Fine Tuning Carb Q.
04-15-2013 | 08:14 PM
#31
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~ 35-50mph ~ 3100-3900rpm. With 1/8th - 1/4qtr throttle or less crusing ~ 2nd or 3rd gear.... = popping on deceleration and surging. 8541Hawk suggested I richen the needles one clip f & b which helped greatly, but there is still some surging and popping on deceleration, issue is worse while cold and choke helps so I'm thinking I'm lean in that area, however I'm wondering should I shim .020" or move another clip on the DJ needle...hmmmm.
I was thinking richen the front .020" to make shims on front and back even? Hollar!!!
Last edited by WhOrD; 04-15-2013 at 08:22 PM.
04-16-2013 | 12:14 AM
#32
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Raising the needles made it better. You still have some lean decel popping and a bit of surge as it comes on the needles. Time to add a shim, front and rear.
The throttle wide open does not necessarily mean the slides are fully open. The slides open progressively, as the RPM increases. That is the main point of CV carbs.
The throttle wide open does not necessarily mean the slides are fully open. The slides open progressively, as the RPM increases. That is the main point of CV carbs.
04-16-2013 | 02:27 AM
#33
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The popping on decel could be exhaust leaks, so make sure all the seals are good with no blowing to rule that out. Also make sure that the carbs are secured on and the clamps around the carb rubbers are secured nice and tight. A lean condition can also cause some popping/spitting through the carbs, and you say it improves with a bit of choke, so your on the right track. A clip position may be a bit too much so maybe try adding a washer as it's an in between (a bit like moving 1/2 clip).
But before you add any washers or play with the slide needles. What's you rev needle doing, are there any fluctuations. Is it hanging at all before dropping down to idle speed. Or falling below idle speed and creeping back up
Once the bike warms up to full operating temp the needle should raise smoothly and fall back directly to idle without any hesitations or falling below your set idle speed. If it hangs it's lean at idle at that point, and if it falls below then it's rich. I'm thinking you mixture needs to be richened 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. You would be surprised how much even an 1/8 of a turn can make quite a difference when fine tuning. Especially with these great big beast of carbs.
(:-})
But before you add any washers or play with the slide needles. What's you rev needle doing, are there any fluctuations. Is it hanging at all before dropping down to idle speed. Or falling below idle speed and creeping back up
Once the bike warms up to full operating temp the needle should raise smoothly and fall back directly to idle without any hesitations or falling below your set idle speed. If it hangs it's lean at idle at that point, and if it falls below then it's rich. I'm thinking you mixture needs to be richened 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. You would be surprised how much even an 1/8 of a turn can make quite a difference when fine tuning. Especially with these great big beast of carbs.
(:-})
Last edited by cybercarl; 04-16-2013 at 02:31 AM.
04-16-2013 | 12:41 PM
#34
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Raising the needles made it better. You still have some lean decel popping and a bit of surge as it comes on the needles. Time to add a shim, front and rear.
The throttle wide open does not necessarily mean the slides are fully open. The slides open progressively, as the RPM increases. That is the main point of CV carbs.
The throttle wide open does not necessarily mean the slides are fully open. The slides open progressively, as the RPM increases. That is the main point of CV carbs.
Cybercarl: After slotting the mixture screws I was better able to adjust them and started over. Idle is fine, revving is fine. I am weary of adjusting the pilot mixture screw anymore as my idle is good and I was thinking my issue is mainly on the needle given the speed / gearing / rpm range / throttle amount?
Its the low speed lower rpm little bit of throttle cruising around town behind vehicles @ 35-50 mph in the ~3000-4000 rpm range 1/8th - 1/4qtr throttle.
04-16-2013 | 01:58 PM
#35
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With 3 shims you're getting close to 1 notch on the needles, but basically you know you re getting close to having it mapped correctly, and it still seems to be on the lean side.
I agree, you should not mess with the idle screws any more. Once the throttle plates open off idle, the contribution from the idle jets is miniscule
Your choice about raising the rear needle and removing the shims, or adding a 3rd shim. the point is to make incremental steps in the right direction. I believe Mike is correct. You should adjust both front and rear, at this point (add a shim to the front as well).
I agree, you should not mess with the idle screws any more. Once the throttle plates open off idle, the contribution from the idle jets is miniscule
Your choice about raising the rear needle and removing the shims, or adding a 3rd shim. the point is to make incremental steps in the right direction. I believe Mike is correct. You should adjust both front and rear, at this point (add a shim to the front as well).
