Hey guys, a friend and I are in the process of installing my APE CCTs. I've got the bike torn down right now over at his house. We've followed the steps from the how-to in the knowledge forum on installing the CCTs. We've followed the instructions word for word.

Here is the problem...

As we were removing the rear CCT he said he did hear a slightly audible "click". We're not sure if we have jumped timing or not. The "RT" lines were lined up with the indicator line on the case looking straight on as the instructions said to. The problem or what we think might be a problem is I notice after we removed the oem rear CCT that there is slack on the chain on the intake cam gear of the rear cylinder. According to the how-to this contradicts what is said about the crank holding tension and if I were to jump timing, it would be from the exhaust cam because it would be free'd of tension. I loked in the manual at some of the cylinder head areas and noticed their picture also looks like there is a little slack or that the cam chain isn't sitting into the gear teeth completely. Is this normal? We're thinking not and I'm not sure what my next step should be so I don't destroy the valves if we try to bump it over.

I was going to re-install the stock CCT but I have no stopper tool after I retract it to get it back in. It's pretty vague about installing the APE CCT as "hand tight" initially. My hands could be weaker or stronger than the next guy so the initial reference for getting it in the ballpark for tension is not clear.

Any help and ASAP would be great as I'm stuck at this potential problem right now. Please help us out guys......


TIA

 

Make sure the RT is lined up and the lobes on the cam are UP. IIRC this is not in the online instructions. All you have to do is re time the engine, which is very very easy.

RT lined up, lobes up, line up the RI and RE marks flush with the head. It tells you how to do it in the manual. If they don't line up exactly right then you may have jumped a tooth or two. Just loosen the tension from the cam chain, take off the cam holder, and set it right.

 

RI lined up flush


lobes off the valves (very important)

 

Thanks for your reply and help.

A little update....

We temporarily put the stock CCT back in place. It was a bitch as we had no stopper. We did this just so we knew we could get enough tnesion on the cam chain to allow us to get the motor lined back up at TDC. The first time when we started we had it at TDC "RT" but of course out luck was that the lobes were on the vavles causing the cam sprocket to has tension on it.

Now we've redid the timing by turning it over so we could be 180 degrees out, basically putting it at TDC but with the lobes up and not tuoching the valves, just as you said to do it.

We've lined the exhaust timing marks up flush on the sprocket and it appears my intake was out 1 tooth. So we unbolted the sprocket so we could get them timed up again. So far so good but I think the time invested, I'm going to have to install only one of the CCTs until I can tackle the other one. We'll see if he wants to help me with the front but if the front jumps timing like the rear did, I'm going to pull all of my hair out.

 

Learn from the back, because the front is a BEEATCH. Just taking the valve cover off is a chore. I would however recommend taking it off before removing stock CCT so you can be sure that the lobes are up. Other wise you in the same boat all over again.

I've been meaning to do a different white paper on CCT but am way to lazy. It's easy to get the RT lined up and be 180 off, happens a lot I think.

 

Horray we've successfully got the timing back to how its supposed to be!!!

Yup definitely have learned the take the cam cover off BEFORE you remove the CCT, even on the rear because there is no way to tell by looking at the "RT" mark thru the timing window to even see which TDC you're at. Would of been nice if Honda would of made a window in the cam cover but that's just wishful thinking LOL.

The current how-to does not say to do so and IMHO, I think its a must do procedure in installing or removing the CCTs. Otherwise you might as well go to Vegas cause its a 50/50 gamble crap shoot to know if you're at the TDC with the lobes off the valves.

It has been a long and tedious learning process but it felt good getting to know the bike when we thought we were screwed LOL. I'll tackle the front one next weekend I suppose. We were going to do it but it was getting late and I looked to see what all we would have to do to remove the front cam cover and you're right. It looks like a biyatch for sure LOL.

Thanks for your help and trying to help us. It has been fun. The good news is that the stock rear CCT was going out as that was the rattle tap tap sound I was hearing. APE CCT hushed her right up!

Thanks again Drew!

 

Always put a zip tie or two around the cam sprockets and the chain to keep it from jumping a tooth

 

Yup, just gotta have the cover off in the first place prior to removing the CCT.

During our snafu with it jumping timing we did secure the exhaust cam with a zip tie while we tried to finagle the intake cam back a tooth. Would of been successful had we been able to get enough slack without having to remove the intake cam but the guides next to the intake cam wouldn't aloow it . So our only option was to remove the cam completely and then reposition it in correct timing.

I guess it was good to learn the hard way the first time. Now I have ammo to tackle the front in a week or two

 

I'm dong my cct's next weekend.
When you have the rear valve cover off, lobes are up and are done changing out the rear, how many degrees and which way (CW, CCW) do you rotate the crank to know the FT is at TDC?? I'm trying to avoid taking off the front valve cover to verify. I remember reading this somewhere on here but can't seem to find it.
Thanks.