Good luck with solving the problem and please post any progress in this thread.... I will of course do the same.

/P

 

I have a 98 that I bought new that now has 58,000 mi. and it's always been noisy.I replaced the original CC tensioners at 35,000 mi., as a preventive measure and it didn't quiet down at all.I do have a light rattle sound from the clutch that goes away when you pull the lever in when idling in neutral.I replaced the friction discs and steels at 48,000mi.,(the originals were like new) and the noise remained.My solution : PUT MY EARPLUGS IN BEFORE STARTING THE BIKE.

 

Well, I met with macd218 this morning, real nice guy. He had a listen and confirmed that it is not normal, and his 2003 did not make the same noise. His thoughts were that the noise is too "heavy" for it to be the lifters, and was thinking maybe a piston bearing. He wasn't real sure though.

He also gave me a good steer on a local mechanic, as the dealer I've taken it too won't work on bikes older than 10 years. They said it was borderline with mine since it's a 98.

So I'm going to pay someone when I get a bit more money saved, plus I'm out of town next week. I'll post back with the diagnosis and the damage.

 

There is maybe another angle. 1) You're new to the bike. 2) It's been fighter'd which usually means it's been frontend wrecked.

I would examine the front header pipe very carefully for any kind of dents or even smears. An exhaust leak can sound just like metal blocks being smacked together.

If you're unsure, order new donuts and see if this solves the problem. $17 or so.

 

Uh... glazed or jelly? The price sure is right.

 

they are a composite material like brake pads. You can pull up the part numbers and prices from any of the sources here on the forum. Inspect for damage first. If nothing has impacted the pipes, this whole theory goes out the window. But at least you know, it's little bitty or it's big bitey!

 

Well I just had a look and there are no obvious dents in the pipe. However, there is a spot near the top of the front pipe that looks like it was lightly scrubbed with coarse steel wool. I'm guessing that's pretty much what it would look like if the front tire hit it while it was still rotating.

What exactly are the donuts, ie, what is their technical name?

Someone else had mentioned a leak as a possible cause earlier in the thread. I don't understand the mechanics of how a leak causes an "impact" sound. Anyone wanna explain it?

edit: found this by googling "exhaust leak knock":
That's exactly what I've got: a tapping noise synced to RPMs. That quote is from a question regarding an Isuzu Trooper but I'm guessing manifold gasket is manifold. And that's what you meant by donut, the manifold gasket?

2nd edit: Is there any way to make sure that's the problem without just replacing the gasket(s) ? And is it harmful to drive it without repairing it if that is the problem?

 

If you have an exhaust leak, stuff a rag around the header collector when cold, the sound will change.
An out of wack valve can be really loud, it should be seen by a mechanic

 

My 1998 SH has had a knock that to me sounds like piston slap, mine has 18,XXX miles and I only do trackdays on the bike so I don't put a ton of miles on, but they are hard miles and the noise is the same. I recently checked the valve clearances and the left rear exhaust valve was .39mm and the spec is .27-.33mm. The rest were in spec. But now i am paranoid about the CCTs and won't be putting the bike back together until they are replaced.

 

Well I finally have enough money (I hope) to get this fixed. I called Bill at Poway Motorcycle this morning and they're booked up for about a week, plus the shop is closed this weekend. He estimated they should be able to look at it around the 11th.

Also going to have them replace the CCTs while they're in there. I ordered mine from APE on Monday, they got here Wednesday, $127 with shipping and tax. There was a cheaper option on ebay but the seller is across the country in Florida, and I was a little iffy on quality as he's selling them for about $9 less than APE each. I'd rather spend the extra $30 and know that the company will absolutely stand behind them.

I'll follow up when I get a price estimate and again when it's fixed.

 

Took it to Poway Motorcycle this morning. Bill and one of the guys there didn't hear anything, so... I'm having them replace the CCTs and check/adjust the valves, plus new valve cover gaskets, probably be a bit under $500 said and done. Having a streetfighter should save me about an hour's labor

I'm a bit apprehensive about it - I hear the noise, MacD heard the noise, they didn't hear the noise. On the other hand they're the mechanics. SWSB gave them good reviews, and they seem to know what they're doing. A lot more than me for sure.

Should be riding again by this time next week, super stoked.

 

Sounds like a VTR to me.

 

Alright, well, final followup, unless fit hits shan. Picked it up, runs fine, makes the same noise. Valves were "a few thou" out, and they put the APEs in for me. Both Bill and Bud said they couldn't hear it, so, maybe it's just my paranoia. I'm going to ride it and if it blows up, I'll just have to hope it doesn't take me with it.

Feels good to be on it again.

Prime, if you find anything out about yours, let us know.

