Radiator Fan Switch - Lower Temp
#1
Radiator Fan Switch - Lower Temp
Hey guys... I've read about the stock switch turning the fan on at 200+.
Has anyone tried one of these inexpensive Ebay switches that turns on at 85 degrees celsius (185 fahrenheit)?
Radiator Fan Switch for Honda NSS250AS CB600F CBR600F4 VFR800 VT600C VT750CA | eBay
They are only $10 shipped.... Just wondering whether they do what they say...
Thanks!
James
Has anyone tried one of these inexpensive Ebay switches that turns on at 85 degrees celsius (185 fahrenheit)?
Radiator Fan Switch for Honda NSS250AS CB600F CBR600F4 VFR800 VT600C VT750CA | eBay
They are only $10 shipped.... Just wondering whether they do what they say...
Thanks!
James
#2
I have used an Nissan fan switch (part #21595-01A00 equivalent) and it does indeed work if your cooling system is flushed properly.
I have no experience that particular piece of Chinese electronics, though.
I have no experience that particular piece of Chinese electronics, though.
#3
I run the lower temp switch and have the fan on a manual switch. That is a really good price for that as I had to search a long time to find one.
I dont know of the quality of that one but I do like having my fan come on sooner.
I dont know of the quality of that one but I do like having my fan come on sooner.
#4
I have the Nissan switch, also, but it is hard to locate at a decent price.
Look at the threads in the pic of the Ebay product you link to. They are not uniform. To me, the quality of the internals is suspect if the threads can't be done correctly.
I looked around and linked a thread from a website that might provide another idea:
Lower temp fan switch - Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org
A person might be able to find a similar product to the Nissan. Look at post #6 in that thread. If you do locate one at Advance or Autozone, etc., let the folks here on the forum know, too. Good luck and hope this helps.
Look at the threads in the pic of the Ebay product you link to. They are not uniform. To me, the quality of the internals is suspect if the threads can't be done correctly.
I looked around and linked a thread from a website that might provide another idea:
Lower temp fan switch - Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org
A person might be able to find a similar product to the Nissan. Look at post #6 in that thread. If you do locate one at Advance or Autozone, etc., let the folks here on the forum know, too. Good luck and hope this helps.
#5
You can reverse look up the switch by looking at a Nissan part websitesite, checking which vehicles it is used in and then look for a fan switch for that vechicle at autozone or Napa or whatever. That's how I did it. Got one for half of the OEM price, which is still more than double what the Chinese one is.
#7
#8
That just looks like photoshop background removal to me FWIW. The threads I imagine will be fine..
(:-})
#10
#13
Be aware that this is an 85*C unit. If I am correct the stocker is 100*C(ish) so when I was running this one (85) my fan was on A LOT. To the point that I got sick of it always running so put it on a switch. (in addition to the thermo switch of course)
#15
this may help
CARQUEST Auto Parts - Engine Controls Catalog - 0832
all you have to look for is a normally open switch (short) with M16 x 1.5 thd
53-13885 could be a good one
53-13828 is the one's from nissan
CARQUEST Auto Parts - Engine Controls Catalog - 0832
all you have to look for is a normally open switch (short) with M16 x 1.5 thd
53-13885 could be a good one
53-13828 is the one's from nissan
Last edited by gab; 10-06-2013 at 07:03 AM.
#20
I don't think I want my fan to come on at 185f... IIRC, normal operating temperature is 180.
I'm gonna put a switch in, like on my VFR, so when I slow into traffic, I can switch the fan on and prevent it from heating up.
I'm gonna put a switch in, like on my VFR, so when I slow into traffic, I can switch the fan on and prevent it from heating up.
#21
does anyone have a good way to test the fan? I can't say that I have ever heard my fan come on!!!! Could I just put a battery to it to make sure it come on? If it comes on then check the temp switch?
#22
Just take the wire plugged into the fan switch on your right radiator, then ground it on part of the frame or radiator when the ignition key is on. It should kick on (the fan switch is designed to ground it at a certain temp). Piece of cake, takes 30 seconds.
#24
OEM temp gauge comes on at 100*C I believe. If you can get a pot of water to that temp, you can check continuity between the switch body and plug at that temp. May want to check the manual to make sure it's 100*C.
But before you do that, more than likely it is not the switch as these things don't fail that often. More often it is issues with air bubbles in the cooling system (the coolant doesn't circulate well so the hot stuff stays in the thermostat/motor and the cooler stuff stays in the rads, thus the fan switch doesn't kick on). Have you changed coolant recently or noticed any leaks?
Or it could be a failed thermostat- if it fails closed, then water isn't circulating through the radiators. A quick way to check this is to take the radiator cap off when it's cold then turn the bike on. Once it reaches temp, you should start to see the coolant in your radiator "flow". If this is inconclusive or you don't see flow, test your thermostat. That one's easier to test. You suspend it in water with a thermometer and turn the heat on. Once the water reaches 80 or 85*C it should open. If it does not, then you need a new one! But if it's cooling decently while you're moving just the fan's not kicking on, this probably isn't the case.
But before you do that, more than likely it is not the switch as these things don't fail that often. More often it is issues with air bubbles in the cooling system (the coolant doesn't circulate well so the hot stuff stays in the thermostat/motor and the cooler stuff stays in the rads, thus the fan switch doesn't kick on). Have you changed coolant recently or noticed any leaks?
Or it could be a failed thermostat- if it fails closed, then water isn't circulating through the radiators. A quick way to check this is to take the radiator cap off when it's cold then turn the bike on. Once it reaches temp, you should start to see the coolant in your radiator "flow". If this is inconclusive or you don't see flow, test your thermostat. That one's easier to test. You suspend it in water with a thermometer and turn the heat on. Once the water reaches 80 or 85*C it should open. If it does not, then you need a new one! But if it's cooling decently while you're moving just the fan's not kicking on, this probably isn't the case.
#25
I did have a leak last winter the bike leaked coolant out of it and I pressure tested last weekend and it held just fine for 15 min. My bike got really hot last year and I don't remember the fan coming on. Was going to ride here pretty soon weather finally starting to get a lil warmer and see what it does. At least I know the fan works.
#26
I've never had an issue with the bike running hot. I've had the fan turn on maybe 3 times since I've owned it and only for less than a minute. Maybe because it's pretty much 75f and sunny all year, plus I can split lanes in traffic. My temp gauge usually sits around the 1/4 mark.
#28
Turns out its a wiring fault in the loom. Power at the fuse but not the plug to the fan. Ran a bypass from the battery to the fan and it works. Will be running power properly to the front of the bike soon so will do a tidier job when I wire that in.
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04-26-2010 07:44 PM