Over heating 98 VTR1000
#63
Ok guys so there wasnt coolant in the radiator problem now is that the coolant in the right radiator keepa going bone dry every couple rides and I have to keep filling it. Any suggestions on the next step? Its like the coolant fill bottlw isnt giving it more coolant when it needs it
#64
If the coolant wasn't properly filled, you can have large air pockets in the system that eventually work their way into the rads. I've been deceived before thinking I worked all the air out only to find after each ride I'd have to put more coolant in the radiator. How many times has it done this? Based on how there wasn't enough to trigger the fan before, my guess is you're just a couple more bubbles away from having a fully filled system from your bone dry motor swap. This is what the running/filling/tapping/rinse and repeat process I described in the beginning speeds up.
The overflow bottle won't "give" coolant properly until the system is full. It only has access to the main coolant when the rad cap is open, which in turn only opens when there's a high amount of pressure, which in turn won't happen because the properties of air pockets reduce the pressure. Ahhh the fun of closed loop cooling!
The overflow bottle won't "give" coolant properly until the system is full. It only has access to the main coolant when the rad cap is open, which in turn only opens when there's a high amount of pressure, which in turn won't happen because the properties of air pockets reduce the pressure. Ahhh the fun of closed loop cooling!
#65
1) Is it leaking.....and B) did you replace your rad cap? Coolant could be steaming out if the seal is shot.
I know it seems too simple but go replace it anyway. I put a list of caps that will fit on here somewhere.
I know it seems too simple but go replace it anyway. I put a list of caps that will fit on here somewhere.
#66
#67
not leaking and in a previous post stated rad cap was replaced during motor swap it pressurizes and everything. the cooling system works fantastic until i ride it on a super hot day i gotta refill the next time i ride. and when i filled it up the other day on the beginning of this page i hit the throttle while filling all the way from cold until my fan kicked on again. i mean possible i may have a some air bubles but i didnt think it would be likely as how long i blipped the throttle and such.
#68
my bottom pan i have does have a little overflow in it occasionaly but thats OVERFLOW and it just leaks onto the bottom fairing no biggie there so ill try and burp the system again any other suggestions is appreciated.
#69
The coolant is going somewhere and it usually leaves a trail of dried on residue or some telltale stains where it's getting out. If the cap is known good I would closely inspect every joint and both radiators (both sides of each) for those clues. If it were getting past the pump seals you would likely see some evidence of emulsion in the oil. I don't believe 98s had the weep hose at the pump seal but I could be wrong. If you do have that and a failing seal it would also wet the bottom fairing. Good luck.
#70
not leaking and in a previous post stated rad cap was replaced during motor swap it pressurizes and everything. the cooling system works fantastic until i ride it on a super hot day i gotta refill the next time i ride. and when i filled it up the other day on the beginning of this page i hit the throttle while filling all the way from cold until my fan kicked on again. i mean possible i may have a some air bubles but i didnt think it would be likely as how long i blipped the throttle and such.
#71
okay well i have some good news. today i rode it fan kicked on i didnt ride it since friday so it didnt leak out my bottom pan didnt look wet.. maybe it was just some large air pocket in there. i wont know for sure till later this week as i drive it more.. ill keep you guys posted thanks for the help
#74
Well it struck again. Bone dry in my coolant. The filler tank doesn't seem to be giving the coolant when necessary it should take some coolant into the radiators after the thermostat opens if I'm not mistaking also when on a cold start of not riding after a few days the exhaust smells super sweet until it gets warm I don't think that's normal either. HELP
#75
You have a leak, just find it. Check every clamp, touch them all while running to feel for coolant.
I am getting exhausted by this and its not even my bike.
Check your oil, make sure its not weird. You dont want to worry about a head gasket.
I am getting exhausted by this and its not even my bike.
Check your oil, make sure its not weird. You dont want to worry about a head gasket.
#78
Your bike is injured, find and repair BEFORE riding it more or you'll only do more damage.
Coolant missing with none on the ground
Coolant burning in the exhaust.
No sign of coolant leaking from the water pump weep hole (moisture or dried coolant "tracks")
No sign of coolant leaking from a head casket outside the motor (moisture or dried coolant "tracks")
Cooling system pressure tested and showing no signs of pressure loss.
Cooling system cap pressure tested, no signs of pressure or vacuum leakage.
