Stalling issue
#1
Stalling issue
My bike has developed a new stalling issue. It is good for at least one stall a day.
The issue has developed After shimming the carbs, manual CCT's, carb sync, and idle set to 1200.
I have the PAIR mod, TPS mod, and EVAP removed all done. It usually happens when stopped. The idle will just drop from 1200 to about 800 and then stall out.
Thoughts?
The issue has developed After shimming the carbs, manual CCT's, carb sync, and idle set to 1200.
I have the PAIR mod, TPS mod, and EVAP removed all done. It usually happens when stopped. The idle will just drop from 1200 to about 800 and then stall out.
Thoughts?
#4
Ok. I guess I never had it happen that much to me before shimming and doing the baffles. It does sound like a big thumper at the stop lights now though. Chopper guys even look! haha
#7
Um, a properly jetted SH does not stall. It is still a Honda. More likely you didnt connect all the plumbing to the airbox correctly, or one of you diaphragms is not seated.
Kinda suprised all you guys are happy to ride around with faultering bikes. Hope that bus behind you at the light doesnt just punch it when the light turns green.
Kinda suprised all you guys are happy to ride around with faultering bikes. Hope that bus behind you at the light doesnt just punch it when the light turns green.
#8
+1 on it not being normal...the only time mine acts like that is if I have one or both idle screws set wrong, or when the carbs were out of sync.
I've had the damn carbs off probably 7 times in the last few months trying to get the new engine running correctly with the advancer and the port work...pretty much have it now, just a little rich in the mid range (I'm running double long stacks).
I've had the damn carbs off probably 7 times in the last few months trying to get the new engine running correctly with the advancer and the port work...pretty much have it now, just a little rich in the mid range (I'm running double long stacks).
#10
If the engine is fueling correctly, you should be able to drop the idle speed down to 800 and it would be steady and never falter. This low of an idle may not push enough oil through the engine, but it is one of the tests that my bike must pass before calling it good.
#11
Thanks!
I may just stop by and pay you a visit then. I still have an occasional carb fart between 3-4K but it seems to only happen between 3-4K. At 4K it seems to be running very smooth and even around 2.5k in low speeds it seem to be running smooth. I have tried to adjust the jets some more but it seem like it still does not want to cure it all the way. Still get some pop on decel, and now this random stalling thing.
Even when it does stall, it will be at 1200 idleing fine then all of a sudden drop to close to 500 and cut off. I start it back up (and need to use some throttle) and then it will idle all day! It is just after coming from riding a few miles and then stopping??
#12
+1 on it not being normal...the only time mine acts like that is if I have one or both idle screws set wrong, or when the carbs were out of sync.
I've had the damn carbs off probably 7 times in the last few months trying to get the new engine running correctly with the advancer and the port work...pretty much have it now, just a little rich in the mid range (I'm running double long stacks).
I've had the damn carbs off probably 7 times in the last few months trying to get the new engine running correctly with the advancer and the port work...pretty much have it now, just a little rich in the mid range (I'm running double long stacks).
#13
Adjust your mixture screws out to like 2 turns, maybe 1.75 since you have stock bafflectomized cans with no aftermarket filter. Then do another carb sync. Sync at idle and at 3000 rpm, then adjust midway between, as they are usually different at the two engine speeds. This should cure the clunk/die problem. If it continues then take a look at your idle jets and make sure they are spotless.
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calitoz
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05-06-2007 09:28 PM