It looks like the crush washers were not seated properly. Seen it before.

 

What I decided to do is go back to #48 pilots and run it like that for awhile then check plugs. I can then adjust the needles if need be. I know the idle was pig rich just by the lopyness and smell. It felt 'ok' driving but I've driven two of my friends hawks and they felt much smoother in the midrange. These plugs were so dirty that I'm sure they weren't helping anything.

 

Sorry but I do have to totally disagree with you..... and calling a dyno jet kit great is a long streak in my book.

Like Tweety I have done extensive testing with the aftermarket filters and found they cause more problems than any gains that might be made by them.

Sure some folks claim that they have done ok or good with them but when looked into deeper they are either the exception or have never run a stock filter so it is hard to judge when you have not actually tried all the products.

Also by looking at your list of mods I do wonder why to still like the dyno jet stuff and recommend it because you have a pretty bastardized set up in your bike. I say this because dyno jet jets are a completely differnt size than keihin jets even if they have the same number on them.

The set up post you referred to states that 180\182 dyno jet jets were used. if you cross reference the numbers that is equivalent to running a 202.5 (or 203) and a 205 keihin main jet Carb Jet Size Cross Reference:Keihin/DynoJet/Mikuni - Honda ATV Forum this is because dyno jet used much fatter needles.

So by your list you have the equivalent of 160\162 main jets in your bike.
Which sounds strange that you would recommend running so much larger jets than what you have to run.

Then the whole extra lift hole idea. This is to get the carbs on to the main jet quicker. While it does work well on I-4 bikes I don't think this is what this big twin wants.

Neither does HRC which is what I based my set up thread on. Personally when it come to setting up Honda carbs, I believe and trust HRC much more than Dyno Jet.

So to say my set up thread is just for stock needles and a stock filter is kind of true, it is not 100% true.

I did say that you will not get much, if any improvement over the stock needles true but it will work just fine with the factory pro needles.

It works just fine with the HRC needles that I run.

I just don't think Dyno Jet will work properly with this bike. Opening the slides faster is not the answer on a engine that already tends to go rich on the front cylinder. That is why HRC saya to plug a lift hole.

Now for the filter, once again, if you just want top end power sure run an after market filter.

On a street bike, you might get it to work ok, if you want to spend the dyno time to get it right but even then you will always end up with a hole in the power band. I have done testing and Tweety has done the testing also but he does have the dyno charts that show this.

In closing I think by now I have a pretty good rep for dealing with these carbs. Sure I don't know everything but feel I have a good handle on them.

With that I will say I spent 2 years trying to get a Dyno Jet kit & K& N filter to work and never had good results. There was always a hole somewhere.

I then went to a HRC kit and was told by Moriwaki to run a stock filter. I then spent a couple of years really analyzing why the bike ran so much better and what was really going on.

Then I decided to share what I had learned in that set up thread. So I have around 4 years of personal testing in the set up I posted and stand behind it as the best place to start with the parts you can get now.

Like I said there, feel free to try what you want and I hope I don't sound like I'm trying to put anyone down or be a know it all as I have been called a couple of times.

It's just I have set up a lot of these bikes and many people think their bike is running really good when in truth it is not.

 

If you want to keep that large of a main jet you will need #45 pilots for it to run....

Then again I have set up full stage 1 engines with smaller mains than that so IMHO you will still be very rich but it is just my opinion

 

For starters you can't take a plug out of a bike that's been running in it for a long time and read it and expect it to be accurate. It's seen choke, no choke, and a variaty of different conditions.

That being said based off what you said is in your carbs for jetting I would agree that it sounds way to fat. My bike had 50 pilots and it popped really bad on decel and had a stumble in the mid RPM range. I did exactly as Hawk said in his thread. I went down to 48 pilots and plugged the one hole in the front slide and it runs great!

I have a full exhaust and a stock air filter on my bike. It's possible that with your K&N the larger mains may be a good idea. I'm just not sure. But as Hawk said I'd go one step between the two so maybe a 178 fr, 180 Rr, or just go back to the 175/178 stock set up and go from there.

 

I stand by my comments the other day..LMAO

 

Hell it's just my opinion anyways and I'm just some guy on the 'net so run what you want.

 

The reason I would choose 178f 182r is because I have a 182 already and the 178 is a stock rear. This way I can try 178f 182r and if it's still to rich, I'd only need to grab a 175 and I'd have the OEM set. If not, the 182f 185r can go back in.

Right now it has 182f 185r with a 48p. Apperently it wasn't the idle circuit loading up because now I'm idling lean with occasional popping in the airbox. Unfortunatly I have no idea where the mix screws are set because I couldn't get them out (dremel broke). Depending on where those screws are set will determine what pilots I go with. If the screws are cranked way in it was probably to compensate for the 50 pilots and it's likely the 48s would be ok if I open up the screws a bit. If they are already 2.5~2.75 turns then I'll have to go back to the 50 pilot. I'm experimenting with what I have and seeing what effects it has on the bike. Without a dyno it'll take awhile but will lead me in the right direction.

As I said, the 48s are now lean at idle but my midrange is much much smoother. Top end hasn't changed. That said, if I have to go back to 50 pilots, I might be able to drop the needles to lean out that fat midrange.

On another note, I ran a hole saw down the header to knock that lip off on the right pipe. It sounds better and seems to have even flow from both pipes. I can feel them both at the same distance away from the bike where as before I could feel the left side pushing more exhaust. I also realised my cans are empty. 0.0