All equals head gasket leak. .... just have to figure out which head.... or replace both gaskets out of concern and lack of firm diagnosis.
All that assuming you have not damaged hard parts running the motor without coolant several times now.
#79
It is not normally, and a very common sign of a head gasket leaking coolant into the combustion chamber.
Your bike is injured, find and repair BEFORE riding it more or you'll only do more damage.
Coolant missing with none on the ground
Coolant burning in the exhaust.
No sign of coolant leaking from the water pump weep hole (moisture or dried coolant "tracks")
No sign of coolant leaking from a head casket outside the motor (moisture or dried coolant "tracks")
Cooling system pressure tested and showing no signs of pressure loss.
Cooling system cap pressure tested, no signs of pressure or vacuum leakage.
All equals head gasket leak. .... just have to figure out which head.... or replace both gaskets out of concern and lack of firm diagnosis.
All that assuming you have not damaged hard parts running the motor without coolant several times now.
Your bike is injured, find and repair BEFORE riding it more or you'll only do more damage.
Coolant missing with none on the ground
Coolant burning in the exhaust.
No sign of coolant leaking from the water pump weep hole (moisture or dried coolant "tracks")
No sign of coolant leaking from a head casket outside the motor (moisture or dried coolant "tracks")
Cooling system pressure tested and showing no signs of pressure loss.
Cooling system cap pressure tested, no signs of pressure or vacuum leakage.
All equals head gasket leak. .... just have to figure out which head.... or replace both gaskets out of concern and lack of firm diagnosis.
All that assuming you have not damaged hard parts running the motor without coolant several times now.
awesome ill be bringing it back to the people i had them do the swap on. hopefully theyll fix it... if not im fudged till i rebuild my old motor or figure out how to swap the head gasket. it runs like gold after i put the coolant in and its warm. no issues at all so im assuming the gasket is bad and ill just leave it be till i can fix it. how hard is a head gasket on a motor cycle especially our v twins. im gonna take apart the other one first to learn then do my motorcycle if they wont fix it.
#80
i always check my coolant to. make sure i have some before i ride each time. the fill bottle completely full and gets more full when i fill the radiator cause some overflow goes back through the top rad hose (its small like a breather tube it leads back to the coolant bottle) goes back into the fill bottle.
#81
It is not normally, and a very common sign of a head gasket leaking coolant into the combustion chamber.
Your bike is injured, find and repair BEFORE riding it more or you'll only do more damage.
Coolant missing with none on the ground
Coolant burning in the exhaust.
No sign of coolant leaking from the water pump weep hole (moisture or dried coolant "tracks")
No sign of coolant leaking from a head casket outside the motor (moisture or dried coolant "tracks")
Cooling system pressure tested and showing no signs of pressure loss.
Cooling system cap pressure tested, no signs of pressure or vacuum leakage.
All equals head gasket leak. .... just have to figure out which head.... or replace both gaskets out of concern and lack of firm diagnosis.
All that assuming you have not damaged hard parts running the motor without coolant several times now.
Your bike is injured, find and repair BEFORE riding it more or you'll only do more damage.
Coolant missing with none on the ground
Coolant burning in the exhaust.
No sign of coolant leaking from the water pump weep hole (moisture or dried coolant "tracks")
No sign of coolant leaking from a head casket outside the motor (moisture or dried coolant "tracks")
Cooling system pressure tested and showing no signs of pressure loss.
Cooling system cap pressure tested, no signs of pressure or vacuum leakage.
All equals head gasket leak. .... just have to figure out which head.... or replace both gaskets out of concern and lack of firm diagnosis.
All that assuming you have not damaged hard parts running the motor without coolant several times now.
Well guys have good and bad news. Good news is head gasket is in good shape cooling system us pressurized and I have NO leaks problem is fan still not turning on when I ride it. System was rebled and filled with new 50/50 coolant. Sorry for blowing the forum up but idk what else to do
#82
Well guys have good and bad news. Good news is head gasket is in good shape cooling system us pressurized and I have NO leaks problem is fan still not turning on when I ride it. System was rebled and filled with new 50/50 coolant. Sorry for blowing the forum up but idk what else to do
Can someone just give me a quick simple explanation or directions how to install a manual switch I want to do it this weekend and be done with iy
#83
Ok shadow. If you're gonna blow the spot up you gotta at least read the responses and act accordingly. Everyone wants to help but no one wants to post, be ignored then see the same question.
