hi, ive got my tank off and the fuel tap is set to half way between on and off, where should it be ? in the middle,alway clockwise or alway anticlockwise?? its not very clear as to which is on or off.

 

Not in the middle, that's all that I recall.

 

I checked the Haynes and Honda shop manuals but I couldn't find any reference to the direction in which the tap must be turned to turn it on or off. As lazn said, it should not be in the middle position. It should be rotated fully one way or the other. So I lifted the tank on my 2001 and checked. Turn counterclockwise fully as you're looking toward the back of the bike to open. Turn fully clockwise to shut it off.

 

thanks guys, just figured it out, i put a vacume pipe to the tap and tryed it both ways, no gas in the fully clockwise position,but lots of gas counterclock wise. cheers and thanks for your help.
john

 

Oh, and do put the vacuum pipe on the stub you can't see, not the one you can :-)

I had it on the wrong one, and it served fuel to the front carb but not the rear.

Fair confused me, that did

Paul.

 

I took my tank off to have the paint touched up last week, since I got it back and returned it to the bike it ran for 5 mins then hasn't started since, I am certain I have all the little hoses correct and fuel lines, and my fuel tap is turned all the way anticlock wise and it still won't start. was running fine before. Any ideas..?

 

Be sure both the larger hose tank over-fill hose is connected as well as the small tank vent hose which, if still in the OEM configuration creates a P-trap and does not vent properly.

Did the painter paint closed or tape closed the vent hose? open the gas cap while starting (with a fully charged battery).

Is gas getting to the carbs; open the float bowl drain screws 2 turns with a rag under the drains to verify? Is the choke operating?

I could go on...

 

Tried this, all the hoses are on correctly,span it over until the (fully charged) battery was flat, it didn't even fire, it is as if it is totally airlocked. Where is the air intake situated so as can try a spray of ether..?

 

You should have a look at this post to confirm your hoses are correct:

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ix-pics-19843/

Wouldn't be the first time.

 

You do not I repeat you do not want to use ether

You need to learn about the carbs that choke etc

It's gotta be something simple if it's not ignition

 

You do not I repeat you do not want to use ether

You need to learn about the carbs that choke etc

It's gotta be something simple if it's not ignition

 

Okay so no ether. I am certain all the hoses are on correctly, and just to be sure later I will check all the fuses, I will remove one of the fuel pipes to check fuel is flowing, and will attempt to remove one of the plugs to check there is a spark, but am convinced it is fuel relataed as it ran perfectly before I removed the tank. Failing that it will have to go to the shop because I don't have anywhere to work on it if I have to start removing body work, airboxes etc. Thanks fellas, your help is greatly appreciated.

 

Reread my suggestions

No need to remove fuel hose just back out both float bowl drain screws.

Before to ground plug when cranking over or you'll blow the coils.

you can just gently suck on the petcock vacuum hose to initiate flow and check petcock operation

Do you have the shop manual?

 

I don't have a work shop maunal, I can't even see the float bowls let alone the drain screws, I can't see where the vacuum hose joins the carb neither, all obscure by the frame work, the problem I have is space, I don't have anywhere where I can start removing body work and airboxes etc, am literally working on it in the street even though it sleeps indoors in a parking space. I think it is probably better going to the shop.

 

A shop manual can be downloaded possibly for free

Nothing needs to be removed to drain the bowls.

You need to do your due diligence on the forum with searches

Your frustration is from ignorance because you apparently are too accustomed to instant gratification.

Do the work and you will be rewarded with the satisfaction of accomplishment

 

A shop manual can be downloaded possibly for free

Nothing needs to be removed to drain the bowls.

You need to do your due diligence on the forum with searches

Your frustration is from ignorance because you apparently are too accustomed to instant gratification.

Do the work and you will be rewarded with the satisfaction of accomplishment

 

Right this is exactly what happened if it helps any. I put the tank back on the bike with the vacuum hose incorrectly connected to the breather hose spigot and the the breather connected to the vent on the bottom of the pump, I started the bike and it ran for a few minutes then cut out, I then endevoured to find the correct hoses and spigots, connect the correct vent hose to the vent on the tank and connected the vacuum hose to the correct spigot on the back and side of the pump, hasn't started since.

 

First of wall it's not a pump, what I believe you are referring to is a vacuum operated fuel supply valve most often called a petcock.

It is simply and on off valve.

You may have damaged the petcock

It can be very easily tested

The diaphragm inside may have been damaged by gasoline sometimes you can take it apart and clean it and reinstall it but if you're going to do that it's best just to replace the diaphragm and spring. the diaphragm also serves as a gasket for the 2⁄2 of the petcock, possibly OEM rebuild kits are available don't buy the whole thing because after market has kids available some fit some don't do your research and find out which ones fit

Your obviously going to need to drain the fuel out of the tank it's completely as possible turn it upside down remove the petcock and you're gonna replace the strainer screen in a O. ring that seats the petcock

Now is the time to inspect the interior of the gas tank with the petcock and even remove the fuel filler cap which only entails 3 of the 5 screws if I recall correctly

If there's rust that's well adhered don't worry about it but if you can easily scrape with a long hemostat and a cotton rag with acetone on it then you need to clean the inside of the tank and recoat it.

I could go on and on after 50 plus years of wrenching on everything that has an internal convention engine and vehicles, ground and air that don't use that power source but I can't relay this to you

you will have to pay me by the hour 😎

 

It is running, thanks to you all, I checked the float bowl drains and there was fuel in there, but I thought I would check all the hoses again, dropped down into the engine was the little vacuum pipe still attached to the rear carb, so pulled off the pipe I though was the vacuum pipe, connected it tried it and after a few spins it fired up, now starts first prod. Thank you for help, I would never have got it going without it.

 

Somehow you disconnected the supply vacuum line to the petcock from the rear cylinder

Get yourself a manual that's 1 of the 1st things you check