in the midst of MCCT install
11-13-2007 | 09:48 AM
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in the midst of MCCT install
Heya, ran into a little snag. I'm doing the valve cover off version of the MCCT install and having a bit of trouble with the little plastic tray thing that kinda hugs around the carbs underneath the airbox. It's in the way and I'm wondering if it really even needs to be on the bike? what function does it serve, and would you reccomend taking it off?
11-13-2007 | 11:54 AM
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haha in that case i'll leave it on.
Rear MCCT is on, did the zip tie method. Did not hear a click as the ACCT was removed, though the chain did bow a bit in the center. The mark on the crank was at RT and both RT marks on the cam gears were facing eachother. Going slow and taking our time, would you think it would be alright to proceed with the front without removing the cover?
Rear MCCT is on, did the zip tie method. Did not hear a click as the ACCT was removed, though the chain did bow a bit in the center. The mark on the crank was at RT and both RT marks on the cam gears were facing eachother. Going slow and taking our time, would you think it would be alright to proceed with the front without removing the cover?
11-13-2007 | 12:34 PM
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and you can remove the front valve cover by loosening the oil cooler and dropping it out of the way and working the cover out the front.
11-13-2007 | 01:54 PM
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If you are not due to check your valves, I wouldn't bother with the front cover. I was checking my valves anyway when I changed mine, so I did. There are clearance issues with the front cover and 2 of the front cover bolts. It's do-able, but a pain.
To get to TDC Compression on the front, the first thing you need to do is verify that you are at TDC Compression on the rear. The RT on the flywheel should be aligned with the index mark, and the R-I and R-E timing marks should be flush with the head surface and facing outward (if they are facing in, you are 360°, or one turn off).
In the manual it says to go from front TDC-C to rear TDC-C, rotate the crankshaft CCW 270° and align the "RT" mark. So, if you want to go from rear TDC-C to front TDC-C, you need to go (90+360=) 450° CCW to get to front TDC compression. Unless someone checks my math and I'm full of *****.
Good luck.
To get to TDC Compression on the front, the first thing you need to do is verify that you are at TDC Compression on the rear. The RT on the flywheel should be aligned with the index mark, and the R-I and R-E timing marks should be flush with the head surface and facing outward (if they are facing in, you are 360°, or one turn off).
In the manual it says to go from front TDC-C to rear TDC-C, rotate the crankshaft CCW 270° and align the "RT" mark. So, if you want to go from rear TDC-C to front TDC-C, you need to go (90+360=) 450° CCW to get to front TDC compression. Unless someone checks my math and I'm full of *****.
Good luck.
11-13-2007 | 03:34 PM
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Well the MCCT's went in without a problem. Appreciate the help. 
I attempted to check my valve clearances on the rear cylinder, and I think it's time...wow... .016 on the exhaust, and I don't have a feeler small enough for the intake on the rear. I don't think I'm competent enough mechanically to undertake this so I'm going to run it over to a friend and have him do it.
I attempted to check my valve clearances on the rear cylinder, and I think it's time...wow... .016 on the exhaust, and I don't have a feeler small enough for the intake on the rear. I don't think I'm competent enough mechanically to undertake this so I'm going to run it over to a friend and have him do it.
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