No particular reason other than if I can do it myself, why not, and I don't have to bother finding a welder, which to be honest, I don't know who is good or not in this area. Plus depending on if Im dearing enough, I could probably drill/rivet nut/install without touching the bike, where I'm either dropping it off to someone, or taking the swingarm off if they refuse to weld it still on the bike.

As for the garden hose... not a bad idea... unfortunalty my stand (LP brand) has a very flat "paddle" and not a tube like lug... I may be able ot find a fat hose at HD though...

J.

 

You still have to very slightly counter bore or otherwise relieve the back of the spool to clear the rivnut head. Below is a pick of my install (posted in a similar thread before). If you note, the center of the hole for the rivnut is 25mm from the bottom of the SA, and 107mm from its end but use your own discretion. Be sure to drill a pilot hole, then work up in bit size to exactly the recommended rivnut hole size and if necessary use a fine rat-tail file to open it up if you don’t have the exact bit diameter. Too tight is better than too loose.

I’d jump up to the 8mm spools, I used 6mm because it was closest to ¼” but if I was to do it over I’d even go up to .325” (a bit over 8mm) and drill out the spools to fit.

http://www.pit-bull.com/Merchant2/me...ode=spool_kits

Here are the rivnuts I’d get… http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...ex?sku=0125715

I think the grip range is right

 

Ok, I'm getting fed up with my rear stand slipping... So I was thinking of doing this..

Unfortunately I can't find the tools & rivnuts... All online providers are US based and refuse to deal with international customers (great service huh?)

Local souces are limited to 1000+ packages... Also a tool for 8mm and above are hard to find and ridiculously expensive...

The only local source I have found stocks only aluminium rivnuts, so my question is simple...

Will this work with a 6mm alu rivnut or would that be a bad idea??? It's a basic alu rivnut without any ridges...

 

Have you checked with Fastenal.com? The Pitbull 6mm with work or drill them out for 1/4" bolts. Be sure to counterbore the back of the spool to provide a hair of clearance for the head of the rivnut.

http://fastenal.com/

 

Yeah... they basicly need me to be a large company even to consider it...
Including credit check and loads of paperwork...

 

As I'm not used to calculating material strengths and such... I'm more at home with curcuits...

The way I see it the amount of material is tha same, and in both cases the bolt is in there holding it all rigid and making a "solid piece" ie no open holes...

So I see no reason that using an aluminium rivnut would be a bad idea... but again... not my field of knowledge...

 

Well, I'm willing the buy what you need here and ship it to you; if you check out shipping regs and send me the money. This is the tool I used with the 1/4" ribbed steel rivnuts.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94100

$17 just don't squeeze too hard or you'll bend the threaded mandrel rod but otherwise worked great. I used these rivnuts

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...ex?sku=0125677

and drilled slightly undersize to the prescibed .3906" OD, then used a fine rat tail file while checking for a very snug fit. Again, I drilled out to 1/4" ID and counterbored (releaved) the back of the Pittbull 6mm spools to clear the rivnut heads.

http://www.pit-bull.com/Merchant2/me...ode=spool_kits

So far, tight as a drum but you have to watch out for the spools hitting your cans depending on what your running.

 

That could be an option... I'm really gratefull for the offer...

I'll check on shipping and such... Right now I need to go to sleep though... I'll post again tomorrow...

 

I have seen many bikes such as F4s and Super Hawks come into the shop with a twisted hole in the swingarm where a rivnut used to be. It's not whether the nut or swingarm is strong enough, it is the way that the forces are applied. The only way the rivnut would work is if you relieved the spool so that it does not contact the rivnut, but contacts the swingarm directly. Otherwise you are putting all that pressure on a rivet.

and as far as using a 5/16" rod through the axle, not only can you not work on the rear wheel but the rod would bend easily since it is not supported properly. The reason 6mm spools work is that the stresses on the bolt are tension, not shear and the spool is against the mounting surface. see automotive wheel studs for an example.

 

Well... I did say it wasn't my field of expertise... But I did my stint of material science and applied forces at uni...

So I'm well aware of the difference, and will countersink the spools... If it is touching or not isn't that important, the important part is the you have the spool flush against the wall of the swingarm with tension to the bolt, that way supporting it and countering the "twisting" that occurs if it can bend upwards with the bolt as leverage...

The pin through the wheel actually works, but as you say it has the be properly supported at each end, as close to the spool as possible...
I tried a threaded rod with a filed down nut in the thick end... The obvious downside is when removing the wheel...

 

skokievtr: I looked around and found a tool localy with fittings for both metric and inches, about the same price, that should work well for me when using the alu rivnuts for all other applications... So I'm planning on buying that... Saves a lot on shipping...

But I would be eternally grateful if you could buy and send me the rivnuts from fastenal... But since I have 6mm spools and all things on this side of the pond tends to be metric, I think I'll prefer to use such rivnuts... Otherwise I'll just forget myself...

These should be very similar as the ones you suggested, but with metric threading... http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...ex?sku=0125713

Low profile head to make it easy to countersink the spools and all...

Since I would be working with a limited supply here, and I'm pretty sure I can find other uses for such, I think 20 pieces would be a good number, and they are small enough to go just put them in a USPS Priority Mail International Flat-Rate envelope at $11.35 wich ironicly is about the price of the rivnuts...

As far as I can figure there is a form to fill out (It's the postal office, why wouldn't there be a form?) ... but other than that straight forward...

I'm guessing here but... $0.41*20 + $11.35 + whatever fastenals shipping fee is, plus my gratitude would probably come to about $30 or soo...

 

How about going to the local hardware store and getting some 2-step epoxy and using that to secure ("secure" lol) something to the underside of the swingarm? The idea would not be to use this item to support the weight of the bike so much as it would be to simply stop the bike from sliding off the stand.

Just a thought .....

 

Yes and no.

I agree with what you say, and it "works great on paper", but the reality is that there is a guy "up here" (or at least used to be) that made spools that fit inside each end of the axle. He used aluminum. I have a set. They're awesome! They don't bend of show any signs or fault.

Unfortunately they also mean you can't remove the rear wheel if you need to AND they ummm, they uhhhh ..... you gotta remember to remove them before you go riding.



But they worked great when he used to make them!

 

Yeah, spools that go into the axle are great as long as you don't need to remove the wheel which is basically a chain lubing stand which is fine, but not if you want to put a tire on, replace a sprocket, wheel bearing, etc.

On race bikes where spool mounts get ripped off all the time in crashes, some people get sick of welding them back on and just weld a nub on the bottom so the stand won't slip and it works great.

another option is to make something similar to the Gilles Tooling chain adjusters/lifters but without the adjusters.

 

It is very interesting and I was having same issue.
I am waiting order T-Rex frame slider unless decent way to mount spool slider.

Does anybody here can post pic of "WELDED" spool on swingarm?
Did you welded bolt on AL swingarm? I appreciate detail of your experience. Also Pros and Cons.

Thanks

 

I too am very interested in adding spools to my Superhawk but am not 100% sure of the best way to go about it. So far, it seems that welding some nuts to the bottom of the swing arm is the best way to go.

 

I have T-Rex swing arm slider spools that I choose to Rivnut on they have been in use now for about 8 months and I put the bike on the stand every time im done with it for the day. I have not had any problems with them falling out, I did choose to go with a 3/8 or 8mm bolt to hold them in place.