LED faster blinking is ok?
05-24-2010, 09:46 AM
#1
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Squid
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LED faster blinking is ok?
hi guys, i've been lurking in the dark for a while, but finally had a question i couldn't find in the search box
i recently switched to LED flush-mounts turn signals from Mototeck, and they no surprise blink faster than stock OEM bulbs...my questions is, are there any harms to just leaving them blinking faster? Will my circuit or LED bulbs burn out due to the faster rate or stronger electrical current?
Thanks in advance!
i recently switched to LED flush-mounts turn signals from Mototeck, and they no surprise blink faster than stock OEM bulbs...my questions is, are there any harms to just leaving them blinking faster? Will my circuit or LED bulbs burn out due to the faster rate or stronger electrical current?
Thanks in advance!
05-24-2010, 09:54 AM
#2
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The LED's won't burn out, but if you are using some incandescent bulbs at the same time they might (that is what I am doing, LEDs in back, bulbs in front) but probably not even them.
It might also be a legal issue depending on your state's laws.
But it isn't going to have a "stronger current" or anything like that.
It might also be a legal issue depending on your state's laws.
But it isn't going to have a "stronger current" or anything like that.
05-24-2010, 10:05 AM
#3
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Squid
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Thanks for your reply, I have both front and back as LED turn signals, but my tail and head lights are still stock, does that mean they have a chance of burning out?
I don't really mind the faster blinking, I just didn't want them to burn out or ruin the relay for some reason
I don't really mind the faster blinking, I just didn't want them to burn out or ruin the relay for some reason
05-24-2010, 10:22 AM
#4
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Nope, the Headlight and tail light are on different circuits, they will be fine.
LED's lifespan are so long that you won't burn them out unless you overvolt them or otherwise abuse them.
The blinker unit itself may burn out faster (I think it is a bimetallic strip that physically moves back and forth to blink the blinker) but how much faster is not an exact science. (mine have been blinking fast for a few years now, I still have one set of bulbs in the circuit so my blink rate is halfway between yours and stock)
You could always put in one of the equalizer type blinker units: http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1...tem=MRX_FRH1_G
that would slow it down to a normal flash rate.
LED's lifespan are so long that you won't burn them out unless you overvolt them or otherwise abuse them.
The blinker unit itself may burn out faster (I think it is a bimetallic strip that physically moves back and forth to blink the blinker) but how much faster is not an exact science. (mine have been blinking fast for a few years now, I still have one set of bulbs in the circuit so my blink rate is halfway between yours and stock)
You could always put in one of the equalizer type blinker units: http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1...tem=MRX_FRH1_G
that would slow it down to a normal flash rate.
05-24-2010, 11:56 AM
#5
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Squid
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ithaca, NY
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I got a question
On my 98 SH the choke pin used to stick all the way out and stay there, about 3 weeks ago, but now the choke doesnt stay open enough and I have to hold it about half way open. When I let go it slides slightly in and the engine flutters.
Also last night Iw as letting it warm up, and it reached the 1/4 way mark and wasnt ready yet, and i ending up taking off when it reached half temp.
Is this bad or can I tighten the choke somehow?
Also, how can I check for a bad CCT?
On my 98 SH the choke pin used to stick all the way out and stay there, about 3 weeks ago, but now the choke doesnt stay open enough and I have to hold it about half way open. When I let go it slides slightly in and the engine flutters.
Also last night Iw as letting it warm up, and it reached the 1/4 way mark and wasnt ready yet, and i ending up taking off when it reached half temp.
Is this bad or can I tighten the choke somehow?
Also, how can I check for a bad CCT?
05-24-2010, 03:09 PM
#8
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You would need to buy or make something like this: http://www.customdynamics.com/magic_blinkers.htm
05-24-2010, 03:21 PM
#9
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Superstock
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Independence, Oregon
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Huh?
I got a question
On my 98 SH the choke pin used to stick all the way out and stay there, about 3 weeks ago, but now the choke doesnt stay open enough and I have to hold it about half way open. When I let go it slides slightly in and the engine flutters.
Also last night Iw as letting it warm up, and it reached the 1/4 way mark and wasnt ready yet, and i ending up taking off when it reached half temp.
