Hi,
Just curious has to why if the cct's being too tight, would only cause the bike to stall when its warm?

 

That would depend on how over tight they were if that is the case. If they were really over tight then the problem would be there when the engine first fired up too.

If they were only slightly over tight, once the engine warms up the metal parts expand, so consequently the cam chains becomes tighter, so I was wondering if that could be maverick's problem.

I always do the final adjustment of fixed CCT's such as Ape when the engine is at full working temperature.

 

Do you solved the problem with bad iddling?

 

Good to know, mine was dying like above after the cct swap, but it was a piece of paper towel in the airbox, it still idles rough a bit when warm so I'm thinking they might be a bit tight...sucks to have to take it appart again.

 

Well I guess we can start this debate once again, but the bike does run better with the lines in place. Greg N. has done the dyno test and I just did the trial and error method but they are a good thing.

It just might be time to start another thread to explain how they work again.
The most common misconception is that they are to prevent carb icing which is incorrect. The purpose of the set up is to warm up the fuel in the float bowls (if the lines were for icing, they would be routed to the carb body, not the float bowl) which makes the fuel atomize easier.

Also the coolant flows to the carbs only when the thermostat is closed. When the bike warms up and the thermostat opens, the flow is by-passed from the carbs.

 

I disagree regarding coolant flow to the carbs. It flows to the carbs all the time. The thermostat is not a three way valve. It's either open or shut. See coolant flow pic below. We've been through this one before.

Maverick, have you checked to ensure your choke is turning off all the way. A stuck open choke will cause the plugs to quickly foul and the bike to stall. I had the same symptoms when I tried running the #50 idle jets. Also, after it stalls, pull a plug and check the condition. Black and sooty will indicate fouling which will narrow down the cause.

 

Well I guess we have to disagree on this. By using the diagram you provided I will explain how I see the system working.

We'll start with the thermostat, no it's not a three way valve, but it is a two stage set up.

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/...oup/WATER_PIPE

If you look at position #2 while its not the best pic you will see that there is a top & bottom to the thermostat (well the do run $35 and that is the reason)

When it is closed the coolant flows from the heads to the thermostat housing, then runs directly to the water pump or to the carbs (per the diagram)

When it opens the flow on the bottom is blocked and the top opens and the coolant flows to the radiators.

There are a couple of reasons why it would make no sense to leave the lower part of the thermostat open while the radiators are flowing.

First, if it was flowing, you would be taking coolant directly off of the heads and routing to the water pump, straight back into the motor. Doesn't sound like a good idea to me but by the diagram, that is what is happening if the lower circuit is always open.

Second, look at how the lines enter the water pump. Both the by-pass line enter the pump at a very bad angle to the impeller. So while the thermostat is closed the system will pump but at a reduced efficiency.

Now when the thermostat opens, you have a nice clean path to the impeller from the radiator. So the way I see things, by the angle of the impeller to the by-pass lines, the flow should reverse. If that were the case, the arrows should point both directions, but that wouldn't make much sense either because you would then be routing flow back to the radiators.

So once again, the way I see it is the coolant flows to the carbs while the thermostat is in the closed position. When it opens, the coolant is blocked from the bypass lines.