In the fuse block you have a row of fuses & 2 spare fuses off to the side. Right next to the spare fuses is a black rectangle. That is the Diode.

Pull it out and it will have 3 legs on it. If you have a diode checker just use that otherwise use an OHM meter. Check from the center pin to each of the outside pins. You should have continuity one way and when you switch the leads it should be open.

 

So did you ever check the spark plug for spark on the engine block? You gotta check for that. If you have it then it should start with starting fluid and its feuel. I have gone through this and it eventually started with a jump start. Dumb I know but you gotta try everything.

 

Used my Ohm meter and it registered 1.8 ohms on both the left and right pin with the positive lead from my ohm meter on the center pin. When I switch the leads (negative lead on center pin) I get no readings on either left or right pins.

 

That is the way it is supposed to work.

 

I don't know if I'm doing the procedure correctly, because I'm not getting a spark from either plug.
Removed front plug; re-connected it to the boot/wire; tried to start engine while holding wire and bringing tip of plug close to engine block (no spark); touched engine block (no spark at all). Replaced the front plug and removed the rear plug. Same thing with the rear plug. Neither of them give spark. I can't believe that's the cause of all of this, because how would I have been able to start the engine and travel for 30+ miles with no issues and then have the engine die because both plugs are bad?
I have to be doing something wrong.

 

You gotta touch the thread part of the plug to the grounding source, not the tip, may change the results. I look for big bolt heads, as in the picture. Any raw steel you can find is the best

 

Just for reference, the spark plug is:
NGK R
DPR9EVX
9

Pictures:
1. My gap tool only goes up to 0.020 (0.508mm) and the gap on this plug is greater than that. Not by much, but the gap is bigger.

2. Shows how black the plug is, as mentioned earlier.

 

OK... did it exactly as you have it pictured - NOTHING.

By the way: I am smelling fuel through the spark plug hole as it turns over.

 

How do I test the kill switch? I still haven't figured out that wiring.
(see post my post #22)

By the way: Thanks for being so patient with me guys. As I said in the intro, I have very limited motorcycle repair knowledge and skill. So this is a real learning experience for me.

 

The point of the test is not to prove the spark plugs suddenly went bad, it's to help you troubleshoot to determine if the problem is electrical or fuel related. It clearly looks electrical now.

 

Go to page 19-20.
Service Manual - SuperHawk Forum
Now you have a copy of the service manual

 

I think SuperH1998 meant Section 19-20, which is page 363 on the VTR Service manual PDF "Handlebar Switches"

 

Thanks, VTRRider...My bad

 

Thanks superh1998!
Whew! Got that done.
Did the continuity check and the kill switch checks out fine.

 

Probably won't solve your problem, but from the looks of your plugs you could use a new set...

 

THERE IS ANOTHER POST ABOUT SOMEONE WITH LOOSE STATOR BOLT
hE ALSO PICKED UP A CDI FROM A 2002 AND WANTS TO SELL IT SINCE IT WAS NOT FAULTY ON HIS BIKE
TYPE IN CDI AND HIT SEARCH
GOOD LUCK

 

3-4 days of trying to figure this thing out with my limited abilities - I gave up.
Took it to Honda Service this morning.
I'll let you know what they come up with as soon as they tell me.
Thanks for all your help, though.
It's been a learning experience!

 

Yeah man I hate that feeling. Did you talk to them about the stuff you thought. SOMETIMES that helps them to not rip you off as much. I had to do that when I half fried my ECU and couldnt figure it out.

 

Yep. I told the service manager, but when he wrote up the ticket, it just said, "won't start". Reminded him that I checked switches and plugs. He acknowledged me and said he would speak with the tech tomorrow.
Regardless of that... I'm going to go back tomorrow morning, in person (maybe try to speak with the tech directly) and remind them that all switches checked out fine, but that I got no spark.

 

Dont push too hard to speak to everyone. That tends to **** them off. They wont likely change their diagnostics based on your say so, it just helps to give them a sense that you care & are not a total know-nothing owner & have a sense of the bike.

 

Honda service has been pretty cool with me.
So far they have narrowed it down to either the ICM/CDI or the converter unit. The mechanic said he would bet its the ICM, but there is no way of knowing until a new one is installed. Argh! very expensive.