newb doing a valve adjustment...
04-17-2013 | 04:19 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2
From: Rock Hill, SC
newb doing a valve adjustment...
Ok, this may be a stupid question, or I may have missed my answer when I was looking through the knowledge base threads.
If I'm shimming my valves (because I had the carbs off and did the APE CCT mod) and I want them to stay in spec longer which end of spec do I go too, bigger gap or smaller gap?
My left brain tells me I should make the gap the bigger end of spec cuz the valves stretch over time? Am I way off? Should I just make it dead on and check again in 20K?
Thanks guys! doing this myself is letting me avoid a 3 week wait at the shop.(and saving cash!)
PS: If you know any good ways for me to skip I-77 going from Rock Hill to south Charlotte PLEASE share..
If I'm shimming my valves (because I had the carbs off and did the APE CCT mod) and I want them to stay in spec longer which end of spec do I go too, bigger gap or smaller gap?
My left brain tells me I should make the gap the bigger end of spec cuz the valves stretch over time? Am I way off? Should I just make it dead on and check again in 20K?
Thanks guys! doing this myself is letting me avoid a 3 week wait at the shop.(and saving cash!)
PS: If you know any good ways for me to skip I-77 going from Rock Hill to south Charlotte PLEASE share..
04-17-2013 | 04:30 PM
#2
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,871
From: Phoenix, AZ
Slightly bigger gap as you said (but dead on would be my personal preference). As the valves wear into the head/stretch, they close the gap between the cam buckets and the cams.
Keep it in spec and keep them consistent!
Keep it in spec and keep them consistent!
05-28-2013 | 07:21 PM
#5
Seasoned tech
SuperSport
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 576
From: Issaquah, WA
You would want them loose as they will tighten up but it's not because they stretch. The seat and valve faces wear causing them to recess further into the head and thus making the lash smaller as they wear.
05-28-2013 | 07:52 PM
#6
Administrator
MotoGP
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,402
From: Kempner, TX
Thought for me loose means the loose end of the spec.... NO MORE than that.. And as you are limited to adjustments via available shim thickness.. you get as close as possible and live with it.
05-29-2013 | 05:50 AM
#8
Administrator
MotoGP
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,402
From: Kempner, TX
"misalignment" Do you mean mis adjustment?
As a misaligned valve would be a bent one...and the signs of that are valves hitting piston.
If you meant misadjusted... like you made them too loose? Sure, loud clacking sounds.. Too tight poor running to no start.
If you did not mean mis adjusted, but just out of spec by wear from use...
Then as they get tighter from normal wear.. there is no performance difference until the running clearance is zero or less .. then you get runnability issues and eventually a no start.
As a misaligned valve would be a bent one...and the signs of that are valves hitting piston.
If you meant misadjusted... like you made them too loose? Sure, loud clacking sounds.. Too tight poor running to no start.
If you did not mean mis adjusted, but just out of spec by wear from use...
Then as they get tighter from normal wear.. there is no performance difference until the running clearance is zero or less .. then you get runnability issues and eventually a no start.
05-29-2013 | 09:42 AM
#9
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,871
From: Phoenix, AZ
I also said keep it in spec after agreeing that loose is better than tight for prolonged wear
06-01-2013 | 06:12 AM
#10
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 273
From: Pompano Beach, Fl.
8541Hawk adjusts them to the loose side of spec which does 2 things. Motor will make more torque for harder 60-80 roll ons and you won't have to adjust them again for a longer period of time. I trust 8541Hawk's opinion like most others do, also.
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