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Seems you're 'down the road' so to speak, on this, but the oil cooler I bought from Japan had those same blue fittings. Maybe search on one of the Japanese auction sites?
For me with my zx10 cooler I just kept the stock honda fittings on the motor side then adapted the oil cooler side.
Interested in seeing how the end product is.
Im doing custom lines all together.. so custom fittings on motor side (pic above), AN #6 fittings on both ends, stainless steel braided lines, titanium banjo bolts on cooler side
Seems you're 'down the road' so to speak, on this, but the oil cooler I bought from Japan had those same blue fittings. Maybe search on one of the Japanese auction sites?
Alan
Link for the cooler you bought?
I'll contact seller and see if I can get fittings separately
Same seller has what i think is the oil cooler used on the Moriwaki bikes for sale https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-VTR10...cAAOSwAspbOW6M
I'll pass as my desire to have a better oil cooler is function over name brand
On my third cooler body now... The Sertab Series 1 was re purposed in 2016 for a unrelated project so I decided to try a less pricey option that might work for others more commonly.....well that and Im semi retired now and don't drop $500 at lunch time on a whim.
The 2nd and 3rd cooler came from a 2003 Kawasaki Concours ZG1000 and 1998 Kawasaki Concours ZG1000n respectively.
The #2, 2003 cooler looked great in pics, and was either damaged in transit, or was a bait and switch.. Seller went poof after sale,so I ate $30.
#3 cooler though a early year came in overall good shape. The cooler comes with a rock guard, but that did nothing to stop 1~2mm sized rocks from getting in the fins. about an hour in the sonic tank, then an hour picking rocks out with a dull dental pick did the trick.
The motor side fittings came out pretty good. I have two more sets of lines and AN steel fittings...I'll build those at some point to have spares or what ever.
The ZG1000 cooler uses banjo bolt fittings which makes it nice, and not need adapters of any kind.
standard 14MM X 1.5 banjo bolt and #6AN / 14mm banjo fittings work perfectly, available commonly and relatively cheap.
Initial fitment in the stock 2 row location looks good..... I need to pull the springs out of the forks and check for clearance at full compression, but its looking good so far.
Do you have baseline temps to compare whether this is effective? Like your sick of me saying, when I put my zx10 8 row in the stock location it blocked enuff airflow to negate any gains. Blocked air flow to rads and no exhaust flow from cooler mean higher engine temps. YMMV but you will have to address the airflow path issue. Especially in traffic of course.
Do you have baseline temps to compare whether this is effective? Like your sick of me saying, when I put my zx10 8 row in the stock location it blocked enuff airflow to negate any gains. Blocked air flow to rads and no exhaust flow from cooler mean higher engine temps. YMMV but you will have to address the airflow path issue. Especially in traffic of course.
Yes i have two temp gauges installed,, Ambient temp and oil temp. Sadly not data recording but it does give me numbers to measure with.
How did you determine your temps were higher? Im guessing you watched the stock coolant gauge?
So three points...
A: The factory gauge is an guess at best... good for saying the coolant is hotter / colder then before... but the temp is not known, nor is the gauge likely linear .. so 4 needle widths likely is not 4 times 1 needle width.
B: Coolant temp is not oil temp..one can spike much faster then the other, so if my coolant temp increase 5 deg, but the oil temp is cooler or more stable without high spikes, Im ok with that trade off.
C: the 4 row cooler is not nearly the size of what you used, in fact its not even double the physical size of the stock 2 row. I don't think air flow blockage will be a issue with the cooler I chose.
I do understand what your point is, and it does sound like you made the right call in removing what you used...
Thanks for the insight.
Had a chance to make the mount for the cooler.. Nothing fancy this time, aluminum bar stock drilled and tapped with stainless steel thread inserts for the cooler to bar fasteners.
Reusing the stock cooler mount bracket for an easy attachment to the frame.
Trimmed off the now excess tabs that will not be used in this application. Order two new rubber idolators for the upper mount.
One oil line made, off to make the second.
This in my opinion is as large as you would want to go in this location. There is .25" clearance at full suspension compression (springs out)
Any larger, or mounted any lower and you will have contact as well as block airflow to motor and radiators.
Even in sunny Texas with limited riding in the rain, the stock chrome plated steel lines were starting to show rust spots.
If seen pics of oil lines on UK bikes that the line rusted so bad it broke in half.
So out with the old, in with the new. Stainless steel braided -6AN lines and fittings. -6AN has the same ID as the stock hoses so is a prefect replacement size.
It is a tight fit..this pic is actually no longer how I decided to mount it, but it still shows the limited room to work with.
Hose path worked out better with the fittings at the top, so I rotated the cooler and made a new mount. Such is the deal with a custom install..... Folks only see the final product and ask why its so expensiveness to "just mount a cooler for them?" Why, because it took 18 hours to work the install till it actually fit and worked as needed, three mount revisions, two hose revisions and a lot of just looking at it to get inspiration for the next move.
Three rides on it now since larger oil cooler installed.. Had to replace an O ring after the second ride when it started weeping oil at speed down the 130 Toll road...Something not seen in the leak check done post build and check at an idle.
The O ring looked ok, but was slightly undersized compared to a new one and at full oil pressure was allowing oil to push past.
So replaced both of them and 228 miles later all is well.
Observations using the OEM coolant temp gauge only as my 3 channel oil / coolant pre and post radiator temp monitoring set up has been delayed...
Temps seem to build slower to fan trip at 193 deg f , and the temps seem to hold about 10 ~12 deg f lower overall
With the OEM stock radiators I could get it to almost boil over point in stop and go traffic this summer (108 ambient temps, in direct sun light, on hot tarmac road, no wind and more stop than go)
Had a similar traffic event yesterday coming home from Austin and never saw temps above 210...
Coolant with a 50/50 mix has a boiling point of about 223 deg f at sea level.
Using a 1.8 bar (26.1psi) radiator cap raises the boiling point another 13 deg. (1 deg f for every 2 psi)
So boiling point on this bike is 236 deg f, a temp I reached twice early this summer.
Adding the larger aftermarket radiators and the larger oil cooler seems to have kept the motor about 26 deg f cooler... That folks is a WIN.
06-27-2018 | 07:16 PM
