Actually, no. The cost for the conversion (set length) is $175, the expected cost for the adjustable ride height version is $225-250. The RaceTech Gold Valve is another $170 on top of that, if desired. A new spring is an additional $85, which you would need because the CBR spring is too light.

It's still going to be several weeks before the adjustable ride height version is ready. I won't know the actual cost until that time. A conversion to a set length is available right now. I hope this helps clear things up!

 

Half a grand is pricey, $50 shock + $250 adjust. ride height +$170 RT valve +$85 spring = $555. Will this give you the same performance as the Penske, Fox and Ohlins rear shock?
This is the last real modification I need to do to my bike, but in light of the current economic environment half a grand is a bit expensive. In the same token, I know that you cannot do this and lose money or break even. This group is a frugal one, finding ways to modify the SH inexpensively as possible.
Have you thought about package pricing some of the modifications to the F4/F4i shock for use on the SH, or am I way ahead of myself on this?

 

Yeah, it can add up pretty quickly. Trying to compare it to other shocks is a little difficult, but I will say that you would be hard-pressed to tell the difference on the street. With these modifications you would have something that works at least as well as a Fox Twin Clicker and probably better than a Works shock. Properly setup I'd put a RaceTech valved shock up against a Penske or Ohlins. In my opinion, you pay a lot for the name with those (you also pay for quality components, that is true).

Something that might help - If you keep a watch out on eBay you can get a CBR shock for $20 including shipping (they are out there all of the time in fact). I'm also trying to get the modification cost down to $225 if I can. That brings it down to around $500. Your other options at that price range? A Hagon, which are barely stock replacement units. Anything with comparable performance would be $900+. When you look at it that way, you are really getting a lot for your money. Take out the Gold Valve and you have a nice little upgrade for not very much. Many of us are frugal, but how many of us are running around with $1000 exhaust systems? Aftermarket exhausts start at around $600 and I'd argue a properly setup shock provides more of a performance gain.

Sure, not everyone has that kind of dough, I totally understand that. There are plenty of people out there who think we are "rich" simply because we own a car AND a motorcycle. It's kind of relative I think.

 

Well, by my calculations I should have a F4i shock worked and delivered to me at less than $400... No length mods as I'm doing that myself...

And that's a whole lot less than the $1500 an Öhlins costs over the counter around here... And still substantially less than the $1300 or so it would cost me once customs and such are taken care of if I'm buying from the US...

 

got mine this weekend, bought her on fleabay shock 4.99 shipping 12.00

Is that with a stiffer spring fitted?

 

Jamie; I emailed you but might have got the addy wrong. I was wondering what your background is on suspension. My mechanic (& cynic) buddy warned me against paying "some guy with a nitrogen can" to do work on my suspension. I am half an inch from buying a cbr shock to send you. Thanks...SJ

 

Jamie:

Any update on your progress with the rear shock conversion?

 

Yeah, I agree that you should be careful about that. I've been doing shock performance modifications for years. I've been doing shock conversions like what we are discussing here for the past couple of years and to date have converted about 200 shocks. Hopefully by now I know what I am doing!


I'm pretty busy with fixed length conversions right now so I haven't had much time to focus on the adjustable ride height version. I made a little progress this week. If I don't get something ready before the spring rush (it's already started) then I probably won't have it done until mid summer.

 

Any visual images you can share?

 

Oii... You sumabitches don't get him sidetracked...

He has my shock there to work on (as well as a few more I imagine)

So don't go giving him ideas...

 

I don't have any of the VTR conversion handy. Here are a couple that I already have posted to my server:

http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/...hock_hose1.jpg
http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/...00_f4rear1.jpg

These have the clevis type lower end. Here is one with the eye style like what would be used on the VTR, just a lot longer. It's an older design, the current one looks a little nicer I think. I'll try to get some better pictures this weekend of the shock I have in the queue:

http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/...abre_shock.JPG

 

That looks nice enough like that I think... Just don't go doing any of it to mine... I want to play myself...

 

Very nice work! I look forward to the next slew of pictures this weekend.

One other question, which F4/F4i shock should I look for or is there a particular year(s) better than another for a big, not fat, guy?

 

All F4 and F4i shocks are the same. Some had a red spring and some yellow but the rate is the same. The internals are identical for all F4/i shocks. Thanks!

 

Here are some pictures of a shock with a lower clevis modification that is nearly identical to the CBR->VTR conversion. This happens to be a CBR929 shock but the modification is the same for the CBR600F4/i shocks. This is the modification that I've previously referred to as the set length version. Feel free to PM me with any questions.

