Messed up my aftermarket blinkers
#1
Messed up my aftermarket blinkers
I bought a set of flush mount blinkers for the front. The blinkers only came with two wires and no place for a ground. The factory blinkers have a ground. I tied the factory ground to the negative lines on each side since the flush mounts have not place to accept a ground. Thought that would work but now my small head light and gauge cluster don't work. Any help out there?
#2
The 2 wire flushmounts don't accommodate the running lights of the stock units, so you'd just hook up the blinker hot lead and ground to the 2 wires on the flushmounts. You'd have to tape off the 3rd wire for the running lights to prevent it from grounding out and blowing a fuse...which I'm guessing you did (blow a fuse by shorting to ground, that is).
#3
The 2 wire flushmounts don't accommodate the running lights of the stock units, so you'd just hook up the blinker hot lead and ground to the 2 wires on the flushmounts. You'd have to tape off the 3rd wire for the running lights to prevent it from grounding out and blowing a fuse...which I'm guessing you did (blow a fuse by shorting to ground, that is).
#4
The 2 wire flushmounts don't accommodate the running lights of the stock units, so you'd just hook up the blinker hot lead and ground to the 2 wires on the flushmounts. You'd have to tape off the 3rd wire for the running lights to prevent it from grounding out and blowing a fuse...which I'm guessing you did (blow a fuse by shorting to ground, that is).
On the right I have factory blue/white and solid blue. Hooked up the same way. Turned the blinkers on and it popped the fuse. I think/thought the factory hot wire is solid w/o a stripe. What am I doing wrong here??
#5
The 2 wire flushmounts don't accommodate the running lights of the stock units, so you'd just hook up the blinker hot lead and ground to the 2 wires on the flushmounts. You'd have to tape off the 3rd wire for the running lights to prevent it from grounding out and blowing a fuse...which I'm guessing you did (blow a fuse by shorting to ground, that is).
#8
#10
#11
#12
#13
Choose which one you want.
There is no need to ground anywhere but the ground wire that is in the factory harness.
On your signals, one wire is hot, the other is ground. It's as simple as that.
#14
Now, I could just tell you what wire to hook up where... But none of you that are having problems are going to learn from that, so I wont...
The obvious way to figure it out which two of the three wires on the bike that you hook up and which one you isolate off, is to take a multimeter and put the blinker on without hooking anything up...
Then use the multimeter... One pair of wires will give you a steady signal, thats running light... One combination will give you a pulsing signal, that's the one you want... The cable not used, you isolate off well...
It's not rocket science... It's not even half complicated... Most schoolkids will do this level of electronics in 4-6 grade as part of the physics/science education, so if you managed to survive to an adult age, it should be feasible to work it out...
The obvious way to figure it out which two of the three wires on the bike that you hook up and which one you isolate off, is to take a multimeter and put the blinker on without hooking anything up...
Then use the multimeter... One pair of wires will give you a steady signal, thats running light... One combination will give you a pulsing signal, that's the one you want... The cable not used, you isolate off well...
It's not rocket science... It's not even half complicated... Most schoolkids will do this level of electronics in 4-6 grade as part of the physics/science education, so if you managed to survive to an adult age, it should be feasible to work it out...
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#19
Edit: But I am damn good at taking standardized tests!
Last edited by 7moore7; 06-21-2011 at 07:10 AM.
#20
Ok, I stand corrected then...
In Sweden at least you get to learn the basics... Ie play around with batteries, lightbulbs and switches... And measure volt and ampere, ie which is in series, which is in parallel... The difference between AC-DC, and some more on the same theme...
This is taught to all students as part of the basic classes in science in 6'th -7'th grade or so, ie not optional... Still doesn't mean the Swedish students are much smarter than any others though...
In Sweden at least you get to learn the basics... Ie play around with batteries, lightbulbs and switches... And measure volt and ampere, ie which is in series, which is in parallel... The difference between AC-DC, and some more on the same theme...
This is taught to all students as part of the basic classes in science in 6'th -7'th grade or so, ie not optional... Still doesn't mean the Swedish students are much smarter than any others though...
#21
Ok, I stand corrected then...
In Sweden at least you get to learn the basics... Ie play around with batteries, lightbulbs and switches... And measure volt and ampere, ie which is in series, which is in parallel... The difference between AC-DC, and some more on the same theme...
This is taught to all students as part of the basic classes in science in 6'th -7'th grade or so, ie not optional... Still doesn't mean the Swedish students are much smarter than any others though...
In Sweden at least you get to learn the basics... Ie play around with batteries, lightbulbs and switches... And measure volt and ampere, ie which is in series, which is in parallel... The difference between AC-DC, and some more on the same theme...
This is taught to all students as part of the basic classes in science in 6'th -7'th grade or so, ie not optional... Still doesn't mean the Swedish students are much smarter than any others though...
#22
Cool thing is is that I learned a little something. BTW, I now know how to make your brake light flash when you are at a stop All you have to do is tie your ground, hot line of blinker, and the two blinker aftermarket wires together, as one. When you hit the blinker, whala, your brake flashes! see how useful this exercise was?
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06-08-2006 03:51 PM