Last edited by RCVTR; 04-16-2013 at 02:00 PM.
04-16-2013 | 02:23 PM
#36
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I am weary of adjusting the pilot mixture screw anymore as my idle is good and I was thinking my issue is mainly on the needle given the speed
But go ahead and raise the needles a little if that is what you feel is best, after all we can only go by what you tell us, and you know how it's running so you have to use your judgement. I'm sure you could do with the practise with the diaphram springs
raise the needles, it can only do one of two things, make it better or worse. It's all good, treat is as a learning curve. There's only one way to learn about carb tuning and that is to play around and experiment and see how one thing affects another.Moving the needles will also affect the pilot and the mains slightly as they overlap, so you may have to adjust the fuel screw to compensate anyway. Dont forget to do a carb sync/balance after any carb adjustments/changes.
(:-})
04-16-2013 | 03:23 PM
#37
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Carl is right about adjusting mixture with the low-speed mixture screws in combination with pilot jet size. Since everything overlaps, there is no single right answer, but the finest tuning adjustment comes from adding fuel to the pilot circuit via the mixture screws.
Good info here:
CV Carb Tuning Procedures
Good info here:
CV Carb Tuning Procedures
04-16-2013 | 04:45 PM
#39
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So what you are all telling me is....you don't have an 100% answer and it's up to me to figure out the fine tuning....damn you guys to hell!! lol
Okay I'll start with shimming the front and back +1 .020" shim front and back.
I'll then warm he bike up by riding it around until the needle is pinned in the middle, reset the idle, re-synch the carbs' and if it's still not right, I'll figure it out from there......
Case & Point: I've learned ALOT in a few months as a new rider....enough so that my next bike will be a 2013 model financed and with a dealership warranty.....I've learned enough to know technology and advancements are awesome...but knowing WTF you are doing is also very important.
8541Hawk stated it best: "Tuning carbs is Black Magic"
Okay I'll start with shimming the front and back +1 .020" shim front and back.
I'll then warm he bike up by riding it around until the needle is pinned in the middle, reset the idle, re-synch the carbs' and if it's still not right, I'll figure it out from there......
Case & Point: I've learned ALOT in a few months as a new rider....enough so that my next bike will be a 2013 model financed and with a dealership warranty.....I've learned enough to know technology and advancements are awesome...but knowing WTF you are doing is also very important.
8541Hawk stated it best: "Tuning carbs is Black Magic"
04-16-2013 | 05:23 PM
#40
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So what you are all telling me is....you don't have an 100% answer
Black Magic, YUM Tuning carbs could even be called a Black art.
(:-})
04-17-2013 | 12:27 AM
#41
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So, when you are humped over the bike, wrestling the carbs back into the boots and trying to get a wrench on the band clamps and hooking up the throttle cables with your butt-crack showing, remember, you are an artist!
04-19-2013 | 11:00 AM
#42
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Update:
Added one more .020" shim to front and back. The surging is ALL but gone. Popping on decel has been reduced but is still there.
Perhaps instead of 2x .020"front 3x.020"back I can move to 3x.020 front and 1x.020back while also moving the clip one step richer for the back.
Also: I did experience my first "carb fart" today. What an interesting .....thing.... I'll have to research "carb farts." It happened only once during ~45 seconds of constant cruising speed ~3500rpm ~40 mph with very minimal throttle simply holding speed. My bike just doesn't want to cruise at this speed / rpm range around town where I spend 80% of my riding time.
At this point I still don't want to adjust the idle mixture screws as each current change is moving in the right direction.
**I believe I have a very small exhaust leak. I'll look into this over the weekend.
****Exhaust = Indigo full length exhaust.
Added one more .020" shim to front and back. The surging is ALL but gone. Popping on decel has been reduced but is still there.
Perhaps instead of 2x .020"front 3x.020"back I can move to 3x.020 front and 1x.020back while also moving the clip one step richer for the back.
Also: I did experience my first "carb fart" today. What an interesting .....thing.... I'll have to research "carb farts." It happened only once during ~45 seconds of constant cruising speed ~3500rpm ~40 mph with very minimal throttle simply holding speed. My bike just doesn't want to cruise at this speed / rpm range around town where I spend 80% of my riding time.
