I agree that it's probably intentional. I just went out and started my '05 with stock cans, and there's an equal amount of pressure coming out of both cans from idle on up. And like stated above, it would be much more of a pain in the *** to reweld those pieces back in there.

I learned about exhaust backpressure back in the mid '60s when I had an exhaust cutout welded on the header pipe in front of the muffler on my '59 Chevy 283 with single exhaust. When I uncorked it completely it lost what felt like 50% of low end power, but it sure was loud. Of course I'm not intending to say that there is any shortage of backpressure in a stock SuperHawk exhaust.

As for sudden acceleration, I've experienced it many times on our 3 Toyota 4x4's. It happens every time I floor it. Well, maybe not so much on my wife's old '86 Extra Cab with the 22RE 4 banger.

 

[quote=VTRsurfer;256592] It happens every time I floor it. quote]

Yeah, mine does the same thing. It's like the floor has a magnet installed in it. I'll have to take it in one of these days. It's especially embarrassing when the light turns green and the idiot in front of me has the reverse problem.

 

I just did the intersection mod to my pipes this evening - great tip on the hole-saw method - worked perfectly!

Another place to look for improvement is the opening that attaches to the exhaust manifold. There is excess weld bead that can be ground down, it should allow for better exhaust flow.

Before:



After Grind:

 

Has anyone else modified these welds? I currently have my exhaust system disassembled and I did notice these restrictions. I have previously done the grinding at the intersection but now I am tempted to something here as well. Is there a consensus on whether or not there is any benefit?

 

I first learned of this mod from my Honda XR series dirt dikes. Those pipes were half the diameter of the SH pipes. Grinding the bead down on them made a very noticable difference and made them sound nicer, not louder, nicer.

I think that every little bit helps, and this one is free. I used a carbide bit, and then a grind wheel, and then a small wire wheel, on an air die-grinder. I takes a good 30-mins to remove the bead. Still need to do the rear header.

Mobe794 - what did you use to paint your headers and what color did you choose? I was considering doing this myself - any chance of a photo? Engine Ice - I see you are a fellow dirt-biker.

 

The paint I've been using is called VHT ceramic header paint. Flat black. It, and other colors, can be found at most auto parts stores. It won't last forever. About two seasons is max for me, but I do a lot of spirited riding. Sun up till sun down on most Saturdays in the summer. Road debris will slowly sand blast away a few areas. I have found it to be a cheap alternative to Jet-hot.

I used to have it wrapped then painted over (guess I should change my signature). I liked the look of that a lot and it held up surprisingly well. The paint soaked into it and gave it a hard shell. I quit with the wrap after dragging the header a few times at the track. I think I got the dragging situation taken care of now but I just haven't felt like messing with the wrap again.

Sorry, it's a no-go on the pics. My computer took a **** a few months ago. I'm using an old relic I found at my parents house. It's abilities a very limited.

 

I ground mine out when I switched to slipons, so its not a clear cut case, but the slip ons were better and the left sure as heck has alot more gas out of it than the right now...

 

Yeah, but rev it up a little and you'll see that the flow evens out quite a bit. I have to believe that under load/rpm/throttle that the flow is pretty close to the same with the stock header. Honda knows what they are doing and this is not coincidence, the design is meant to be that way.