Is this bad or can I tighten the choke somehow?
Also, how can I check for a bad CCT?
On my 98 SH the choke pin used to stick all the way out and stay there, about 3 weeks ago, but now the choke doesnt stay open enough and I have to hold it about half way open. When I let go it slides slightly in and the engine flutters.
Also last night Iw as letting it warm up, and it reached the 1/4 way mark and wasnt ready yet, and i ending up taking off when it reached half temp.
Is this bad or can I tighten the choke somehow?
Also, how can I check for a bad CCT?
05-24-2010, 03:25 PM
#10
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MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lake View Terrace, CA
Posts: 5,942
I got a question
On my 98 SH the choke pin used to stick all the way out and stay there, about 3 weeks ago, but now the choke doesnt stay open enough and I have to hold it about half way open. When I let go it slides slightly in and the engine flutters.
Also last night Iw as letting it warm up, and it reached the 1/4 way mark and wasnt ready yet, and i ending up taking off when it reached half temp.
Is this bad or can I tighten the choke somehow?
Also, how can I check for a bad CCT?
On my 98 SH the choke pin used to stick all the way out and stay there, about 3 weeks ago, but now the choke doesnt stay open enough and I have to hold it about half way open. When I let go it slides slightly in and the engine flutters.
Also last night Iw as letting it warm up, and it reached the 1/4 way mark and wasnt ready yet, and i ending up taking off when it reached half temp.
Is this bad or can I tighten the choke somehow?
Also, how can I check for a bad CCT?
Maybe you should read the replies to your thread instead of just asking the same question over and over in different threads.......
05-24-2010, 09:48 PM
#12
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05-25-2010, 12:55 PM
#13
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Squid
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 29
woah...that flasher relay from superbrightleds is only HALF price of the one from customerleds...is there a big difference?
http://www.customled.com/products/fl...sher_relay.htm
vs
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...ers.htm#Table4
http://www.customled.com/products/fl...sher_relay.htm
vs
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...ers.htm#Table4
05-25-2010, 10:42 PM
#16
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I'm sure the only difference is price. I've had one on my VTR for at least 10k miles with no issues.
woah...that flasher relay from superbrightleds is only HALF price of the one from customerleds...is there a big difference?
http://www.customled.com/products/fl...sher_relay.htm
vs
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...ers.htm#Table4
http://www.customled.com/products/fl...sher_relay.htm
vs
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...ers.htm#Table4
05-26-2010, 04:17 AM
#17
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SuperBike
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Westerly, RI
Posts: 1,216
Personally, I like the faster blinking. When I see a normal blink it looks like it takes too long to signal. The faster blinking gets your attention right away. At least, that's what I think, so I haven't changed out the relay.
05-26-2010, 04:19 AM
#18
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Less load/resistance, causes the relay to think that there is an open, then it blinks faster.
Ever notice a car and their blinker is blinking fast, walk around to the front, the bulb is most likely out, less load/resistance so it flashes faster.
They do use less voltage as well, but that is not the cause of the faster blinking.
Ever notice a car and their blinker is blinking fast, walk around to the front, the bulb is most likely out, less load/resistance so it flashes faster.
They do use less voltage as well, but that is not the cause of the faster blinking.
Last edited by Erik S.; 05-26-2010 at 04:22 AM.
05-26-2010, 05:49 AM
#19
pragmatic anarchist
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Posts: 380
Can't say I ever noticed a car with it's blinker being used. Must be a Philly thing. Oh wait, just remembered the guy I followed for seventeen miles with his right blinker on. Seemed to be flashing normally. Front bulb must have been okay!
05-26-2010, 07:17 AM
#20
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He must have been visiting Philly from Phoenix then. Blinkers around here are used to indicate the age of the driver. The longer it blinks the older the driver.. I swear we have some drivers who are immortal.
06-27-2010, 03:24 PM
#22
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Squid
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 37
I hope this doesn't qualify as a hi-jack.
I have the same issue, the difference is my newly installed aftermarket turn signals are not LEDs they are bulbs as well. Does this make any sense?
The turn-signals I removed were also aftermarket flush mounts, they used small incandescent bulbs. The new ones I am replacing them with use larger bulbs (with two filaments). I do not intend to use both filaments.
