Electrical problem - died during commute
09-23-2009 | 05:03 AM
#1
Thread Starter
hardened stihl
Back Marker
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 166
From: VT
Electrical problem - died during commute
Hi,
I've been taking advantage of the heat wave and am on the bike 3-4 days per week for my 1.25hr commute. This a.m. I stopped for gas. When I flicked the key back on the gauges did there normal thing, but when I hit the starter switch, it died. Looked just like a fuse - all lights and gauges turned off. But the fuses were fine. I fiddled with wires under the seat for a while, but all connections appeared tight. I kept flicking the key to 'on' and then back to off but no change- bike still dead.
Then after about 5 minutes, I flicked the key to "on" and bing, gauges lit up like nothing was ever wrong (clock and trip had reset). So I started it, and with it running I shook the battery, but the connections were tight. Then all of a sudden the gauges flickered and started acting wierd (bike was running and idling fine), and the rear signals and rear light were flickering and sputtering too (front signals do not have running lights so dont know if they did or not-did not think to watch headlight).
So I call into work to let them know I'll be late, shut the bike down so I can hear myself think, and when I go to start it up again so I can ride home and swap it for my truck, its dead again. After a while turning the key from off to on repetedly works, but this time when I go to fire it dies. This cycle happens 5+ times. Finally get ignition, power dies when switch is touched. Finally get it running, this time the gauges are NOT flickering and it seams totally normal. I ride home and log onto shforum.com to ask you guys what the heck is up with my bike.
Any ideas?
I've been taking advantage of the heat wave and am on the bike 3-4 days per week for my 1.25hr commute. This a.m. I stopped for gas. When I flicked the key back on the gauges did there normal thing, but when I hit the starter switch, it died. Looked just like a fuse - all lights and gauges turned off. But the fuses were fine. I fiddled with wires under the seat for a while, but all connections appeared tight. I kept flicking the key to 'on' and then back to off but no change- bike still dead.
Then after about 5 minutes, I flicked the key to "on" and bing, gauges lit up like nothing was ever wrong (clock and trip had reset). So I started it, and with it running I shook the battery, but the connections were tight. Then all of a sudden the gauges flickered and started acting wierd (bike was running and idling fine), and the rear signals and rear light were flickering and sputtering too (front signals do not have running lights so dont know if they did or not-did not think to watch headlight).
So I call into work to let them know I'll be late, shut the bike down so I can hear myself think, and when I go to start it up again so I can ride home and swap it for my truck, its dead again. After a while turning the key from off to on repetedly works, but this time when I go to fire it dies. This cycle happens 5+ times. Finally get ignition, power dies when switch is touched. Finally get it running, this time the gauges are NOT flickering and it seams totally normal. I ride home and log onto shforum.com to ask you guys what the heck is up with my bike.
Any ideas?
09-23-2009 | 08:11 AM
#4
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 818
From: Thornwood, NY
Just go ahead and start looking to buy a R/R.... one of the most common faulty parts on the Hawk....
If you do some searching (Try the Electrix Site), you should be able to find a testing procedure/diagram for a R/R using a voltmeter if you wanna check before spending the cash... it's easy to check... but I'd bet money that's your problem.
J.
If you do some searching (Try the Electrix Site), you should be able to find a testing procedure/diagram for a R/R using a voltmeter if you wanna check before spending the cash... it's easy to check... but I'd bet money that's your problem.
J.
09-23-2009 | 08:38 AM
#7
AZ RIDER
Superstock
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 294
From: Arizona
R/R for sure, Charge the battery dont buy a new one like i did and buy a finned R/R for a 1999 to 2006 Yamaha R6 Finned 5 Pin.. Wiring Shematics are here http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/
I just did this last weekend after haveing the same problem. getting stranded at a gas station
I just did this last weekend after haveing the same problem. getting stranded at a gas station
09-23-2009 | 09:28 AM
#8
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,216
From: Westerly, RI
Just go ahead and start looking to buy a R/R.... one of the most common faulty parts on the Hawk....
If you do some searching (Try the Electrix Site), you should be able to find a testing procedure/diagram for a R/R using a voltmeter if you wanna check before spending the cash... it's easy to check... but I'd bet money that's your problem.
J.
If you do some searching (Try the Electrix Site), you should be able to find a testing procedure/diagram for a R/R using a voltmeter if you wanna check before spending the cash... it's easy to check... but I'd bet money that's your problem.
J.
