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PAIR Removal

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Old 06-11-2007 | 05:49 AM
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PAIR Removal

I disabled the PAIR system this weekend, removed the PAIR controller, hoses, flipped the reed stopper around and capped off all removed hoses.

It seams to be running and little smother/quieter and seams to have a little less power. Before I was able to clutch it up in second... not now, seams to baugh(sp?) out a little. I decided to remove it because of the popping on decel, it seamed to cure it instantly, but now it's popping again... not much, but some. I was told it was jetted when I bought it but I have no idea what size. Two bros (low mount), K&N, jetted. I'm thinking about putting the PAIR back on. Any Ideas as to what could be going on?

Oh... I also cleaned my air filter while I had it out, if that helps.

-Chuck
Old 06-11-2007 | 10:36 AM
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Hi Chuck, it should not be that way, i did it w/my too engine power not affected at all. But make sure you dont cover valve breathers holes(the thumb side the ones that go from valve to your air box) some pop still happens not much at befo i remove my pair. And i even order BLOCK OFF PLATES not neccesity just make it look better.
Old 06-11-2007 | 10:51 AM
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This is what I plugged with the appropriate size vacuum plugs;
Both pair valves, carb 1(small hose going to the pair check unit) and the large one going from the air box to the pair check unit. Are you saying I should unplug the large hole on the air box??

Also, where did you get your block off plates?
Old 06-11-2007 | 11:22 AM
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Chuck, put those hoses back to the air box and others end to your valve cover breathers( 1 front-1 rear) there are only 2 plugs that you need to cover go to your already disable front and rear reeds valve cover or buy block off plate. Ebay and search for honda vtr block off plate about $35 make sure if u install those flip those cover to match fittings.
Old 06-11-2007 | 01:33 PM
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It says here,

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ead.php?t=3971

# Disconnect all the hoses one by one that attach to the airbox, engine, and carbs.
# Replace each one with an appropriately sized rubber cap as you go. IIRC, there is one screw holding the control valve to the airbox.
# Yank the whole thing as one assembly.

So, should I or shouldent I disconnect the air box hose?

I going to try putting the control valve back on and cap the ends that would go to the pair valve's. See if that makes a difference

Thanks.
Old 06-11-2007 | 04:21 PM
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Also, when you say "cleaned my air filter" do you have a paper type, or a K&N, cause if yo over oiled a K&N it can cause loss of power.
Old 06-11-2007 | 06:18 PM
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It's a K&N with just light oil. Barely a pinkish color.
Old 06-11-2007 | 08:16 PM
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Chuck, you can remove control valve and all the hoses connect from that control valve, but not the big hoses like thumb size that run into air box because if these cover up your front-rear vavle could not release hot air, or intake air from out side thru your air box in long run might cost engine damage. I also capture this infos from 1 of these thread of this forum and Greg who also wrote it.
Old 06-16-2007 | 09:34 PM
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There are three large nipples that come off the bottom of the airbox. Two are for the breathers, one front, one rear. The last is the air supply to PAIR. The supply to PAIR should be capped off. I use a coolant block off plug with a small hose clamp to ensure it doesn't fall off. You can also use a nylon tie wrap tightened down with a firm pull of a pliers.
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