superH

Do you happen to have that filter # handy . . .?

Thanks

 

St7317

 

I used Rotella in the FJ1200 with no problems. The SH is filled with Delo. Also no problems.

 

good info

cheers
mikstr

 

the way i look at it, if rotella was so bad myself and millions of others wouldn't use it in their diesels that go for 500k miles before rebuild and run 20:1 compression with the added heat of the oil going through a turbocharger. this stuff is designed for the long haul. i used it in the turbo talon i used to have with no problems.

 

I've always used Rotella, recently switched to Rotella Synthetic. Not sure how much difference there is, but at the price I'll use synth.

 

Anybody that has it: do you have to grind the chin fairing down with that supertech filter?

 

There are 2 supertech filters that will fit. The 7317 is the long one and yes you have to grind the chin fairing. I just removed the chin fairing for now, next time, I am gonna use the other shorter one. If you do a search, you will find the other shorter filter number.

 

Interesting... anybody know how much more oil the longer one will hold, as compared to oem?

btw, azzkicker- are you stock geared? what speed are you clutching 2nd at?

 

I've been using the long Mobile 1 (M1-110) and the long Bosch (3323) ... I think I had to grind out about 3/8" or so.

 

I am not stock geared. I have 43t in the back, which I consider a perfect all around gearing because I can redline it in 6th gear now. It clutches up real easy in 2nd between 35 and 55 mph. The lower the speed, the faster it comes up. I am bigger guy too. You gotta lean back and take the weight off the front.

 

I rode a buddy of mine with shorter gearing, -1/+2 and I clutched it up in 3rd by mistake. 2nd was power wheeliing, but it was a little too short for highway riding.

 

http://www.rotella.com/qa/answerresult.php?rowid=169

I was searching the web for more information on the Rotella oil in the SH and found this response from Rotella's experts. Thought it was interesting so copied and pasted from the web site (address above). I think I will also try it and give feedback.

Can heavy-duty diesel oil be used in motorcycles?


Motorcycle gasoline engines may not seem in the same league as the big displacement diesel engine under your hood, but they share some of the same lubrication requirements. So yes, in many cases, a premium heavy-duty universal oil capable of serving both diesel and gasoline engines is the best choice for your bike.

The high power-to-displacement ratio of a motorcycle engine means rod and main bearings are subjected to loads that are not normally found in passenger car engines. The valve train is also highly loaded, and requires extreme pressure boundary lubrication. The same can be said about gears in the transmission, which are normally lubricated by engine oil. Oil additives containing phosphorus protect these highly loaded extreme pressure areas (in both gasoline and diesel engines). Because diesel engines have higher loading of components, more of the phosphorus-containing additive is present than in typical passenger car oils. And with advanced catalyst systems for gasoline engines, the phosphorus content has been declining in passenger car oils.

Since many bike engines are air-cooled, and tend to be operated at high power outputs and speeds, their lubricating oil needs to be more resistant to high temperature oxidation. That’s another advantage of a premium universal oil. Another thing you want in your motorcycle is oil that has excellent viscosity control, so that with use it retains high temperature viscosity. Some multiviscosity grade passenger car oils, subjected to extreme loads, can quickly thin out. Their viscosity can drop to the next lower grade.

One last thing to consider is whether oil contains friction modifier additives. For improved fuel economy, most passenger car oils have such an additive. But the wet clutch in your bike doesn’t perform right with friction modifiers. Universal engine oils don’t have friction modifiers.

Be careful choosing diesel oils. Not all of them are universal. In addition to the API Service Category CI-4 PLUS for diesels, look for API Service Category SL.

Premium universal oils like Shell ROTELLA® T Multigrade are formulated for heavy-duty performance, and your bike engine has some heavy-duty challenges for oil. For optimum performance, be sure your oil is up to the challenge.

 

I have been using the short supertech filter 6607 for about 9 months now, with Mobil 1 gold cap synth.... Put about 2000 miles on it and oil is still very clear...I am getting ready to change it due to the months....I may switch to the Rotella synth to save some dough...still going with the short filter 6607 as I don't want to chop or grind any...