 

Very nice work Jamie.

 

Sexy! I love billet!

 

Jamie any new pictures since your 2/16 post?

 

Nah, I've been too busy to think about it. The next time I do a VTR conversion I'll be sure to take a few pictures.

 

Sorry guys...

It seems I mucked up Jamie's chances of taking pic's on my shock...
This because I didn't want any permanent changes in length... The reason being I'm going to match it up to a RC-51 SP2 swingarm and need it to be adjustable for tuning that...

But I can tell you this much... It looks absolutely beautiful... Quick and easy transaction... Stellar work by Jamie...

If only the farking snow would go away so I can test ride it...

 

No problem, I've got a couple of more in process right now. Once they are ready I'll get some pictures of them. I'm really backed up which is the reason for the delay.

 

Jamie:

Any updates?

 

A small update and a development idea...

As for the update, I have now been using the shock Jamie worked over for me with the stock swingarm for a few days and with my swapped in RC51/SP2 swingarm for little over a week, mainly tweaking settings... And as my first review was a rave... This is even better... Dammit... It's brilliant, Jamie you are a genius...

So for the idea... I needed the option to adjust the rear ride height to compensate for the longer swingarm (I didn't want to re-weld the subframe as hawkter did) So I have been talking about ideas to make that adjustable mount...

I tried several ideas and all of them ended up being to darned impractical and bulky once I built them, and also having to little adjustment in either of the two directions... So after several tries I just made my own variation on the mount Honda used on the track kitted SP2's that where sold as race only bikes...

I drilled the hole in the frame for an M14 bolt (stock is 10mm) and put one locknut on either side of the frame, with a custom lower clevis... This allows easy adjustment, just loosen the nuts slightly and thread them a few millimeters up or down and lock them in place... All I need is a rear stand and to lift the rear of the tank to get access, it's a bit of a chore raising it with the weight of the bike still on, but works satisfactory...

The lower clevis is essentially a copy of the original, with longer "legs"... I choose to drill a hole for threading an M14 in the top, spot weld a M14 nut (not locknut) to the underside and threading the material... And then add a second "wall" underneath the nut, strengthening the construction and providing a stop for the a threaded rod... Then I just stick a threaded rod of the correct length in there... The reason for this instead of a permanently welded in bolt is that now I can swap the lenght if I need... Also welding a bolt on the upper or lower edge of the clevis would have made it wounerable to stress in either direction, the double walls put the welds in the right place for minimal stress...

With the F4/F4i shock being 40mm shorter than the OEM shock and this new clevis building about 20mm (width of nut and extra material) the nut under the frame taking up 10mm you potentially can adjust this to 10mm lower than stock at the shock which translates to a lot more at the wheel... And depending on the lenght of the treaded rod you can effectively lengthen it infinitely... I choose to allow up to 10mm higher than stock, since then the thread doesn't interfere with the tank mount... You can easily add height, but then you cant lower it without swapping the rod or grinding it off...

Unfortunately I have no pics... I was to pre-occupied making it work... But I will take some if anybody want's me too...

 

Sounds interesting.. would that solution work with a stock swingarm? It may be a "better" solution to the F4i length than extending the shock.

 

Yep, It would most definitely work with a stock swingarm... The only part you actually modify is drilling a larger hole in the frame under the saddle, and if you want for some reason to return to stock using a M14 bolt instead of an M10 with the stock shock is easy...

BTW Jamie... If you want to use the idea or modify it, feel free... The custom machined alu parts are beautiful, but combining this with a "worked" shock makes a product that can give Ohlins/Penske a run for their money...

 

I don't know about all that! I'm glad it's working out well for you. I've had really good luck revalving the stock shocks, and doing the same to a CBR shock is just that much better.


Thanks man, I'll look into it. Any pictures?

I've already got a prototype made of an adjustable ride height version. It's sweet - I really like how it turned out. The problem is that it's a little more costly than I was hoping for. I'm still working that part out, but I might need to make some changes to the design to bring the cost down to where I'd like it to be. I have been targetting $200 for the whole thing (conversion+adjustable ride height) and it's not there yet.

 

I'm sure I'm not alone in waiting for that adjustable ride height version. I'm ready to order when your there.

 

Yeah, I know. I was actually working on it some over the weekend. If time was money I'd still be broke. Hopefully something will start to materialize soon.

 

Pics would be appreciated, when/if you get a chance.

 

Ok after a few tries to take pictures on the bike I gave that up... I'll do that later when I have to disassemble it the next time...

You will have to make do with one of my "thinking sketches" for now...