Handle bar weights.
#1
Handle bar weights.
When I installed new grips, the grips are slightly longer then the handle bar. If I use generic bar ends, with the expanding rubber insert that holds them on, they have to be pulled out of the bar about 1/4" to clear the end of the grip. Do the OEM bar ends extend past the end of the bars slightly?
Here's a set of OEM replacements from ebay. Does the end of the bar stop at the point indicated with the arrow?
Also, where can I find a spacer that goes on the throttle before the grip to keep the grip from rubbing on the housing? The dealer says they have no idea what I'm talking about. It goes in the area shown below.
Here's a set of OEM replacements from ebay. Does the end of the bar stop at the point indicated with the arrow?
Also, where can I find a spacer that goes on the throttle before the grip to keep the grip from rubbing on the housing? The dealer says they have no idea what I'm talking about. It goes in the area shown below.
Last edited by kickerfox; 06-04-2012 at 04:15 PM.
#2
Yes the factory bar ends have a shoulder on them. I just bought two brand new ones only to find out the factory guts have been removed from the bars. Debating weather I want to buy the new bar guts or just try to sell or return the bar ends. The more I work on my bike the more it pisses me off that the PO f'ed it up! UGH!
#3
I don't believe it came from the factory with the spacer you are talking about. vistacruise from Sound Off Recreational comes with a clear/whiteish spacer to keep the grip from rubbing on the lock. Maybe that is what was installed at one time.
#4
Yes the factory bar ends have a shoulder on them. I just bought two brand new ones only to find out the factory guts have been removed from the bars. Debating weather I want to buy the new bar guts or just try to sell or return the bar ends. The more I work on my bike the more it pisses me off that the PO f'ed it up! UGH!
I'm missing my inserts as well. I can't find any generic ebay ones I like. They're either too short, too gawdy, or sharp enough to puncture your chest. Looks like I'll be buying them.
Here's parts numbers for everything for both sides including the ends.
HONDA WEIGHT B (inner)
53105-KV3-000
2x $12.62
HONDA WEIGHT (outter)
53105-MBB-010
2x $14.96
HONDA RUBBER A
53106-MJ0-000
2x $3.22
HONDA RUBBER B
53107-MJ0-000
2x $3.05
HONDA RING
53108-MJ0-000
2x $4.18
HONDA SCREW, OVAL (6X60)
90191-KT7-750
2x $3.84
Total: $83.74 (local dealer). $63.56 (www.ronayers.com)
My bike doesn't have it and the manual doesn't show it. I'm trying to find them so I can put one on. I'm going to see if Mcmaster-Carr has any plastic or nylon spacers. I'll have to measure the throttle twist but I think a 1" would work.
Last edited by kickerfox; 06-04-2012 at 09:10 PM.
#6
Yeah and the thing about all the aftermarket ones is they are aluminum which is way to light. They are actually there for a purpose other than just to garnish the ends of your bars. The weight dampens the vibrations of the bike to lessen the fatigue on you. I once rode a friends F3 that he had busted the bar ends off both sides, where we were riding fast up to Bartlet Lake from north Phoenix. From running the bike at high RPM for a long period on that ride the vibration on my hand make them numb for about 2 days.
My other dilema is do I get the guts for the bars when I'm planning a front end swap where I won't be using these bars anyway? Though I guess I can just swap them into the new bars that I plan to fab up.
My other dilema is do I get the guts for the bars when I'm planning a front end swap where I won't be using these bars anyway? Though I guess I can just swap them into the new bars that I plan to fab up.
#7
For the bar ends, I ordered all the OEM parts and they worked. The way the OEM weights stay in the bar is a joke though. Just two tiny little tabs on a piece of spring steel. I still havent order the spacer but I'm going to. Anytime the rubber of the grip rubs the housing it sticks and squeaks. I'd think I had a frayed throttle cable if I didn't know better. I hate not having a silky smooth throttle.
#8
Not following you. There should be an aluminum bar with a couple of rubber dampers that slides into the tube. There is a little metal taba that goes around or hooks to the outer rubber gromet, then the end weight has a screw that screws into the aluminum bar. Is this not what you've got?
#9
Not following you. There should be an aluminum bar with a couple of rubber dampers that slides into the tube. There is a little metal taba that goes around or hooks to the outer rubber gromet, then the end weight has a screw that screws into the aluminum bar. Is this not what you've got?
The spacer I'm talking about is placed on the throttle before the grip goes on to prevent the grip from rubbing on the housing. Second pic first post.
Last edited by kickerfox; 06-13-2012 at 07:31 PM.
#10
There really needs to be some gap between the grip and cable housing.
You need more space. What worked for me? Grind off the locating pin on the top of the cable housing, then the whole thing will slide up the bar. You will probably need to do the same thing for the kill switch in order to get enough space.
Once that is done, reposition the grip so there is an air gap. Then slide the kill switch up against the brake master, followed by the throttle assembly. Install the bar end and then pull the throttle back against the bar end and position it so that there is no friction when rotating the throttle. Tighten the bolts and then reposition the kill switch where it suits you.
You need more space. What worked for me? Grind off the locating pin on the top of the cable housing, then the whole thing will slide up the bar. You will probably need to do the same thing for the kill switch in order to get enough space.
Once that is done, reposition the grip so there is an air gap. Then slide the kill switch up against the brake master, followed by the throttle assembly. Install the bar end and then pull the throttle back against the bar end and position it so that there is no friction when rotating the throttle. Tighten the bolts and then reposition the kill switch where it suits you.
#11
I have a gap but I use soft grips that will flex when the edge of my thumb presses on it. Unless the grip was rock hard, it's going to rub. A simple shim will fix the issue and slide easily against the twist housing.
#14
If there is a small gap between the grip and the throttle housing and it snaps back when you let go that's all you should really need. If it rubs a little when your thumb is on it that shouldn't really matter being you're gripping it and twisting and that would overcome any drag. You shouldn't need to trip the locating pins off at all either. If you have an aftermarket grip and it's to long sticking out the end hitting the bar end, just trim some of the grip off.
#15
If there is a small gap between the grip and the throttle housing and it snaps back when you let go that's all you should really need. If it rubs a little when your thumb is on it that shouldn't really matter being you're gripping it and twisting and that would overcome any drag. You shouldn't need to trip the locating pins off at all either. If you have an aftermarket grip and it's to long sticking out the end hitting the bar end, just trim some of the grip off.
#16
Yea, I tried those gummy grips once. They felt nice on the hands, but wear out too fast and move around in undesired ways... for me anyway.
#17
Beer some gettt greezy and nasty and wear out fast. However some work quite well.
Kicker, not sure what to tell you. Maybe grip the throttle a little different. You might look at some of those cheap throttle locks as some of them come with just the piece you're looking for. Might see if you can buy a replacement. The whole locks aren't that expensive so I can't imagine if they'll sell that part that it'd be much at all.
Kicker, not sure what to tell you. Maybe grip the throttle a little different. You might look at some of those cheap throttle locks as some of them come with just the piece you're looking for. Might see if you can buy a replacement. The whole locks aren't that expensive so I can't imagine if they'll sell that part that it'd be much at all.
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