AZZKIKER

sounds like my stock R/R is toast. Time to order a new one.

fundgh

I had the second occurance of what some may hypothesize as a R/R failure yesterday. The reason I am posting here is that you say the Gauges are "possessed". That is what I see. First the Tach drops to zero, then while signaling or changing from low to high beam or breaking, the Speedo bounces to zero and the Odo goes blank. When it happend last week, I stopped to turn around and it all came back. No furhter issue (rode for another 40 miles). Yesterday after 70-80 miles with a stop for dinner after about 25, the same thing happened right at the end of the ride. I pulled into the garage and let it idle, but nothing changed. The headlight was dim, and no reaction from the tach. I shut her down and pulled the seat. Checked the voltage on the battery and it read 10.5 V. The R/R was hot to the touch, but I imagine that is normal, but maybe not. Does the R/R typically go in and out operation prior to failing, or could I have a battery issue or charging system failure?

RickB

R/Rs normally get hot... Low voltage can make make electronic things like the tach and other gauges do wierd things so you very likely could have a failing R/R. If you have a voltmeter check the voltage at the battery around 5k rpm like others have mentioned, you should have somewhere around 15. They can go either with a low output or a high output that can fry a host of other things. IMHO if you have the old non finned R/R replace it as a precaution even if it does seem to be working normally.

A bad battery (like one with a shorted cell) can cause the R/R to fail also but if it holds a charge its probably ok. Charge it overnight with a trickle charger if you haven't already before you test it.

blokeontheend

how old is the battery?

superbling

Here's what I did when mine failed through overcharging nearly three years ago:

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...gsxr+regulator

BTW, the Honda manual calls good anything from 13.5-15.5v at 5k rpm.

BLAKCK HAWK

I Read That A R1 R/R Will REPLACE THE STOCK R/R,

IF SO , WHICH YEAR WILL DO IT ?

fundgh

From what I understand it is supposed to be the 5 wire r/r, from the non fuel injected model year. I saw one that looke correct and was advertised as a 98-01 R1 R/R.

I have the same question about the GSXR R/R, what year and model? There appears to be more GSXR R/Rs available. Anybody know which gixxer r/r to put on? Does it matter if it came from a 600/750 or the 1000?

fundgh

Just an update:

I did all of the tests that the Haynes manual recommends last night. Being that my issue is intermitent, I did not find anything obviously wrong. One thing that was out of spec was the resistences between yellow wires going to the stator (BTW: Haynes refers to the charging device as an alternator, so I don't blame people anymore who use the incorrect term) were supposed to be <0.5ohms, and I was getting .6 or .7ohms. They were all even, so I don't know if I need to be concerned with that at this point. My intention was to go out and ride until I could get the issue to repeat itself, them bring it in and take some measurements. Any thoughts?

XLSR-VTR1

I had the same issue this year. The battery was a few years old and a little tired and would take a charge. The RR would get hot and voltage was somewhat evident but it just didnt seem to charge up. The resistance test across the yellow leads were the same as you. After being left dead twice I replaced the battery and got a new RR. Fired right up and has been fine since. I found one online for $120+-. If the battery is more than a few years old, Id suggest replacing it too.. Also a mechanic friend of mine said usually RR life anything over 40-50k miles is just bonus miles on those units.

fundgh

The battery is fairly new, but I have had 4 dead battery issues since the beginning of this intermitent issue. Can that damage the battery. It seems to hold a charge and fires right up. It doesn't seem to charge over 12.7-8 V on the tender.

XLSR-VTR1

MC batteries dont like being discharged totaly so be aware of that. If its new like you say, Id gamble on the 120 bones for a new RR, it was tough for me too when my voltage meter said 12.5+... but it was bad, the old style ones are cased in resin and just dont last more than 40-50k... but the new ones have cooling fins!
I bought my 98VTR new and its at 45k and done a bunch to it over the years, I just found this forum by accident and am pleased with all the info here.

HisHawkiness

When my RR failed the tach went dead.....this guy is mentioning the same kind of stuff....im wondering if the overcharging the RR did has damaged my guages? or are they just acting weird

XLSR-VTR1

Didnt have that problem... after replacing the RR and battery the gages are still not working properly?

fundgh

My gauges go Hay wire when the intermitent issue is occuring. At this point my assumption is that it is an intermitent issue with the R/R, and when it is not occuring, the gauges are fine. The thought being that the gauges are not receiving the necessary voltage to function properly during the malfunction. I have yet to be able to verify that there is indeed a problem with the R/R. I have always been in motion when the issue occurs. I do know that the battery does not charge during the malfunction because I have stopped shortly after the malfunction and no been able to restart the bike.

XLSR-VTR1

The gages are probably wacking out because the battery voltage is almost zero... if you are not sure take it to the shop but they'll probably tell you to replace the RR including there charge to look at it.. Id just replace it if you have the $. Electrical issues suck.

AZZKIKER

Ok guys. I replaced the R/R with the new OEM finned one, brand new. It is charging at 14.1 volts at 2 k rpms. I am good to go. Hopefully this one will last for a while.

XLSR-VTR1

cool good luck, dont forget to keep your battery on a tender if youre not going to ride for more than a few weeks if the battery is over a year old... just this old guys suggestion.

torquepeak

Here are two articles on changing and checking Regulators Rectifiers and Wiring. It shows how to use later model units. Dont know if they have been posted here yet.

http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/.../dead_reg.html

http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/...g_replace.html

torquepeak

I am in the middle of replacing my R/R after being stranded and have been going over the wiring elsewhere looking for problems. Seems a lot of the connections on my 98 are corroding and or loosening. I found a melted headlight connector, corroded connection on the main fuse and some wires about to break at the pin connection.

These things could add up to too much current draw and then on to R/R failure.

So, my advice is check all connections and put some corrosion protection on them.

AZZKIKER

Thanx, I already checked. No corrosion to be found.

iscoot

what R/R should one buy. i need one.

XLSR-VTR1

the new finned factory replacement is what I used and good as anything out there I think.

This is the best price Ive found too
http://www.hondaparts-direct.com/fiche_select.asp

iscoot

part number?