I'm pretty sure that my front rotors are warped, but would like some confirmation before I go on the hunt for some new ones. I just got back from Deals Gap and while I was there I noticed at around 50mph when I took my hands off the bars, the front had a shake back and forth. It wasn't major, but enough that I put my hand back on them to keep from getting worse. Another time I had to get hard on the brakes and also noticed the brakes seemed to fade (pulse). While riding though I really didn't notice.

I'm guessing they are warped and I'm going to need new ones. But if there is something else I should check, let me know.

Thanks!

I was going to hit up Classifieds/Ebay for anyone that might have some laying around, but if you know somewhere else (retail) I should look let me know. I don't have a lot of funds to upgrade to something else like Galfer's.

 

Are you sure it isn't pad deposits on the rotor? Uneven friction can cause that. Try going over the rotor carefully with some fine grit paper on a wood block and clean it up good with brake cleaner. Wouldn't hurt to scuff the pads too to remove any glazing.

 

How are your fork seals? You trashing the rotors with fork oil? Once your pads are oil soaked they are garbage. Get new ones soon. Find out where the oil is coming from. Rare instances of calipers leaking but has happened.

 

There doesn't appear to be any residue or oil on them and the seals seem ok. Would bad seals or deposits on the rotor cause the bars to shake?

 

I think yes, residual oil deposits do not distribute evenly. You can't see it. You have to put your fingers across the rotor. If your fingers are black you got bad fork seals or caliper seals.

 

So you were getting head shake when just going 50, and not on the brakes?

Unless the rotors are warped enough to be dragging while the brakes are not applied it doesn't really sound like warped rotors to me.

As for brake pulsing while stopping, that can be warped rotors, but more often (as already mentioned) it's brake pad deposits on the rotors.

 

Warped rotors will shake your bars when you apply the brakes. They'd have to be really bad to shake without brakes applied, and then it would worsen as you put on the brakes.

I would check your steering stem bearings and/or the locknut torque, it should be 18 ft/lbs.

 

It doesn't really sound like warped rotors would be your problem based on the shaking. As far as the pulsing, you should try having the rotors bead blasted. A machine shop can do it for you. Ask them not to blast the centers, just the brake sweep area.

 

hows your front tire?

 

I had that problem with my '04 'Busa. I could hear the front brakes dragging at low speed. Looking at the right side rotor, part of it was worn shiny. Also the brake pads were nearly worn out on that side.

Not sure how this happened. I thought maybe the shop bent the rotor when they installed a new front tire??

Anyhow, I replaced it ($300) and the pads on that side and it's as good as new again.

 

2 different issues as indicated above but I'll review.

Issue #1: Letting go of the bars at 50mph (and thus decelerating) can be a sign of worn a front tire, misaligned rear wheel (chain adjustment unequal side-to-side), and/or loose/worn steering head bearings (which can be checked by jacking up securely front of bike on engine sump and grabbing fork tubes and rocking steering stem making sure fork slider bushings are not also badly worn). Align rear wheel, check caliper alignment, check head bearings and slider bushings, replace front tire, etc first to eliminate them as a cause.

Issue #2: Pulsing brake lever could be build up of pad material and/or dirt/oil on rotors, hard spots on rotors, loose wheel bearings, unevenly worn rotors, unevenly tensioned rotor bolts, warped rotors, and/or misaligned calipers. Cleaning rotors with a red 3M Skotchbrite pad and 91% isopropyl alcohol or by removing and bead blasting rotors will remove pad material, oil and dirt. Remove and check rotors for flatness with a steel straight edge or on a 1/4"+ thick piece of glass. Rotors can be broach milled if rotors are not warped such that machining takes them down thinner than service limit stamped on rotors. Aftermarket replacement rotors are a cheaper option than OEM rotors.