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As I have done more then once in the past and others have as well. I broke one of the plastic choke valve retainer nuts when I was working on carbs a few weeks back. I had to leave town for a month and the bike has just been sitting.....parts came in 4 weeks ago, and I got home last night...
So the HoneyDo list had to wait.. In to the shop I go.
Chuck up the new starter valve nut and drill the recess to depth
Cut the retention slot for the rubber boot.
Remove the part and blow off the chips
Install back where it belongs
Longer to post then it was to finish the part.
Just need to get the gas tank back from the painters and we can see what my new jetting will do.
This is a easy to do MOD that rids the SH of a commonly broken plastic part.... If you take your carbs out for any reason.....broken or not, replace the starter valve retainer nut with a modified Polaris part 3130199 , Holder Guide $8.77 each
Last edited by E.Marquez; 05-21-2018 at 10:06 AM.
Reason: Photobucket SUCKS and blocked 3rd party hosting
Since I don't have a lathe I'd be willing to buy two of them from you if you care to make some more.
Ditto for me too! I was going to buy Jack Flash's choke cable assembly just for the plastic bosses (sorry JF) but why go back with the same crap...though with 8ok miles I could probably use some fresher choke valves & needles?
I did PM, because what i have to ask for them is embarrassingly expensive ..
Yes, I can make more of these modded Polaris parts...It's just a bit pricey...
25.00 for two Polaris Holders at my cost, shipped to me from the OEM.
$15.00 for my time, tooling wear.
And
$5.80 USPS priority Shipping to most places in the US.
That's $45.80 for two of these MOD'ed Polaris Holders shipped to your door.
If I had a Polaris dealer, or ordered from a shop regular that sold Polaris parts, the buy in would be less...But Im in Texas.. and it means shipping these things twice.
Happy to do a set for others if folks are interested... Just cant do um at a loss.
sorry to hi-jack a thread but was just going through the forum when I see this. I made some of these in the past and can certainly make some more again if it helps anyone out.
Feel free to look at this thread on a forum I belong too and why I made them.
I was selling them over here in the UK to a few people where they needed replacing and just sent some to Canada so can't see why I can't send some more to somewhere different.
Costing wise I am sure they will come in around $18 posted to most places in the US. If the cost of posting comes in wildly different than where I sent other stuff then I'll advise and confirm this is okay before I send them.
sorry to hi-jack a thread but was just going through the forum when I see this. I made some of these in the past and can certainly make some more again if it helps anyone out.
Feel free to look at this thread on a forum I belong too and why I made them.
I was selling them over here in the UK to a few people where they needed replacing and just sent some to Canada so can't see why I can't send some more to somewhere different.
Costing wise I am sure they will come in around $18 posted to most places in the US. If the cost of posting comes in wildly different than where I sent other stuff then I'll advise and confirm this is okay before I send them.
Any questions then please feel free to ask.
Very nice..
By all means, get a replacement from gl_s_r.. Heck I might have if I had known it was an option I spent $17.54 before postage and still had to modify them.
If only I had a CNC mill center but making them from bar stock on a small manual mil and lathe is very time consuming.
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I was doing some searching when I came across this thread and figured I'd add some info. As far as I know, pretty much all Mikunis use this same thread for the choke plungers. And they come on MANY snowmobiles. I've pulled carb parts off my friends junk 88 Polaris Indy for my 97 Arctic Cat. I have a set of arctic cat choke cables sitting here I might pull the brass bushing off of and give this a shot. They are a little different than the Polaris ones (longer), but if I am machining them anyway, it's no big deal to cut them. If it works, it's super cheap to get choke parts from an Arctic Cat ZR or Polaris Indy. I think my set of choke cables were like $10-15 shipped. Find some old beat up cables, the brass fitting will be fine, and get them for next to nothing.
Ok. Thanks to everyone for the input. I ordered the Polaris parts and will give that a go. I know I can drill out the diameter but don't have the lathe to do the retaining slot. Maybe do the dremel thing. Would a small clamp hold it on without the retaining ring?
Ok. Thanks to everyone for the input. I ordered the Polaris parts and will give that a go. I know I can drill out the diameter but don't have the lathe to do the retaining slot. Maybe do the dremel thing. Would a small clamp hold it on without the retaining ring?