 

On another site I go on occasionally there is a petroleum chemist that takes the opposite side in using Rotella, Delo, etc. I found him biased since he was also an Amsoil distributor.

 

What was his stance? I find it hard to believe all these racers I talk to would use it if it was bad but who knows.

 

Hi Guys;

I ran an St 1300 two summers back. I went on the CalSci site which posts a ton info about oils and filters. I started using Delo 400 15-40..very pleased with the oil..I went to another brand of filter that slips my mind..bought them both a farm supplier..But..read more and there was some info stating that the stock Honda filter had a pressure release set up that made sure bearing recieved instant lube on start up with cold oil...The suggestion was that some aftermarket filters..filtered very well..but lacked that feature... Anybody else hear of that??

Dave

 

http://bbs.tsba.org/showthread.php?t...=oil%2C+amsoil

I am a retired Shell chemist and used to use Rotella synthetic blend until I eventually ruined clutches in my Honda PC800 and Honda Sabre. Rotella is not JASO rated for use in wet clutches. It will take several thousand miles for the clutch to begin slipping. It is not formulated for or tested in motorcycles. It is formulated for a diesel engine running at low RPM's with a 10 gallon oil sump. It is not for a high revving, wet clutch engine that shares oil with a transmission using 3 or 4 quarts. I'd say the difference in the performance of these oils is almost as big as the difference in the performance of these vehicles and that is why they were formulated the way they are.

Rotella's new API SM/CJ4 formulation is hitting the shelves today. This is the biggest formulation change for Rotella in 20 years and no one knows what this will do to motorcycles. This has been reformulated to meet the new EPA standards for the new 2007 diesel engines.

People like Rotella because it is a cheap synthetic. Most people do not realize it is a cheap synthetic because it is actually just a highly refined Group III petroleum oil and not a true synthetic like a PolyAlphaOlefin or a Polydiester chemical group IV synthetic oil.

Let other amateur riders who know little about engines or oil do the "testing". They usually are very familiar with clutch replacements and haven't figured out why yet. The pro's nor the motorcycle manufacturers use this oil. Only those less knowledgeable.

Always read your owners manual and follow their requirements. All wet clutch bikes newer than 1998 (This is when oils changed so much that JASO had to put in place this standard) specify to use a JASO MA oil or the less friction JASO MB standard. If the oil does not list these standards, it does not meet them and eventually you will be looking at a clutch replacement. Also pay close attention to the recommended oil weights. When you have it narrowed down to a few oils, a full chemical synthetic is the best way to go, followed by a group III petroleum oil synthetic, followed by a group II petroleum oil. Try to compare the specifications of the oils which can usually be found on data sheets from the manufacturers and their web sites. Look up Mobil1 car oil and Mobil1 motorcycle data sheets, and you will see big differences in the physical properties of the oils. Mobil will not recommend their car/truck oils for motorcycles that have wet clutches. They know what would happen.

Oil is cheap. Engines and clutches are expensive. Generally you get what you pay for. Motor oils today are designed for specific uses and to meet EPA requirements. Back in 1998 and earlier, it really didn't matter much which oil you used, but it does today.

 

Hmmm seems kind of strange that a racer that puts the most strain on a bike would use it if this were true. I've been using the petro one, I'll have to check the container tomorrow.

 

There's a cross reference thread on here that shows the different filters to use for our bikes and these all have the correct pressure valves.

 

Everyone has an opinion. He says one thing, the Shell person says another. If I said Valvoline, he would say Amsoil, and the other guy would say Rotella. In my current financial state I would never buy a case of Amsoil for $75. Its probably an excellent oil but is my SH gonna know its better than Rotella, or the Valvoline motorcycle oil I'm currently using? No. Like the Shell guy mentioned, the only reason Rotella doesn't have a JASO rating is due to the ash content. As long as the clutch don't slip who gives a rats derierre.
The filter threads are another thing. The dreaded FRAM filter. I use FRAM on the SH with no problems. Used FRAM years ago on my Nighthawk s. No problems. I've bought Honeywell/FRAM filters for aircraft. No problems that I've heard of.
The next thing you'll hear is that every SH has CCT problems:-D