 

my bike makes that same ticking noise when cold, when it hits norm. op. temp. it gets way quieter. i was perplexed by it for awhile but it seems to be the nature of the beast. my bike has under 2k miles on it. its an '03 and i've dumped on the left side going about 35. i don't remember the noise there before. but then again it was mint and i wasn't looking for crash damage before either. I really think its a normal noise amigo.

 

I have a 6th gear only noise which has been freaking me out since i bought it. I was unable to test ride my 98 when I bought it a few months ago but it only had 15000 miles on it and was very clean. The bike runs fantastic, shifts great, is smooth. The first time I had it in 6th gear the noise freaked me out. If I down shift the noise will go away but the second I put it back in to 6th it comes back. It seems if I am going down hill and not pulling the weight of the bike with the engine the noise is not there or very quiet. However once I begin giving it more gas or go up hill the noise is there. I also noticed the noise seems to be louder with the weight of my wife on the bike. I am thinking of taking some video going down the road so you guys can hear it. Does this sound to be the same issue you guys are describing?

 

carb slides,clutch rattle,cam chains,valve train clatter.
sounds like a superduc,vtr916 i mean vtr1000.

you should hear mine!

 

Check chain tension and clean and lube... and then listen for the noise in 6'th... as described above in the thread... A chain can make the wierdest noises...

 

I did the tensioners a few weeks ago but the noise is still happening. The noise really sounds like it is coming from the front end. I will try and lube the rear chain and see if that makes any difference.

 

[QUOTE=Reason;189012]Alright, well, final followup, unless fit hits shan. Picked it up, runs fine, makes the same noise. Valves were "a few thou" out, and they put the APEs in for me. Both Bill and Bud said they couldn't hear it, so, maybe it's just my paranoia. I'm going to ride it and if it blows up, I'll just have to hope it doesn't take me with it.

Feels good to be on it again.

I haven't listened to yours but on mine it's more a thing you can feel. I have a 98 hawk that I bought 5-02 and I have always had the knock you describe, especially noticable during warm up and especially if you up the revs and hold steady at maybe 4 thou or so rpms. It's not constant or repetitive but random. Drop throttle to idle and then increase again gradually and it will knock/thump again. It's weird and scary because you can actually feel it like a quick thump. I always wondered what it was, but after 7 years it's still the same and i just consider it part of the beast. I don't think it happens after riding it a while because I don't usually increase the revs slowly like during initial warm-up and therefore haven't noticed.

I wish i would have read this before you spent your money because there is a no cost fix for your CCT's that can be done in 15 min without removing any fairings or anything other than 2 small bolts.

thanks, nathan

 

@ nath981
can you hook me up with this fix please....i am about buying new cct·s from ape, but if there is a cheap solution for sure i would appreciate it....
Thanx

 

Try this instead of buying a new CCT
Honda Cam Chain Tensioners, yes they suck big time but there is a $1.50 fix for the later Hondas, F3 and up. If the CCT has a plug (bolt) at the outer end remove it. Buy a 6X1.25X30mm bolt and nut. Thread the nut on the bolt and install the bolt into the hole that the plug was in. Gently (fingertip pressure only) rotate bolt until it makes contact with the piston. Hold bolt with wrench and tighten nut against the CCT case. Your CCT will now be silent. Why does this fix work? The CCT in the Hondas does not have a ratcheting mechanism. It depends on a left handed threaded shaft that is spring loaded. Due to the locking pitch thread design this shaft cannot back up. Sounds good so far. Unfortunatly the shaft stays in one place so long that the constant vibration wears out the shaft or the nut that the shaft rides in. The shaft gets sloppy and does not exert enough pressure on the chain pad so the chain starts to rattle at high rpm. The bolt fix exerts just enough pressure on the threaded shaft that it prevents the shaft from vibrating and backing up thus eliminating the chain noise. Yes you will have to adjust the bolt but so far I have no historical data as to how long the time intervals are in between adjustments. Maybe some of you big milege people can provide the data. Any way, hope it prevents you from buying a new CCT. Latest data, the cheap fix has been working for at least 60K miles in a Honda F4.

NOTE: I read that the bolt size is actually 6x1x30mm, but i just took long metric bolts that fit the threads and used these. I sprayed them with lubricant so i could use finger pressure to feel contact point. Also, when you take the OEM bolt out, save the washer under the locknut and reuse to keep oil from leaking. Also, on the rear cylinder, oil will run out so be prepared to insert new bolt when you do it. I did the front first. Of course, don't turn motor over during this procedure.

let me know how you make out.

nathan

 

Thanx Nathan, i will do it this coming weekend and i keep you posted.
I love saving some serious money with good quality, easy fixes....

Peter