EDIT: Feeler gauges found. Interesting findings for sure...

Exhaust: Both .30 mm, set to spec.

Intake: .15mm and... .23mm. uh oh. Why I didn't set this correctly first is beyond me haha! Still, would this cause a compression leak? This just means that the valve is seating way too early, correct?

 

Lazn- that's what the rear cylinder looks like when it's set to TDC, the front they're pointing up and out. I learned this from about an hour of confusion back in January!

 

From looking down the spark plug hole, carbon deposits are DEFINITELY a possibility. Maybe try running some cleaner through it such as BG 44k through it? Or take the top casing off and inspect it manually... have to get a new gasket for this I think, though, correct?

 

Did this- not 100% sure I did it correctly, but results pointed toward leak in the top end as the pressure did not change...

 

They do on the rear head. On the front they face out.

 

Well then the problem is valve related then.

 

They are supposed to look just like that. I just pulled mine out and re-installed them to reset the timing. It was pretty easy, just pull the guide off, loosen the cam guides/holder bolts evenly across all three bolts on each cam guide, wire the cam chain to the subframe or something, pull your CCT and then holding the chain up remove the cam's with the cam gears still attached, set those aside, (your RT mark should be lined up with the knock) and since I didn't know where my piston was re spun the engine one full turn back to RT and then replaced the cams so the RI and RE we lined up with the lip of the head, align so once tension applied the RI and RE are where they need to be, and then reinstall your CCT. That is if you don't know where your piston is and you're trying to reset your timing.

It sounds like something's way off however with your compression. I think you've already done the wet compression test and determined it wasn't the rings but your gasket?

According to my text book "Loss of compression results in hard starting, loss of power and possible wet or fouled plugs." So your compression in the cylinder that's running better than the other but is still wetting your plug is also indicating that compression in that cylinder isn't where it needs to be, sounds like both cylinders are having compression issues...

If you haven't done the wet compression test, "add a small amount of clean engine oil into the cylinder and recheck the compression readings. If compression increases to more than the previous reading, inspect the cylinder and piston rings. If compression remains low, check the valves, valve seats, and cylinder head. Other possible causes of low or uneven cylinder compression are;
-Faulty valve mechanism
-Incorrect Valve clearance
-Bent, burned, or sticking valves
-worn or damaged valve seat
-Incorrect valve timing
-Broken valve spring
-Faulty hydraulic valve adjuster
-leaking or damaged head gasket
-warped or cracked cylinder head surface
-worn or damaged piston rings
-Worn Piston or cylinder
-piston ring stuck in ring groove

So I wouldn't run out and buy a new head gasket just yet unless there's other indications of a head gasket failure, like milky oil... Check the list above first and cancel out any that are not an issue. I bet you find what's wrong going through part by part... Anyway, hope that helps a bit, I'll check back after class...

Blink

 

Gotta take a break and to actual paying work for awhile...

Pretty sure to do anything valve related, I need to get a new head gasket anyway still strategizing the next assessment though

 

Well for the lash to open up would mean the valve isn't seating back into the head for some reason.

So no the valve isn't closing early, more likely it is being held off the seat by something, which would cause a compression leak.

 

Would you recommend taking the head off and inspecting it then? Left side of the intake looks like the culprit...

Hypothesis: plane ole carbon buildup! Let's test it later this evening!

Edit: By heads I meant top engine cases haha

 

Is that the same side as the valve that the clearance opened up on.

Though at this point it would be a good idea to pull the head and figure out what is happening.

 

Yep, same side and all- that's actually the only reason I'm saying it's the left intake one causing problems. Just figured I'd give a hypothesis for kicks before I open it up. It'd be cool to get in there, see it not seating correctly, and going, "yep- that's what we kinda figured"