When I hit the switch they blink like crazy, when I installed the old turn signal it goes back to blinking normally.
I have measured the resistances accross the bulbs:
Old bulb: 1.3 Ohm
New bulbs: 2.1/2.2 Ohm.
I assume this added resistance makes the bike think a bulb is out and fast blink is it's warning message to me. Is there something that can be done to slow the blinking down? Do I need an aftermarket flasher for it?
Thanks.
I have the same issue, the difference is my newly installed aftermarket turn signals are not LEDs they are bulbs as well. Does this make any sense?
The turn-signals I removed were also aftermarket flush mounts, they used small incandescent bulbs. The new ones I am replacing them with use larger bulbs (with two filaments). I do not intend to use both filaments.
When I hit the switch they blink like crazy, when I installed the old turn signal it goes back to blinking normally.
I have measured the resistances accross the bulbs:
Old bulb: 1.3 Ohm
New bulbs: 2.1/2.2 Ohm.
I assume this added resistance makes the bike think a bulb is out and fast blink is it's warning message to me. Is there something that can be done to slow the blinking down? Do I need an aftermarket flasher for it?
Thanks.
Last edited by kraher; 06-27-2010 at 03:27 PM.
06-27-2010, 05:38 PM
#24
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I hope this doesn't qualify as a hi-jack.
I have the same issue, the difference is my newly installed aftermarket turn signals are not LEDs they are bulbs as well. Does this make any sense?
The turn-signals I removed were also aftermarket flush mounts, they used small incandescent bulbs. The new ones I am replacing them with use larger bulbs (with two filaments). I do not intend to use both filaments.
When I hit the switch they blink like crazy, when I installed the old turn signal it goes back to blinking normally.
I have measured the resistances accross the bulbs:
Old bulb: 1.3 Ohm
New bulbs: 2.1/2.2 Ohm.
I assume this added resistance makes the bike think a bulb is out and fast blink is it's warning message to me. Is there something that can be done to slow the blinking down? Do I need an aftermarket flasher for it?
Thanks.
I have the same issue, the difference is my newly installed aftermarket turn signals are not LEDs they are bulbs as well. Does this make any sense?
The turn-signals I removed were also aftermarket flush mounts, they used small incandescent bulbs. The new ones I am replacing them with use larger bulbs (with two filaments). I do not intend to use both filaments.
When I hit the switch they blink like crazy, when I installed the old turn signal it goes back to blinking normally.
I have measured the resistances accross the bulbs:
Old bulb: 1.3 Ohm
New bulbs: 2.1/2.2 Ohm.
I assume this added resistance makes the bike think a bulb is out and fast blink is it's warning message to me. Is there something that can be done to slow the blinking down? Do I need an aftermarket flasher for it?
Thanks.
06-27-2010, 06:18 PM
#25
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Squid
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 37
06-27-2010, 06:19 PM
#26
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Squid
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It should sort this out?
Thanks.
06-27-2010, 06:23 PM
#27
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That makes no sense what so ever. By switching the leads you only change which filament is used for the blinker and which one is used for the running light. One should be on all the time and the other flashes, so you might want to check your wiring again.
06-27-2010, 09:04 PM
#28
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Squid
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 37
The bulbs have two filaments, I am not using one filament as I do not want the running lights (I live in Canada, the headlight is always on).
If I change filaments it does not affect the blink rate whatsoever, if I change wiring on the harness end it stays on just like the daytime running lights should.
06-28-2010, 01:43 AM
#29
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Yeah, and since you use a dual filament bulb, blinkers = both filaments lit, running = one lit... So obviously when you only light one up it throws of the blink rate... If your bike is wired for running light's use them... If not, wire up both filaments together as blinkers...
06-28-2010, 09:13 PM
#30
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Squid
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 37
Yeah, and since you use a dual filament bulb, blinkers = both filaments lit, running = one lit... So obviously when you only light one up it throws of the blink rate... If your bike is wired for running light's use them... If not, wire up both filaments together as blinkers...
Sadly, both filaments wired up, or one filament AND one running light and its still on fast blink mode.
Is it a matter of wiring resistors in parallel to get the resistance down to match the old bulbs?
Thanks.
