In the thread I linked here, there's a description of how to lift the front of your fuel tank with strap.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ank-off-20834/

While the method described makes sense and I'd like to use it, there's a metal tab on the back of my tank that I think would prevent the tank from pivoting up that high.

Am I overlooking something, or is there more than one tank design?

I have a 2002.

 

Well, if you have the original tool-kit for the bike, it contains a "U" shaped piece made from the same stock as an allen key... That piece goes in the hole for the rear bolt, and allows you to lift the tank, and pivot it back...

Without it, you are correct, it won't work at all... You could duplicate it though, but it needs to be strong...

 

And/or bend the tab.

 

I use telephone wire. The copper kind not the fiber optic.

 

That makes sense and I am aware of the U shaped tool. But in the thread I referenced, at least one contributor said you just loosen the rear bolt and pivot. That's what I did not think would work & assumed I missed something.

Thanks

 

I've lifted the tank with only the strap as described. It will go as high as Gregw's pic shows, but stops at the tab you are asking about.

 

10-4 all that. I'll give it a go this weekend.

My bike's P.O. "modified" the air box lid & snorkel with what may well have been a bench grinder... or some medieval tools. I got an unmodified lid from a forum member to replace it with so it'll be a good opportunity to try this out.

 

Wait, that's what it's used for? I always wondered what the heck that thing was.

 

Heh... It's in the manual... But then again, you are male, so no reading manuals... I just broke the rules and read it since it pissed me off not knowing what it was for...

 

Sweet! This trick saved me a bunch of ARRRRGGGHHH-RA-VATION yesterday. Woo-hoo! Changed airbox lid no sweat.

 

The method of lifting the front of the tank is a good one for certain applications, however to make it easier to remove the gas tank, cut the 2 gas lines in an accessible location i.e. approximately 10" (25cmm) from the end of the hoses and installed quick disconnects. Those 2 lines were always a pain in the *** to remove or install. Don't make the mistake I made of shortening the hoses to make up for the length of the quick disconnects, the extra length is helpful in getting your hands in there.
The next time you do a carb sync, add a T splitter to the vacuum lines going to the carbs and run 2 short lines off the T to the right side of the engine. Tie wrap them together to make a neat job. The lines are always accessible for syncing the carbs without removing anything. I simply insert fine thread screws in the end of the hoses to prevent a vacuum leak.
As for the carb sync tool, insert 2 small restrictors in the lines to smooth out the movement.

 

Thank you for that experience. I had thought about quick disconnects for tank removal, but the strap method yesterday was a "bird in the hand" for a job I needed to do. Where did you find the Q/Ds if I may ask?

Not sure I follow the carb synch advice exactly in my manual but I basically get your drift. Once a set of synch vacuum tubes are in, leave them in place blocked off. The blocked off tee would work on the rear vaccum line since it signals the petcock, but I think I would just add a permanent line to the front port where the little blocking bolt normally goes and plug it without a tee?

 

Correct, or just leave the nipple, and use a cap to block it... Getting a hand in there to swap a hose is a snap compared to playing with the damned bolt...

 

I use a 14" 1x1 legth of timber as a tank prop - plus installed quick release fittings for the vacuum and breather hoses - and added more easily accessible splitters to the fuel hoses (make sure the ID bore is the same as the fuel hose)

Pics MobileMe Gallery

 

Thanks for the pix, I notice also yours has a handy little lever on the petcock. Mine just has a square post I have to turn w a open end 8mm. I have plenty of 1x1.. now just got to find a source for quick disconnects.

 

I 'borrowed' the petcock lever off a Honda XL1000V Varadero.

The problem with quick realeas couplings I could find that the O'rings* weren't rated for gasoline plus I couldn't readily find any that were 10mm ID bore to match the fuel hoses. So I just used what I could find and used for breathers and vacuum.

* Viton seals needed for fuel. There are apparently some large bore quick-release connectors but very pricey!

 

I purchased them from a local shop. They come from Motion Pro - Quick Disconnect Couplings. You need the 5/16"single shut off type.

 

Cool. I am reading all kinds of kudos for that outfit lately. I'll check it out, thanks again.