This may be time to do a search since I know I posted the manual switch thing several times, maybe even in this thread.
Putting a manual switch is pretty much asking for disaster. If you were lucky enuff to not destroy your bike yet but really want to, the do the manual switch.
Here is the deal. You are riding a superbike and have no time to stare at your dash looking for the right moment to turn it on. You will forget and trash your bike or crash while distracted.
Neither is a good plan result.
FIX YOUR FAN SWITCH.
Honda knew what they were doing when they made the bike with and auto switch not manual (or constant on)
This may be time to do a search since I know I posted the manual switch thing several times, maybe even in this thread.
Putting a manual switch is pretty much asking for disaster. If you were lucky enuff to not destroy your bike yet but really want to, the do the manual switch.
Here is the deal. You are riding a superbike and have no time to stare at your dash looking for the right moment to turn it on. You will forget and trash your bike or crash while distracted.
Neither is a good plan result.
FIX YOUR FAN SWITCH.
Honda knew what they were doing when they made the bike with and auto switch not manual (or constant on)
#84
Ok shadow. If you're gonna blow the spot up you gotta at least read the responses and act accordingly. Everyone wants to help but no one wants to post, be ignored then see the same question.
This may be time to do a search since I know I posted the manual switch thing several times, maybe even in this thread.
Putting a manual switch is pretty much asking for disaster. If you were lucky enuff to not destroy your bike yet but really want to, the do the manual switch.
Here is the deal. You are riding a superbike and have no time to stare at your dash looking for the right moment to turn it on. You will forget and trash your bike or crash while distracted.
Neither is a good plan result.
FIX YOUR FAN SWITCH.
Honda knew what they were doing when they made the bike with and auto switch not manual (or constant on)
This may be time to do a search since I know I posted the manual switch thing several times, maybe even in this thread.
Putting a manual switch is pretty much asking for disaster. If you were lucky enuff to not destroy your bike yet but really want to, the do the manual switch.
Here is the deal. You are riding a superbike and have no time to stare at your dash looking for the right moment to turn it on. You will forget and trash your bike or crash while distracted.
Neither is a good plan result.
FIX YOUR FAN SWITCH.
Honda knew what they were doing when they made the bike with and auto switch not manual (or constant on)
Last edited by shadow623_; 07-15-2014 at 05:33 PM.
#85
No worries on blowing threads up cause everyone working on bikes knows how much it sucks not having a diagnosis. It's the worst when you run out of options, and people on here will give advice all day long. But Joe is right- it will be much better in the long run to fix the problem and not make a band-aid.
Something is weird with your wiring- fan should turn off when the bike is off. I would start with figuring out why it's not doing this. See on this wiring diagram how the fan motor runs through the ignition? When the key is off, so should be the fan:
The reason is that if the wiring is not stock, it may not be turning on at the right times anyway. Is the fan on when the bike is on? Does it click on immediately when you turn it off? Something else? A digital multimeter ($25) would be super helpful for this and most electrical troubleshooting. You can quickly check electrical connections without waiting for a vague temperature window. What happens when you pull the fan fuse? Does it still run (indicating that there is a rogue connection somewhere from a PO).
Something is weird with your wiring- fan should turn off when the bike is off. I would start with figuring out why it's not doing this. See on this wiring diagram how the fan motor runs through the ignition? When the key is off, so should be the fan:
The reason is that if the wiring is not stock, it may not be turning on at the right times anyway. Is the fan on when the bike is on? Does it click on immediately when you turn it off? Something else? A digital multimeter ($25) would be super helpful for this and most electrical troubleshooting. You can quickly check electrical connections without waiting for a vague temperature window. What happens when you pull the fan fuse? Does it still run (indicating that there is a rogue connection somewhere from a PO).
#86
No worries on blowing threads up cause everyone working on bikes knows how much it sucks not having a diagnosis. It's the worst when you run out of options, and people on here will give advice all day long. But Joe is right- it will be much better in the long run to fix the problem and not make a band-aid.
