. Not nearly enough to maintain the electrical system and charge the battery.
In the meantime, I have wired up a Kawasaki ZX-6R R/R for temporary use until the Motovoltage one gets here. I installed the ZX-6R R/R and I was getting 14.5V at the battery at idle and about the same at 4-5K RPM.
Luckily, I caught this early, didn't fry the battery or pop the main fuse.
I will be getting a stock R/R as a back-up. Make a wiring harness for it, so that all I have to do is plug it into the stator connectors and connect it to the battery. Keep it all on the bike, won't be stuck again because of a failed R/R.
05-27-2010 | 10:39 AM
#10
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 805
From: Delmar NY
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