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Manual CCT install - 2 problems

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Old 10-21-2007 | 07:50 AM
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Manual CCT install - 2 problems

Hey all!

Well, i'm hard at it, got them installed last night (custom pieces by your's truly), but ran out of light to finish, so here I am this morning ..... stuck!

Problem 1 - it's said to put the engine in gear and use the rear wheel to turn the engine. Yeah right, whatever you say Hercules! Anyone got another idea? I can't get the wheel to move like this.

Problem 2 - I figured I could pull the spark plugs to help with the above, but I can't get my spark plug sockets into the holes.

***I did not follow the procedure to line up TDC on either cylinder because I zip-tied the timing chains to the cam sprockets before pulling the stock tensioners. Yes, I have removed the zip-ties now that I am ready to proceed (checked 3 times to be sure - LOL!). At this point I want to double check the timing on all the cams to be sure before I put the valve covers back on, but can't get the engine to turn.

Okay, i'm going to count to 100 (because counting to ten doesn't work anymore) and try not to steal a tank from the local armed forces base to blow this bike up.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. PATIA!
Old 10-21-2007 | 07:54 AM
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try putting the bike into 5ht or 6th gear and doing it. otherwise neutral and put a socket on the crank bolt and use an extension bar
Old 10-21-2007 | 07:56 AM
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NEVERMIND!

I guess because the bike was sitting for 2 weeks waiting for parts everything just needed more "ooomph".

Modifying strategy to incorporate a second bowl of Wheaties.

But MAN this method sucks with only one person! GEEZ!

(turns wheel)
(checks mark)
(turns wheel)
(checks mark)
Are we there yet!?!??!??!

Old 10-21-2007 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by cliby
try putting the bike into 5ht or 6th gear and doing it. otherwise neutral and put a socket on the crank bolt and use an extension bar
It was in 6th, but I got it (weposted at the same time).

Where, pray tell, would I put the socket on the crank bolt? Don't wanna have to pull the side covers just yet.

Thanks.
Old 10-21-2007 | 08:03 AM
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no, there is a big quarter size cap on the left that you can unscrew and fit the socket onto that. then you can watch as you rotate thecrank. I think its a 17mm wrench so use a 1/2 in drive socket and that should be enough leverage with the plugs out and in neutral

bill
Old 10-21-2007 | 08:04 AM
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its just like the cap on the timing hole only the one in the center. you need to remove both
Old 10-21-2007 | 08:16 AM
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I was thinking "this would be a LOT easier on my CBR because there's an access port that ..... hmmmm ..... *get's 10 mm allen wrench* ..... *screw screw screw* ..... hey look at that!".



Thanks cliby!
Old 10-21-2007 | 08:20 AM
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glad it was an easy question. youu can usually pick up used shop manuals cheap on here or ebay, too. good luck
Old 10-21-2007 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by cliby
glad it was an easy question. youu can usually pick up used shop manuals cheap on here or ebay, too. good luck
It's a familiarity thing. Bike's aren't cars. Close, but not quite there.

Getting a manual from a fellow member next weekend actually. Well, as long as i'm allowed into the U.S.

Checked the rear and it's right on, perfect.

The front .... gonna check it again but it doesn't appear so perfect. Looks like it's out a tooth on both sprockets. (yes, the tensioners are installed and tensioned ) Does that not seem strange to be out one tooth on both cam sprockets?????

Checking again ..... make sure i'm viewing that mark head on.
Old 10-21-2007 | 08:38 AM
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they can be a tiny bit off due to chain stretch. One tooth is actually a lot of change - like maybe 15 degrees or so (I can't recall exactly), so if you are talking a mm or so off on the index line and the top of the cylinder, then that is probably not a tooth off.

when you check you are aligning the F index mark and the cam lobes are facing away from each other, correct?
Old 10-21-2007 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by cliby
they can be a tiny bit off due to chain stretch. One tooth is actually a lot of change - like maybe 15 degrees or so (I can't recall exactly), so if you are talking a mm or so off on the index line and the top of the cylinder, then that is probably not a tooth off.

when you check you are aligning the F index mark and the cam lobes are facing away from each other, correct?
They're okay. Gave it another turn and got the indexing mark on the crank side lined up better and it's all good. I made the mistake of bumping into the wrench on the tensioner and it threw everything off just a little.

Yes, cam sprocket marks are facing away from each other. I recognized that one pretty quick, thinking that it seemed silly that they would be read up-sde-down.

Tensioners are in, timing is now double checked, no binding or strange stuff and while I was at it I checked the valve clearance on my VTR's 23,000 km engine, and they're all within spec.

Now I can put Humpty Dumpty back together again. Thank you very much kind sir!!!!!!!!!!!
Old 10-21-2007 | 08:51 AM
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great stuff, nice job.
Old 10-21-2007 | 09:01 AM
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spark plug socket.... you need to get a really cheap one ( it'll have thin walls ) or, like i did, buy the honda one.

tim
Old 10-22-2007 | 06:17 PM
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Yup, comes with the tool kit for your bike...if you still have it.
Old 10-22-2007 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawkrider
Yup, comes with the tool kit for your bike...if you still have it.
No ****! I was wondering what that one was for! All the rest I figured out, just not that one. Okay, so I guess now I can check my plugs. HAHAHAHAA!!!!

Yet another one of those "it's too simple for me to think of" things.

Yes, this bike actually DID come with a tool kit (i'll double check with a fiche if it's complete or not) and ..... AAAAAAND ..... the original owner's manual.

My bike rocks!
Old 10-22-2007 | 09:57 PM
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Hehehe
Old 10-25-2007 | 01:35 PM
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Hell I got the honda manual and where the cam parts are its misprinted vice versa for the directions for the front and rear cams. lol I had a question about say when you got the front cylinder in time and teh marks are facing outwards, are the marks on teh rear cylinder supposed to reflect this like say if the front cylinder marks are facing outwards and level with the head surface shouldnt the rear cylinder be pointing directly at each other?
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