Something is weird with your wiring- fan should turn off when the bike is off. I would start with figuring out why it's not doing this. See on this wiring diagram how the fan motor runs through the ignition? When the key is off, so should be the fan:
The reason is that if the wiring is not stock, it may not be turning on at the right times anyway. Is the fan on when the bike is on? Does it click on immediately when you turn it off? Something else? A digital multimeter ($25) would be super helpful for this and most electrical troubleshooting. You can quickly check electrical connections without waiting for a vague temperature window. What happens when you pull the fan fuse? Does it still run (indicating that there is a rogue connection somewhere from a PO).
Something is weird with your wiring- fan should turn off when the bike is off. I would start with figuring out why it's not doing this. See on this wiring diagram how the fan motor runs through the ignition? When the key is off, so should be the fan:
The reason is that if the wiring is not stock, it may not be turning on at the right times anyway. Is the fan on when the bike is on? Does it click on immediately when you turn it off? Something else? A digital multimeter ($25) would be super helpful for this and most electrical troubleshooting. You can quickly check electrical connections without waiting for a vague temperature window. What happens when you pull the fan fuse? Does it still run (indicating that there is a rogue connection somewhere from a PO).
I think I explained the whole fan on thing wrong. It runs when the ignition is on but motor not running but will not run when motor is running. When key is off position fan turns off. Sorry for confusion
#87
I can try pulling the fuse and see if it runs on not. Talk about weird I pulled the fuse fan didn't run turned motor of put fuse in fan turned on stayed bike stayed on let it cool for 5-10 min started bike got up to temp fan turned on lol wut
Last edited by shadow623_; 07-15-2014 at 06:40 PM.
#88
No worries it was hard to tell so I just made that assumption.
So does the fan ever run when the motor is running? In other words, if you do the fan test where you ground the wire/plug that goes to the fan switch, it works. But if you ground it when the motor is running, it doesn't work? It looks like from your earlier posts it will turn on when the motor is running, so that's a good start (wiring is normal). Which means if you pull the fuse it shouldn't work at all anytime.
Which if this is all the case, it goes back to "why isn't the fan switch working at the appropriate temperature?"
Not to sound like a broken record... but just to get some more detail. You're riding, it's rising above normal temperature and fan isn't on. You hit killswitch but ignition is still "ON". Fan then clicks on for half a minute.
So does the fan ever run when the motor is running? In other words, if you do the fan test where you ground the wire/plug that goes to the fan switch, it works. But if you ground it when the motor is running, it doesn't work? It looks like from your earlier posts it will turn on when the motor is running, so that's a good start (wiring is normal). Which means if you pull the fuse it shouldn't work at all anytime.
Which if this is all the case, it goes back to "why isn't the fan switch working at the appropriate temperature?"
Not to sound like a broken record... but just to get some more detail. You're riding, it's rising above normal temperature and fan isn't on. You hit killswitch but ignition is still "ON". Fan then clicks on for half a minute.
#90
No worries it was hard to tell so I just made that assumption.
So does the fan ever run when the motor is running? In other words, if you do the fan test where you ground the wire/plug that goes to the fan switch, it works. But if you ground it when the motor is running, it doesn't work? It looks like from your earlier posts it will turn on when the motor is running, so that's a good start (wiring is normal). Which means if you pull the fuse it shouldn't work at all anytime.
Which if this is all the case, it goes back to "why isn't the fan switch working at the appropriate temperature?"
Not to sound like a broken record... but just to get some more detail. You're riding, it's rising above normal temperature and fan isn't on. You hit killswitch but ignition is still "ON". Fan then clicks on for half a minute.
So does the fan ever run when the motor is running? In other words, if you do the fan test where you ground the wire/plug that goes to the fan switch, it works. But if you ground it when the motor is running, it doesn't work? It looks like from your earlier posts it will turn on when the motor is running, so that's a good start (wiring is normal). Which means if you pull the fuse it shouldn't work at all anytime.
Which if this is all the case, it goes back to "why isn't the fan switch working at the appropriate temperature?"
Not to sound like a broken record... but just to get some more detail. You're riding, it's rising above normal temperature and fan isn't on. You hit killswitch but ignition is still "ON". Fan then clicks on for half a minute.
Talk about weird I pulled the fuse fan didn't run turned motor of put fuse in fan turned on stayed bike stayed on let it cool for 5-10 min started bike got up to temp fan turned on lol wut
Not to sound like a broken record... but just to get some more detail. You're riding, it's rising above normal temperature and fan isn't on. You hit killswitch but ignition is still "ON". Fan then clicks on for half a minute.[/QUOTE]
correct