At this point I still don't want to adjust the idle mixture screws as each current change is moving in the right direction.
**I believe I have a very small exhaust leak. I'll look into this over the weekend.
****Exhaust = Indigo full length exhaust.
Last edited by WhOrD; 04-19-2013 at 11:09 AM.
04-19-2013 | 01:23 PM
#43
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I believe I have a very small exhaust leak. I'll look into this over the weekend.
I just noticed you got a full exhaust system so that will make tuning a little extra tricky. I think you may find with the full system it will be leaner on the pilot circuit than if you only had slip ons. You may even get away with 50 pilots which is why Factory Pro supply 50's. And the carb fart suggests your a little lean still on the bottom end.
If you going to swap the washers about and move needle clip positions , where ever you end up make sure the rear ends up as being IIRC .5 higher than the front according to hawks set up.
But if you don't want to touch the fuel screws then your never going to get it right and will have something somewhere not quite right. You will just end up chasing that one glitch only for another to appear somewhere else. You need to find an even balnce between the bottom, middle, and top. So needle being in the middle will have and affect on the pilot and mains.
You could just stick the bike on a Dyno for one run, that would soon show you where everything is at and where things need changing.
(:-})
04-19-2013 | 01:40 PM
#44
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That will cause your popping on decel.
I just noticed you got a full exhaust system so that will make tuning a little extra tricky. I think you may find with the full system it will be leaner on the pilot circuit than if you only had slip ons. You may even get away with 50 pilots which is why Factory Pro supply 50's. And the carb fart suggests your a little lean still on the bottom end.
If you going to swap the washers about and move needle clip positions , where ever you end up make sure the rear ends up as being IIRC .5 higher than the front according to hawks set up.
But if you don't want to touch the fuel screws then your never going to get it right and will have something somewhere not quite right. You will just end up chasing that one glitch only for another to appear somewhere else. You need to find an even balnce between the bottom, middle, and top. So needle being in the middle will have and affect on the pilot and mains.
You could just stick the bike on a Dyno for one run, that would soon show you where everything is at and where things need changing.
(:-})
I just noticed you got a full exhaust system so that will make tuning a little extra tricky. I think you may find with the full system it will be leaner on the pilot circuit than if you only had slip ons. You may even get away with 50 pilots which is why Factory Pro supply 50's. And the carb fart suggests your a little lean still on the bottom end.
If you going to swap the washers about and move needle clip positions , where ever you end up make sure the rear ends up as being IIRC .5 higher than the front according to hawks set up.
But if you don't want to touch the fuel screws then your never going to get it right and will have something somewhere not quite right. You will just end up chasing that one glitch only for another to appear somewhere else. You need to find an even balnce between the bottom, middle, and top. So needle being in the middle will have and affect on the pilot and mains.
You could just stick the bike on a Dyno for one run, that would soon show you where everything is at and where things need changing.
(:-})
Sounds like I could go a little "richer" on the pilot mixture screws. I'll adjust them a quarter turn (1/4) out.
I have not touched the exhaust since purchasing the bike, If this system uses specific gaskets I'll replace them ASAP.
I looked into a local dyno, however the two I called closest to me do not work on carb. bikes. Instead I should just ask them to run the bike through the motions and provide me with the print out. I'll post it and adjust from there.
Thank you Cpt. Carl
04-19-2013 | 02:08 PM
#45
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correct, you not asking them to "work on your carbed bike" For one it would be $$$$$ as it takes so long to get to the carbs..
You just want HP and TQ graphs and AF graphs With that, proper educated recommendations can be given, vice, wild *** educated guessing
You just want HP and TQ graphs and AF graphs With that, proper educated recommendations can be given, vice, wild *** educated guessing
Thank you for the information on keeping + .5 on the back.
Sounds like I could go a little "richer" on the pilot mixture screws. I'll adjust them a quarter turn (1/4) out.
I have not touched the exhaust since purchasing the bike, If this system uses specific gaskets I'll replace them ASAP.
I looked into a local dyno, however the two I called closest to me do not work on carb. bikes. Instead I should just ask them to run the bike through the motions and provide me with the print out. I'll post it and adjust from there.
Thank you Cpt. Carl
Sounds like I could go a little "richer" on the pilot mixture screws. I'll adjust them a quarter turn (1/4) out.
