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I give up. need help or advice.

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Old 05-24-2010 | 03:14 PM
  #31  
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The washers won't fix a thing for 9k rpm @ WOT, these are part throttle fuel metering, this is all main jet territory.
One thing is unclear, do you have misfires at 9k or the power will smoothly lower limiting the RPM.
If so what kind of misfire, are both cyl dying at once, any booms from afterburning ??
1-2-3 is not weird to me, just load dependant, bad coil or aftermarket plugs could cause this, get Honda stockers and measure the primary ans secondary coil impedance, if you close the gap and it gets better that's it.
Old 05-24-2010 | 03:33 PM
  #32  
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Well... I'm not saying the problem is weird or ... I'm saying the carbs don't care what gear you are in... Meaning the carbs are not the only problem, could be the coils like you suggested... Or the sidestand like I suggested... There are others...
Old 05-24-2010 | 03:35 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Tweety
Well... I'm not saying the problem is weird or ... I'm saying the carbs don't care what gear you are in... Meaning the carbs are not the only problem, could be the coils like you suggested... Or the sidestand like I suggested... There are others...
So very true..... you also might want to check the filter inside the tank.
Old 05-24-2010 | 03:41 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Tweety
Well... I'm not saying the problem is weird or ... I'm saying the carbs don't care what gear you are in... Meaning the carbs are not the only problem, could be the coils like you suggested... Or the sidestand like I suggested... There are others...

I think one of the reasons 4th gear wide throttle is often used for road testing/jetting is that puts a much higher load on the engine. It does care what gear you are in because you are asking more of the engine to overcome wind resistance.
Old 05-24-2010 | 03:46 PM
  #35  
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Also I agree, the shims are not directly affecting 9k+ rpms... But If you are way off on the carb settings like jens, with the needles shimmed to that extent it is probably masking something else, like the wrong size main jet... If you have some balance in what you are doing, it's easier to find what's actually wrong... The further you get from balance, the effects of any small change becomes more sporadic and inconsistent...And you are likely to end up even more confused... Like looking for 200+ jet for a stock engine with slip-ons...

To Jens... Not bashing you here... Just trying to bring this topic back to reality, before it snowballs entirely... Your setup now is unbalanced to say the least, and that makes every new finding suspect... Take a step back, breathe deep and start over...

Based on your parts, I'd say F180/R182 0.40-0.60 shims on the needles and a 48 pilot jet should be plenty of fuel... Or if needed F182/R185... I doubt it needs F185/R190, but everything is possible...
Old 05-24-2010 | 06:31 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Tweety
Take a step back, breathe deep and start over...
Good point, sometimes after ruling out almost everything, one can come to a dead end. This mean either overlooked or ruled out.
Old 05-24-2010 | 10:40 PM
  #37  
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i live in sønderjyland, close to the german boarder.

k, iam gonna remove 1 washer on each of the carbs to a start. i have alrdy orderes a new pilot jet #48, but dont think that will fix anything, at 9k rmp it should do nothing, only the main jet counts there, as far as i know !

Back to the drawing board
Old 05-25-2010 | 05:18 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Jens_denmark
i live in sønderjyland, close to the german boarder.

k, iam gonna remove 1 washer on each of the carbs to a start. i have alrdy orderes a new pilot jet #48, but dont think that will fix anything, at 9k rmp it should do nothing, only the main jet counts there, as far as i know !

Back to the drawing board
What ever the problem, the larger jet may get the rear plug to burn correctly, not gray/white, and this may allow 9000+ in higher gears.
Old 05-25-2010 | 09:35 AM
  #39  
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tryed the test with wd40. and i found a leak

i cant belive it, but the rubber from the cyl and carb, leaks. It strange but the rubber looks bran new, but when i spray on it, my poor poor hawk dies few secs after it starts fine again, tryed it 2 time just to be sure, same happens, it went dead.

Only happens when the engine is warm, on cold problem aint there, so must happen becouse the rubber get warm and can move more ?

So have ordered a new pair, so can test tomorrow if that wass the problem. i damn hope this is the end.

Last edited by Jens_denmark; 05-25-2010 at 09:58 AM.
Old 05-25-2010 | 08:16 PM
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are you sure the carbs were installed correctly? it's easy to have one not seat in the whole way. i like to use spray silicone on them before install and double check visually with a good light to make sure they're both seated fully.
Old 05-25-2010 | 09:53 PM
  #41  
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Yeps i sure the are sitting correctly. i also use silicone before installing them.

My new rubber comes today, so ill find out if the problem is solved.
Old 05-26-2010 | 05:27 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Jens_denmark
Yeps i sure the are sitting correctly. i also use silicone before installing them.

My new rubber comes today, so ill find out if the problem is solved.
well then, good luck to ya. Sometimes stupid **** like that can drive you nuts. Well, not me cause I'm already there.Hahaha
Old 05-27-2010 | 09:21 PM
  #43  
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The End

i give up, driving it to the deal where i bought it, its there problem now.

I have tryed everything i can possible think off. Still the same problem, the worst part is, last day when i installed the new carb rubber, my wife just stod an looked and then said, what that bolt there ?

On the rear cyl, left side, there is a bigg engine bolt that keep it together, that one wass about 5 cm out of it hole !!!!!! i could take it out with my fingers (ARGH) not cool.

thx god i have 6 month 100% warrienty on it.

Hope i get it back fast.
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