ok after working on my bike for awhile i have it running on erion exhaust and a dynojet kit. I got tired screwing with the k&N for right now and just want to ride right now... Anyways I'm at 180f/185r with the needles on the 2nd front he top notch. I synched it using my mity vac and well things run well but there is a slight bit of coughing and I've had it blow the plugs out before... should I bump the needles up to the top or could it be that my synch is just a lil off still?? OR do I need to drop the needle down to the dynojet recommended setting for a good flowing exhaust... they say 4th from the bottom... I'd like to avoid having to do this several times cause I get quite frustrated....

 

You'll need to be much more specific about the driveability issues you are having. Just stating that it's 'coughing' doesn't help much. At what rpm? What throttle opening? Load? Engine temp?

One thing that I will tell you is that the Dynojunk kit will be your worst enemy from here on out. The Factory Pro kits dial right in, I've never gotten a Dynojunk one to work well. It's no wonder they have gotten out of the carb kit business.

Put the K&N filter back in too. It won't hurt anything plus you'll want to run it eventually. You might as well dial in the jetting (the best you can) once.

 

hmmmmm.....my "Dynojunk" kit works just fine, thank you. As for the K&N, do a search, you will see that its use is NOT unanimous (many experienced and knowledgeable tuners, in fact, recommend AGAINST it in the VTR)

 

I also used the Factory kit and followed their suggestions for clip position and main jet based on my cans and filter; was on the money first try (after I realized I was having issues because I had the vac line hooked up incorrectly).

 

As far as K&N there seem to be as many detractors as supporters. I've only run with a K&N in so I have no basis for comparison.

 

it'll cough at low rpms.. i.e. below 4k. also at any temperature. I was told by erion racing NOT to use the k&N. This was after spending a long time trying to get things to run right. I put things back to normal so I could ride while it's nice out and can mess with that later when it's crap weather and I won't mind having it in pieces. also don't give me the crap about k&N complainers and users or even the dynojet crap. It came with the dynojet installed and I know that things aren't universal. However it is universal where if you're having certain symptoms that raising or lowering the needle will help. When the carbs are not synched right either the carbs will respond the same. My tune is close to being on but something is just slightly off right now...

 

4000 rpm is a little too low to be your needle, but it's possible. I'd look at both the sync and the idle mixture first.

 

what way should I turn the mixture screw? it's at ~2.5 turns. btw it doesn't happen at 4k. it'll really just happen at around idle 1.5-3k or so. partial throttle. if I go WOT it's fine.

 

Yup, sounds like mixture screws. Pull the carbs. Check and clean the idle jets/emulsion tubes. Make sure you have #45 idle jet in there. If so, turn screws out to 2.25 turns, front and back. This should work. I have Hindle slip-ons, K&N, #45, and perfect sync on my carbs with mixture screws at 2.25 turns at sea level and the bike is perfect. At 500' elevation here in NY it's a little richer but still carburetes well. No coughing at all. Of course I have the Factory 1.1 Ti kit too. You have the D-shaped tool for the screws?

 

yeah i have that tool. came with the dynojet kit. though I've found the front carb mixture screw is difficult to turn... i'll turn it and as I get close to the 2nd turn it'll feel like it slips... :-\ I'll try that though and see how things are. I'm gonna try and adjust the synch just a tad. I'm really close to being on. but using a regular vac gauge makes it tough... Maybe when I go ride with denmah we can quickly use his mercury gauges to fine tune mine