I have not touched the exhaust since purchasing the bike, If this system uses specific gaskets I'll replace them ASAP.
I looked into a local dyno, however the two I called closest to me do not work on carb. bikes. Instead I should just ask them to run the bike through the motions and provide me with the print out. I'll post it and adjust from there.
Thank you Cpt. Carl
04-19-2013 | 02:14 PM
#46
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have not touched the exhaust since purchasing the bike, If this system uses specific gaskets I'll replace them ASAP.
You don't want the dyno tech to work on your carbs as you cutting your cost down doing it yourself and probably end up doing a better job. Just use the dyno as a tool, get a single run and print out and then you will see exactly what is going on with the carbs and can adjust accordingly and go back for another run. Otherwise your just doing it by the seat of your pants with an element of guesswork and could end up removing the carbs and tweaking things a dozen times. By using the dyno not only do you see what needs adjusting but it's quicker to get to where it needs to be.
Just say to the dyno tech when you get there that your doing your own carb work and are only interested in the Air fuel ratio and how things are running and are not concerned about BHP (bragging rights) and then it's less likely they will tweak the dyno to give a good max BHP. Some dyno techs will do this just so the customer walks away with a smile .
If your lucky they might do cheap rates for a run on certain days. My local one does it for £10 ($15) a run on Saturday mornings. Before going for any run though, make sure your chain tension is set properly, tyre pressures are correct and check your fluid levels are all OK (:-})
04-19-2013 | 02:25 PM
#47
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04-19-2013 | 04:08 PM
#48
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Though with my wife having just taken a job at my local Honda dealer where I use the DynoJet dyno... perhaps a employe discount is available..
I think they only do the cheap runs on Saturday mornings as they don't get much other business then. Iv'e never quite figured out why dyno runs cost so much money for what it is, unless it's because the machines cost a fortune.
(:-})
04-19-2013 | 04:47 PM
#49
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I noticeed that in your thread the other day. By the way, well done on the carb rebuild. (can't find a clapping smilie) so Clap Clap. Good job.
I think they only do the cheap runs on Saturday mornings as they don't get much other business then. Iv'e never quite figured out why dyno runs cost so much money for what it is, unless it's because the machines cost a fortune.
(:-})
I think they only do the cheap runs on Saturday mornings as they don't get much other business then. Iv'e never quite figured out why dyno runs cost so much money for what it is, unless it's because the machines cost a fortune.
(:-})
New $25-28K or more for a Dynojet
04-19-2013 | 11:46 PM
#50
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Cost of running it is fairly low, but varies... All you have to do is make sure my mum isn't at home, since she get's grumpy from the noise... So, you might have to spring for a coffe and something at the local cafe, to get her to go shopping...
04-29-2013 | 11:54 AM
#51
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Ready For Dyno
175 f 178 r mains
48 pilot
DJ Needle
Indigo Exhaust Slip Ons
Setup:
1. Needle clip 3rd position from blunt end + 3 shims front + 4 shims back @.020."
2. Idle Mixture @ 2 1/4 front 2 1/2 back.
Ambient temp. ~ 75* F
Idle set ~ 1200rpm. Verified quick RPM drop after revving and rpm does not drop below 1200rpm.
Off line accelerating, slight bog from 1200rpm-~1900rpm. 2krpm + everything feels smooth.
Next step is to get a Dyno Printout. I lack the experience to fine tune by "feel" any further.
I'll try to get a printout within a month.
48 pilot
DJ Needle
Indigo Exhaust Slip Ons
Setup:
1. Needle clip 3rd position from blunt end + 3 shims front + 4 shims back @.020."
2. Idle Mixture @ 2 1/4 front 2 1/2 back.
Ambient temp. ~ 75* F
Idle set ~ 1200rpm. Verified quick RPM drop after revving and rpm does not drop below 1200rpm.
Off line accelerating, slight bog from 1200rpm-~1900rpm. 2krpm + everything feels smooth.
Next step is to get a Dyno Printout. I lack the experience to fine tune by "feel" any further.
I'll try to get a printout within a month.
04-29-2013 | 12:32 PM
#52
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I think you're a little rich on the bottom. Recommend going back to #45 pilots with no change in mixture screws, or leave the #48's and tweak in on the mixture screws a 1/4 to 1/2 turn to start.
