NO ENGINE BREAKING AND A LOUD TICKING WHEN SHUT OFF
#1
NO ENGINE BREAKING AND A LOUD TICKING WHEN SHUT OFF
I Recently buggerd up the timing when i did the CCT job my self
had to get a mobile mechanic out, he was ace took the bike away and braught it back day after timing now seems to be spot on but he said i may have damaged the valves when i rode it with the timing slighty out, as it felt like it droped onto one cyclnder and was horrible to ride.
it feels like there isnt as much compresion and tourqe as there used to be, and when i sut off there appears to be no engine breaking at all. any idea what causes this? is it a valve/vales's
he said he will srip the engine and look at it for 200 pounds, which i think is prity awasome.
any ideas people?
thanks
(bikes done 15,000 miles)
had to get a mobile mechanic out, he was ace took the bike away and braught it back day after timing now seems to be spot on but he said i may have damaged the valves when i rode it with the timing slighty out, as it felt like it droped onto one cyclnder and was horrible to ride.
it feels like there isnt as much compresion and tourqe as there used to be, and when i sut off there appears to be no engine breaking at all. any idea what causes this? is it a valve/vales's
he said he will srip the engine and look at it for 200 pounds, which i think is prity awasome.
any ideas people?
thanks
(bikes done 15,000 miles)
#3
You can save some money by removing the cylinder head yourself. If you have a paper copy of the FSM it explains how to remove the head. If you do not have the paper FSM, it is available for download on the site. The FSM shows step-by-step the disassembly process. I helped another member, tromo1, remove the rear cylinder head on his bike when he had a similar problem like yours. The exhaust valves got slightly bent, but enough to need replacement. No special tools required other than a 1/2" drive to loosen the cylinder bolts.
Good Luck
Good Luck
#5
The compression check tool is pretty cheap, most auto stores have them. You can also use that adapter with an air compressor to do a leak down test to let you know which valves are causing the problem too. Just put the piston at TDC, pressurize it and the listen to your exhaust / carb for the sound of the air going by. Lets you know if its intake or exhaust valves. Listen to the crank breather (or your oil fill cap hole) for bad rings / head gasket.
#7
DO A COMPRESSION TEST!
It's simple if you know how to replace spark plugs.
1. Remove both plugs. Ground plug wires to the engine or remove ignition fuse to prevent spark.
2. Insert compression gauge into plug hole hand tight.
3. Crank engine for 5 compression strokes. (watch needle on gauge jump 5 times)
4. Repeat for other cylinder.
5. Compression should be 164 psi/11.5 kilograms per centimeter. (per Honda service manual)
If a valve is bent you will have quite a bit below spec on that cylinder.
It's simple if you know how to replace spark plugs.
1. Remove both plugs. Ground plug wires to the engine or remove ignition fuse to prevent spark.
2. Insert compression gauge into plug hole hand tight.
3. Crank engine for 5 compression strokes. (watch needle on gauge jump 5 times)
4. Repeat for other cylinder.
5. Compression should be 164 psi/11.5 kilograms per centimeter. (per Honda service manual)
If a valve is bent you will have quite a bit below spec on that cylinder.
#9
Leakdown test will rule out bad cam phasing, if it checks ok check the cam alignment, if it fails, listen where it goes out. The ticking sound is a nasty clue that a valve is out of wack.
A compression test will work too but a bad cam phasing will drop comp test.
A compression test will work too but a bad cam phasing will drop comp test.
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