PAIR removal help needed
#1
PAIR removal help needed
I could use some forum wisdom here (I got some much appreciated help from speedkelly already).
With misplaced confidence I dove into pulling out the PAIR system ... and then looked at the directions here. Now I'm trying to get the motor running good again.
The diagram shows what I've blocked and what I've vented. At this point the motor only runs with the throttle open, and it's surging at that. The airbox is capped where necessary, the vacuum line running to the tank is crimp free. Could the problem be with carb sync? (They haven't been synced since I've owned it - 10yrs - but the motor ran good before digging into the PAIR.)
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
With misplaced confidence I dove into pulling out the PAIR system ... and then looked at the directions here. Now I'm trying to get the motor running good again.
The diagram shows what I've blocked and what I've vented. At this point the motor only runs with the throttle open, and it's surging at that. The airbox is capped where necessary, the vacuum line running to the tank is crimp free. Could the problem be with carb sync? (They haven't been synced since I've owned it - 10yrs - but the motor ran good before digging into the PAIR.)
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
#2
Hmm, you made it too complicated. All you need to do is flip the reed stopper over:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ead.php?t=9875
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ead.php?t=9875
#4
Chickenstrip...
I pulled my PAIR out 3 weeks ago.... (Non-CA) model though. I only had to "plug" two things.... the airbox, and a small tube/fitting that went from the side of the carbs to the "unit" that diverts the airbox tube to the cylinder heads. (sorry don't know the name).
I DID find I needed to raise my idle after doing this... I first thought I had a vac leak due to the low bearly idling condition after I fired it up, but after turning the idle up just a bit, it ran/runs just fine. I'd imagine this along with out of sync carbs could cause some problem... but I'd bet theres a vac hose open somewhere, or one capped that shoudn't be.
J.
I pulled my PAIR out 3 weeks ago.... (Non-CA) model though. I only had to "plug" two things.... the airbox, and a small tube/fitting that went from the side of the carbs to the "unit" that diverts the airbox tube to the cylinder heads. (sorry don't know the name).
I DID find I needed to raise my idle after doing this... I first thought I had a vac leak due to the low bearly idling condition after I fired it up, but after turning the idle up just a bit, it ran/runs just fine. I'd imagine this along with out of sync carbs could cause some problem... but I'd bet theres a vac hose open somewhere, or one capped that shoudn't be.
J.
#6
Hey Chickenstrip...I just turned my CA hawk into a non-CA hawk 2 weeks ago per the instructions on Hawkrider's site and, additionally, completely removed the PAIR system. The CA system utilizes the vac port that is needed to synch the carbs, therefore, that line remains, but is plugged. For my bike, all other lines are blocked/removed per original instructions, contrary to the note Mr. Satterfield wrote for leaving the PVC lines vented through a fuel filter to atmosphere for the PVC line (#5 on the CA emissions removal article on Hawkrider's site). When the PAIR is completely removed you should block the airbox and then plug the very small line that went to the top of the PAIR valve. My 01 looks totally different under the airbox with all the crap pulled off of it. I just completely removed the PAIR on my '05 also without any problems at all. It sounds like you have a vac leak somewhere. Check and recheck all the lines/plugs to be sure. Good luck and let us know, tyronne
#7
You should have two hoses venting from the carbs. Check the carb fix on Hawkrider's site...those two hoses need to vent. The 2 hoses coming off the PVC valve and going into a "T" need to be plugged. What I did was remove the "T" and join those hoses together with a plug. Those are the hoses that Mr. Satterfield advised to vent to atmosphere. That didn't work on my bike and I plugged them per the original instructions, as did another forum member. The small skinny hose coming off the charcoal canister down if front becomes the tank vent hose and vents to atmosphere. I rerouted that hose to run with the rest of the vent hoses down by the chin fairing and actually shortened it a bit. Be sure your petcock hose is on the appropriate fitting behind the petcock (it's a horizontal vent) and not on the vertical petcock vent sticking straight out the bottom. Check and recheck.
#8
Hey thanks, Tyronne. I also plugged the hoses at the 'T' - I wonder how that worked for Satterfield? It ran noticeably better after plugging the T, but I think you're right about the vacuum leak. I'm waiting for the oil in my homemade carb sync tool to relieve its bubbles before I go at it again. I'll take a closer look for leaks and balance the carbs in the next couple of days.
#9
Hi chickenstrip,
we also remove the PAIR in Germany. i only have a description in German language, but I saw that you have one in English.
But the thread here might help you a little bit because of the good pictures.
http://www.vtr1000.de/forum/showthread.php?t=12042
Notice: Synchronisation is absolutely needed. I synch my carburetors twice times a year!!
Carsten.
we also remove the PAIR in Germany. i only have a description in German language, but I saw that you have one in English.
But the thread here might help you a little bit because of the good pictures.
http://www.vtr1000.de/forum/showthread.php?t=12042
Notice: Synchronisation is absolutely needed. I synch my carburetors twice times a year!!
Carsten.
#10
Hey thanks, Tyronne. I also plugged the hoses at the 'T' - I wonder how that worked for Satterfield? It ran noticeably better after plugging the T, but I think you're right about the vacuum leak. I'm waiting for the oil in my homemade carb sync tool to relieve its bubbles before I go at it again. I'll take a closer look for leaks and balance the carbs in the next couple of days.
I have the Carbtune sync tool.... if you wanna borrow it let me know... I'm in Mount Vernon just off the Hutch Parkway/Cross County Parkway intersection... or I work in a building on 5th Ave at corner of 20st in Manhattan, if you can get to either of thsoe places, LMK.
J.
#12
As best I can remember, the only small skinny hose coming off the top of the PAIR valve runs up and to the right side of the front carb. It needs to be blocked off. You'll see it down on the right side of the front carb and running on the inside of the bracket that connects the two carbs. I believe it "T's" into another hose, so I just shortened and plugged it. If I'm wrong somebody correct me quick.
#13
As best I can remember, the only small skinny hose coming off the top of the PAIR valve runs up and to the right side of the front carb. It needs to be blocked off. You'll see it down on the right side of the front carb and running on the inside of the bracket that connects the two carbs. I believe it "T's" into another hose, so I just shortened and plugged it. If I'm wrong somebody correct me quick.
J.
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