Here is the issue. A week ago we cracked open my 2000 SH with 38K replaced the CCT’S and went with the A.P.E. Manual’s, and adjusted the TPS. The reassembly went fantastic no issues we were done in about 5 hours and I was back on the road. The bike felt new, massive amounts of renewed power and fun to ride. Saturday my daughter knocked over my bike by accident, she is ok a little scared but no harm to her, on the other hand the bike suffered a little crack on the right side faring and now im having a “staying alive “issue. The bike was running rough, I went ahead and pulled the plugs and replaced them, still running rough after plug replacement, now the bike wont stay running, I decided to look deeper into why, maybe a snapped vacuum line or something. I ended up pulling off the carbs cleaning them and reassembled the top end several times today to the same result. The rear cylinder chugs and sounds like a steam locomotive, when I gently cover the carb opening for the rear the bike dies. All my vacuum lines are correct, all the other hoses are in their proper space.. any ideas..??

 

have you checked to see if the carbs are seated correctly.
might want to check your exhaust for the rear.
check to see if the tps plug came undone or spliced some where.
make sure coil is still plugged into the loom.
check the resistance on the coil.
check the vacuum line for the petcock.
beyond that stuff,im not sure what i would check.maybe make sure for some odd reason,the cam didnt skip a tooth.
hope this helps out a little bit.

 

Word, yeah just looked, the front and rear are seated tight and both of the card sliders return at the same pace without and interference. thank you SAIGE. Im soooo confused with this one.. she was running just fine, maybe when she was on her side some crap got dislodged and is sitting in the float bowl or jet?

 

it is very possible,besides all the stuff i put down to look for,im just a little lost.
could it have come out of sync,or maybe the spring and screw fell out for the sync side of the carb.hope that makes sense lol.
check your choke cable too,if it broke,it could be stuck in or pulled to far out,which will cause it too stumble and want too shut down.

 

try not to break the plastic nut,be very carefull,but it could have got pulled and just is stuck in a weird position.flop it around a bit,but becarefull,that little nut is a pain in the *** if it breaks.

 

Im sorry, something else I forgot to mention. I removed the choke cable all together trying to eliminate the issues, I purchased 2 10mm fine thread screws (10x1) removed the needles from the choke cables, dropped the needles back in the carbs and threw those 10x1 screws in the choke holes to block off those cable retention holes,.... so from what I have read and heard, when those choke needles are all the way in there is no choke..??. upon removal of the choke cables, there is NO manage of the cable or any of the elbows.

 

Looking for these?



http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewto...=25686#p220675

 

Goint to run a wet and dry compression test tonight. What numbers am I looking for?? this is sooo confusing.

 

I was helping out with the CCT swap and I can't imagine it skipping a tooth on the cam. Does that happen? We set the CCT's at APE spec of 1/4" play between the cam sprockets so it's on the safe side if anything.

Reading through again could the problem be in the front cylinder maybe? When I was having problems with my rear cylinder, I could cover the rear velocity stack and the front would still keep going... and if I covered the front the rear wasn't working properly so it couldn't keep up. This one is the opposite...

 

Bump for this. Did you get the compression test done? I'm headed out of town now but will clock back in when I get back...

 

Yeah compression test was solid i believe it was like 153.. I have the numbers written down at home, im at school now, so now back to the carbs.