04-29-2013 | 12:42 PM
#53
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From what I gather, you are implying the bog / lug from Idle to ~ 1900rpm is likely from being rich on the pilot screw. The bike should pull clean without any lug from Idle normally? I always figured the slight "lug" right off the get go was normal.
***I pulled over on a side street with the bike 100% warm and idling 78* F ambient temperature. I was surprised to find pulling the choke even a little caused the bike to instantly die. However, the choke works fine with cold starts. Could this support your claim that the bike is running rich on the Mixture Screw?
**
Thank you,
04-29-2013 | 12:48 PM
#54
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Well done...you must be a master at removing the carbs now and getting them springs back in.
The bogging down suggests a little rich but your so close now I can feel it from over the pond LOL IMHO I think it's a little rich on the needles still with all them shims. 2 shims is pretty much the equivalent of moving a clip position.
Now Dyno jet recommend the forth position from the blunt end as a starting point, so that's 2nd from the other end as you have 6 clip positions. So your slightly richer than 4th with the shims, 4.5 and 5 to be precise. But that's not to say it's not right for you except you still have a little bogging. You have to take into consideration your not using dyno jet mains as well. It could also be that you need to open the fuel screws another 1/8 to 1/4 turn but if you have no fluctuations with a blip test (quick flick in the throttle) then that sounds about right.
Personally I would remove 1 shim of each needle and see if the bogging disapears. But I guess your sick of removing the carbs now. The dyno result will soon tell you.
Well done for you persistence.
(:-})
The bogging down suggests a little rich but your so close now I can feel it from over the pond LOL IMHO I think it's a little rich on the needles still with all them shims. 2 shims is pretty much the equivalent of moving a clip position.
Now Dyno jet recommend the forth position from the blunt end as a starting point, so that's 2nd from the other end as you have 6 clip positions. So your slightly richer than 4th with the shims, 4.5 and 5 to be precise. But that's not to say it's not right for you except you still have a little bogging. You have to take into consideration your not using dyno jet mains as well. It could also be that you need to open the fuel screws another 1/8 to 1/4 turn but if you have no fluctuations with a blip test (quick flick in the throttle) then that sounds about right.
Personally I would remove 1 shim of each needle and see if the bogging disapears. But I guess your sick of removing the carbs now. The dyno result will soon tell you.
Well done for you persistence.
(:-})
04-29-2013 | 12:54 PM
#55
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Just seen the above post. Another 1/4 turn on the mixture is worth a try if the bogging is directly off idle. If you drop to 45 pilots then I have a feeling that may cause some carb farts and you will have to completely change where you mixture screws are set for them. Roughly about 1 complete turn more than where you are now.
(:-})
(:-})
04-29-2013 | 12:59 PM
#56
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Will the change on the Idle Mixture screws effect the work I've been doing with shimming the needles? I've been chasing a lean issue with the needles and hesitation in the 3-4200rpm area for awhile and finally got it right.
It shouldn't. After about 2500 rpm the mixture screws and idle jets play a very small part.
From what I gather, you are implying the bog / lug from Idle to ~ 1900rpm is likely from being rich on the pilot screw. The bike should pull clean without any lug from Idle normally? I always figured the slight "lug" right off the get go was normal.
Yes. Well, "clean" for a big twin is somewhat subjective. Big power pulses don't come so frequently at lower rpm so there are other issues such as chain ****** and cush rubber clearances that make running below 2k rpm not so much fun anyway. It's not like an I4 where you can lug it and it'll still be smooth. I usually ride over about 2500 rpm and most of my wheelies are done between 2500-3500 rpm. Seems to be a sweet spot for me.
***I pulled over on a side street with the bike 100% warm and idling 78* F ambient temperature. I was surprised to find pulling the choke even a little caused the bike to instantly die. However, the choke works fine with cold starts. Could this support your claim that the bike is running rich on the Mixture Screw?
Yes, this supports the rich theory.
**
Thank you,
You're welcome!
04-29-2013 | 01:09 PM
#57
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Well done...you must be a master at removing the carbs now and getting them springs back in.
The bogging down suggests a little rich but your so close now I can feel it from over the pond LOL IMHO I think it's a little rich on the needles still with all them shims. 2 shims is pretty much the equivalent of moving a clip position.