You can hand file or use a hack saw blade to make the retaining slot.. just go SLOW. It will not be pretty, but it'll work. Use a hose clamp as a guide, file or cut against the edge
Mr. Marquez.
What size diameter drill bit did you use and how deep do I need to drill out the new retainer? I have a pair of the Polaris fittings. Is there any other modification that the new retainers need other than the drilling and the cutting of the retention ring that needs to be done?
So it looks like I'm just taking out the threads and leaving enough ridge inside to hold the cable from slipping all the way thru. Sounds right? Do I need to use any washers to hold it off a bit from the carb? It looks like it needs that so the slide fits properly.
So it looks like I'm just taking out the threads and leaving enough ridge inside to hold the cable from slipping all the way thru.
Yes essentially, but you also need to deepen the counter bore on the carb side of the retainer. the overall length is close enough.. you just need to bore out the new part ON BOTH ENDS, to closely match the OEM part.
Originally Posted by YellowBird
Do I need to use any washers to hold it off a bit from the carb? It looks like it needs that so the slide fits properly.
Not sure what your asking...
Hold what off the carb.....?
The new starter valve retainer screws into the carb all the way just like the OEM one.
I just got through modifying a couple of these Polaris fittings. I don't have a lathe but I do have a slow battery powered drill and that worked just fine. I bored the threaded side out to fit the cable end. I relived the carb side enough to allow for the needle valve to pull fully back (It just needs to be a bit deeper to accommodate the spring. I didn't even cut the grove for the cable cover because the fit was good and it seemed unnecessary.
Warning: when making these cuts with a drill be VERY careful. A sharp bit will dig into the brass and cut faster than you thought possible.
I just got through modifying a couple of these Polaris fittings. I don't have a lathe but I do have a slow battery powered drill and that worked just fine. I bored the threaded side out to fit the cable end. I relived the carb side enough to allow for the needle valve to pull fully back (It just needs to be a bit deeper to accommodate the spring. I didn't even cut the grove for the cable cover because the fit was good and it seemed unnecessary.
Warning: when making these cuts with a drill be VERY careful. A sharp bit will dig into the brass and cut faster than you thought possible.
I did this....now the choke doesn't want to pull all the way out.
Since this thread is active again, a question. Does the counter bore on the carb side need to be the same depth as the stock fitting? (I'm guessing yes) This would leave less than a mm (.8mm) of shoulder internally. Yes/no? Because I don't have a lathe that small of a margin will be hard to control.
Since this thread is active again, a question. Does the counter bore on the carb side need to be the same depth as the stock fitting? (I'm guessing yes) This would leave less than a mm (.8mm) of shoulder internally. Yes/no? Because I don't have a lathe that small of a margin will be hard to control.
I went 11.5mm deep on the carb side using a 7mm drill and a drill stop.
And 8.5mm deep on the cable side using a 6.5mm drill and drill stop.
That left me a 1.5mm shoulder inside to stop the cable movement.
With a drill stop and careful measurements you should be fine, or at least i was.
The first set i made was with drill press and manual measurement / collar type drill stop. The second set was on the lathe and a DRO for drill depth.
No offence intended, but that just means you did it wrong. as the Polaris parts can be MOD'ed to be a direct replacement.
No offense taken; I just wanted to reinforce to everybody that you can't go all '*****-nilly' with trying to make the brass replacement. Depths, tools, and especially putting care and time into it make a huge difference!
I went 11.5mm deep on the carb side using a 7mm drill and a drill stop.
And 8.5mm deep on the cable side using a 6.5mm drill and drill stop.
That left me a 1.5mm shoulder inside to stop the cable movement.
With a drill stop and careful measurements you should be fine, or at least i was.
The first set i made was with drill press and manual measurement / collar type drill stop. The second set was on the lathe and a DRO for drill depth.
Thanks for the info.
Having a senior moment. I picked up a drill press a few months ago and forgot that I have it. I even have used it a few times.
With the right bits and stops I should be all set.
Are you sure you havn't already made a set of these? I'm pretty sure I remember you posting that you had made some of these and installed them already.
02-04-2013 | 10:33 AM
I spent $17.54 before postage and still had to modify them.
but making them from bar stock on a small manual mil and lathe is very time consuming.
