My tranny usually lets me know when it's time for a change. The shifting gets a little notchy/sloppy. Usually around 1500-2000. This Mobil1 V-twin doesn't seem to stretch the interval like I hoped it would. I have some M1 racing 4T to try next.

 

oil mixes with a bit of petrol as the engines runs, cause the oil to become corrosive. better to change every 3000km

 

That's fine.
Also known as **** to some of us.

 

What kind of oil should I use?

 

The problem with lighter viscosity oils in motorcycle applications is that pretty much everything under 40W is Energy Conserving, and has wear-reducing additives which *may* allow a wet clutch to slip under load. With regards to an engine whose oil only lubricates the motor, not the tranny, and not one with a wet clutch, I fully agree with most, if not all, of the topics mentioned in the article linked above.

 

Yeh, those Honda engineers are pretty stupid.

 

\

Oil does not mix with gas as the engine runs.
The chemical changes that occur to motor oil that cause it to become corrosive are caused by the heat the oil is subjected to.
Synthetic oils properties are not subject to the same process.

 

After Break-in, the manual states every 4.000. I figure every 3,000 to be extra nice to my hawk.

 

I don't think they're stupid. I don't think they're infallible either. If you want to do 8k mile OCIs it's OK with me. Just remember, if that results in an out of warranty oil related failure, Honda engineers won't buy you a new motor.

And if your Honda engineer designed and specified CCTs fail, you're on your own as well.

 

You're right, but I don't think engine oil life has much in common with a particular hard part failure on a particular bike.

 

MLB;

The real reason I change my oil about every 2k miles or a little before is 'cause that's when I start feeling a difference in the shifts up through the gears.


I do know that by 1000 miles most 10w40 has turned into 10w twenty-something. I guess the manufacturers know that too and allow for it.

Still, I can change oil at 2k miles for $10 and get smoother shifts. It's worth it to me.

 

reduced viscosity is why i use 80w-90. Now I can go 10,000 miles on an oil change.

and it smells good to

 

shoot, I lied. sorry, i just go 3000 miles on 10w-40 and treat it nice (highway mileage)

 

Smells good for sure. Would hate needing an APU for cold starts though.

 

Yeah, the shear of the gears breaks it down, plus any friction material from the clutch which gets mixed in.

As for change intervals...back in the late '80s, Ford recommended 10,000 mile intervals on the Escort...and you know how many Escorts are still on the road. The car manufacturers currently list long intervals (5,000 to 7,500) to make it seem inexpensive to maintain the vehicle, but they also list in the owner's manual to change oil at 3,000 under severe use...which is every vehicle driven in Southern California or any urban area.

 

Exactly right. 3k miles for severe use plus clutch debris and trans chopping up the viscosity improvers, 2k mile OCI sounds about right to me. If you're using a high quality synthetic you can stretch that a bit but no way would I go for 8k mile changes.

I think it's smarter to pick a decent, affordable oil of the proper spec and viscosity and change it every 2k miles than it is to search for the ONE PERFECT VTR MOTOR OIL and run it thousands more miles.

My current favorite based on research, VOAs and UOAs is Super Tech 15w40 which the Walmart in Valencia still sells for $1.48 per quart.

 

Everyone's an oil expert, isn't it amazing?

I change mine whenever the ghost of Hammurabi starts speaking to my conscience.

 

I switched to AMSOIL and a K&N oil filter at the last oil change. I plan to change every 5k.

My commuter seems to like the change to synthetic. It definitely runs cooler.

At the next oil change, I'm going to try the ice coolant additive as well....before summer arrives.

If you're changing your oil before it gets dirty...that's just dumb....not to mention a waste of money....and oil. Unless you are taking weekend track days, then I could understand.

That's like topping off your tank every time you pass a gas station..."just because"

 

LOL
Wow

My post back from the dead

I switched to semi-syn last year, noticed a little bit of a difference in shifting. With that said I change every 2 to 3 k -

She runs like a beauty

 

Bottom line is FILTRATION if running full syn oils... This post can go on and on.

I've worked on heavy equipment, where they tested running a good syn oil a full season with a HIGH filtration system, it was like a stack of 6-8 toilet paper rolls in a tall can, all we changed were filters for the season and personally tested the oil (analysis) each time for contaminants. Long term outcome, I cannot attest for, but... oil was always clean.

Anybody stating a $10 oil change on a SHawk, is running recycled oil and NOT changing the filter!

I run Mobil 1 4t (10w40) oil and the "short" Mobil 1 filter for 3-4000mi. I don't analyze it, but it isn't dirty when it comes out. It still costs me $50 for an oil change...

Works out to twice a season and any more is TOTALLY RIDICULOUS!

You should see the metal floating around in the corporate jets I work on, little to no combustion contaminants, but flat out metal... They recommend the same, filters about four times to a single oil change. They run a shared sump for the gear box as well as engine (turbine and fan bearings). A combustion engine WILL create a certain amount of corrosive contaminants which will affect an engine as it sits, but c'mon, it ain't that critical!

LB