Now Dyno jet recommend the forth position from the blunt end as a starting point, so that's 2nd from the other end as you have 6 clip positions. So your slightly richer than 4th with the shims, 4.5 and 5 to be precise. But that's not to say it's not right for you except you still have a little bogging. You have to take into consideration your not using dyno jet mains as well. It could also be that you need to open the fuel screws another 1/8 to 1/4 turn but if you have no fluctuations with a blip test (quick flick in the throttle) then that sounds about right.
Personally I would remove 1 shim of each needle and see if the bogging disapears. But I guess your sick of removing the carbs now. The dyno result will soon tell you.
Well done for you persistence.
(:-})
The bogging down suggests a little rich but your so close now I can feel it from over the pond LOL IMHO I think it's a little rich on the needles still with all them shims. 2 shims is pretty much the equivalent of moving a clip position.
Now Dyno jet recommend the forth position from the blunt end as a starting point, so that's 2nd from the other end as you have 6 clip positions. So your slightly richer than 4th with the shims, 4.5 and 5 to be precise. But that's not to say it's not right for you except you still have a little bogging. You have to take into consideration your not using dyno jet mains as well. It could also be that you need to open the fuel screws another 1/8 to 1/4 turn but if you have no fluctuations with a blip test (quick flick in the throttle) then that sounds about right.
Personally I would remove 1 shim of each needle and see if the bogging disapears. But I guess your sick of removing the carbs now. The dyno result will soon tell you.
Well done for you persistence.
(:-})
Yes I can remove the carbs blindfolded now! <knocks over bike> opps!
Its a long read but. I've been running lean on the needles. Bike is surging at 1/8th throttle and popping on decel @ 35-45mph cruising behind cars on the busy roadway. This is where I spend most of my 15 minute commute.
I've been adding shims one at a time and it's been reducing the surging and popping at the RPM range stated above. Adding one more shim this weekend eliminated the surging and popping on decel. I was very excited.
It feels weird with all those shims, but then again these are DJ needles.
I'll see what change the leaning of the idle mixture screw produces in the Idle - 2krpm accelerating.
Thank you for the vote of confidence, this has been exciting so far.
04-29-2013 | 01:28 PM
#58
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I'll see what change the leaning of the idle mixture screw produces in the Idle - 2krpm accelerating.
Please call me anything but sir, we not used to that in the UK.
it's too formal LOL
It shouldn't. After about 2500 rpm the mixture screws and idle jets play a very small part.
(:-})
04-29-2013 | 01:52 PM
#59
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Talking about the fuel screw I said open the fuel screw above. I was wrong I should have said close. Sorry I'm tired from starring at the screen. You probably know this by know but opening (anticlockwise) richens the mixture and closing (clockwise) leans it off.
Please call me anything but sir, we not used to that in the UK. it's too formal LOL
I believe the pilot circuit works right the way through to the mains. Yes it's mainly for below idle and low RPM cruise but tapers off towards the mains. It plays a very small part with the mains but has more of a play on the needle circuit.
(:-})
Please call me anything but sir, we not used to that in the UK.
it's too formal LOLI believe the pilot circuit works right the way through to the mains. Yes it's mainly for below idle and low RPM cruise but tapers off towards the mains. It plays a very small part with the mains but has more of a play on the needle circuit.
(:-})
Ty again Mon Capitan,
06-12-2013 | 07:35 PM
#60
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 20
From: Denver, Co
First of all let me thank you guys for your knowledge. I have learned a lot on here. That's for sure!
I just did the carb set up 8541Hawk wrote up (although I had some issues because my diaphragms weren't sealed correctly...woops). The midrange power is now awesome. I am hoping that someone can chime in and help me get these suckers tuned a little better. First of all, my idle is pretty rough, and it even died on me a couple of times at stoplights. It's not a steady idle either. Second, I seem to stumble around 6k while under full throttle. Is it possible that I need bigger mains? Or would more shims help?
I know that it's now a process of trying one thing and seeing how it work, but where do you guys think that I should start at?
I just did the carb set up 8541Hawk wrote up (although I had some issues because my diaphragms weren't sealed correctly...woops). The midrange power is now awesome. I am hoping that someone can chime in and help me get these suckers tuned a little better. First of all, my idle is pretty rough, and it even died on me a couple of times at stoplights. It's not a steady idle either. Second, I seem to stumble around 6k while under full throttle. Is it possible that I need bigger mains? Or would more shims help?
I know that it's now a process of trying one thing and seeing how it work, but where do you guys think that I should start at?
