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New user intro and question about R/R mod

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Old 05-16-2009 | 08:48 PM
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New user intro and question about R/R mod

Just bought a 98 Hawk. Racetech front springs, Fox twin clicker shock, SS lines, CBR954 wheels/brakes, VFR clip ons, custom white pearl paint and gold paint wheels, carbon fiber bits all around, seat cowl, Devil high mount exhaust w/ bafflectomy, jetted, PAIR removal, custom yellow face guages, superbike grips, hugger, 1 tooth down on front sprocket, pazzo levers, woodcraft rearsets, eh I forget the rest. Anyways in other words it's the bike I would cheat on my wife with. And that's saying a lot.
Took it home and first thing I did was check the R/R after reading these forums. Yup it was melted and crapped out. So I got a 99 R1 R/R - jesus what a difference - this thing is huge. For the biggest and best mass production bike producer I have no idea how this piece of crap slipped into the build. And I'm no mechanic. Anyways the question I have is this - the connector was melted so I cut the wires from the Hawk and also cut and stripped the wires from the R1 R/R. Can I just solder the wires together or is there any reason I need to use a spade connector like what was originally on the bike? I'm not big on electronics so this may be a dumb question but I want to do it right the first time. Don't see any reason why I couldn't connect all the wires together directly - looks to me like these connectors are mainly used to make replacement an easy plug-and-play job. Thanks in advance - I've learned a lot from you experienced owners here and it's appreciated.
David
Old 05-16-2009 | 09:02 PM
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When I installed my RR, I used spade connectors, soldered them to the wire and then soldered the spade to the pin connector on the RR for a really good connection. Been running it for over a year now with zero problems.
Old 05-16-2009 | 10:51 PM
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Welcome to the forums,

Wiring a R/R directly with no plug is proven in the lab(motovoltage) to be the most solid application , as no more hot spots in the AC leads or plugs form.
The 3-phase AC wave generated by the stator behaves like analog radio frequency(because it is) at higher RPM and will arc within and heat-up every plug terminal between the stator and the R/R. You cant stop this without solder.
If you have a melted plug thats deformed, you better check your stator for shorts before installing a new R/R.
I will soon ( by tomorrow night) post a concise and easy to follow charging system check out procedure on my site and here too.
'How to check a stator with only a test light-and other easy tests on your charging system.'
Theres a lot of hokus pokus urban legend about bikes and their charging systems.

Last edited by Circuit_Burner; 05-16-2009 at 11:08 PM.
Old 05-17-2009 | 08:28 AM
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Great thanks for the quick and concise reply. Although I'm dying to get the bike on the road I'll wait for your post...sounds like a great idea. The plug wasn't deformed, just noticed the plastic was melted around the spade connectors and the ends of the wires were hard and brown.
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