Go to CircuitBurners site, www.bluetungsten.com , and the procedure is there: http://www.tiny-media.org/motovoltage/tech.htm
If you want to ensure that the R/R doesn't fail again soon, buy one of his R/Rs. Does it cost more, yes, but worth it. Lifetime warrantied too.
I went with the used R6 R/R like many suggested, and it was considerably cheaper, but it burned out after a short time.
Buy new, or buy CircuitBurners.
I like CircuitBurners product, I own one, and I will recommend it to others. It is universal, so that in the event that I am out of my mind and sell the SH, I will put a R/R in it, and take my CircuitBurner R/R with me. It is plugged into the Stator connector right behind the tank and connects to the battery. Eliminated part of the too small gauge stock wiring.
09-23-2009 | 09:37 AM
#9
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,572
From: Buffalo, NY
Sounds more like a bad connection somewhere more than a r/r failure with the instant loss of all power imho... Since you mention the ign switch seemingly affects it I would start there. The bike should have the updated finned r/r already being an '02.
09-23-2009 | 10:00 AM
#11
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,451
From: San Clemente, CA
If it dies when you touch the ignition switch (key), that sounds like worn contacts in the switch.
When it won't start, try jiggling the key while holding the start button and see if it cranks then. If it does, replace the switch.
When it won't start, try jiggling the key while holding the start button and see if it cranks then. If it does, replace the switch.
Last edited by VTRsurfer; 09-23-2009 at 10:03 AM.
09-23-2009 | 10:22 AM
#12
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 818
From: Thornwood, NY
To the best of my knowledge, you can't check the R/R, but you can check the stator to ensure it is not grounded.
Go to CircuitBurners site, www.bluetungsten.com , and the procedure is there: http://www.tiny-media.org/motovoltage/tech.htm
If you want to ensure that the R/R doesn't fail again soon, buy one of his R/Rs. Does it cost more, yes, but worth it. Lifetime warrantied too.
I went with the used R6 R/R like many suggested, and it was considerably cheaper, but it burned out after a short time.
Buy new, or buy CircuitBurners.
I like CircuitBurners product, I own one, and I will recommend it to others. It is universal, so that in the event that I am out of my mind and sell the SH, I will put a R/R in it, and take my CircuitBurner R/R with me. It is plugged into the Stator connector right behind the tank and connects to the battery. Eliminated part of the too small gauge stock wiring.
Go to CircuitBurners site, www.bluetungsten.com , and the procedure is there: http://www.tiny-media.org/motovoltage/tech.htm
If you want to ensure that the R/R doesn't fail again soon, buy one of his R/Rs. Does it cost more, yes, but worth it. Lifetime warrantied too.
I went with the used R6 R/R like many suggested, and it was considerably cheaper, but it burned out after a short time.
Buy new, or buy CircuitBurners.
I like CircuitBurners product, I own one, and I will recommend it to others. It is universal, so that in the event that I am out of my mind and sell the SH, I will put a R/R in it, and take my CircuitBurner R/R with me. It is plugged into the Stator connector right behind the tank and connects to the battery. Eliminated part of the too small gauge stock wiring.
http://www.electrosport.com/technica...ting-guide.pdf
J.
09-23-2009 | 10:34 AM
#13
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,216
From: Westerly, RI
You can test the R/R diodes to see if one or more is toast....
http://www.electrosport.com/technica...ting-guide.pdf
J.
http://www.electrosport.com/technica...ting-guide.pdf
J.
If his R/R was bad, mine melted the wiring harness at the plug/connectors.
It does sound like a bad connection somewhere.
09-23-2009 | 11:07 AM
#14
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 714
From: Fredericksburg, VA
IIRC I had the exact same symptoms with a dead battery. My R/R was already upgraded at the time so I got a new battery and everything was fine. Perhaps a dead cell causes them to act sporadically? Either way, I remember my gauges going awry and the lights flickering when I was almost home. Fresh battery cured it.
How old is your battery?
Had you been actually driving down the road and blown a headlight or the bike shutdown completely I would say that is more like a R/R failure.
Then again I could be completely wrong cause it was a couple years ago, but the only thing I ever replaced on that bike electrically was the battery and maybe a fuse or two.
Good luck!
How old is your battery?
Had you been actually driving down the road and blown a headlight or the bike shutdown completely I would say that is more like a R/R failure.
Then again I could be completely wrong cause it was a couple years ago, but the only thing I ever replaced on that bike electrically was the battery and maybe a fuse or two.
Good luck!
09-23-2009 | 12:15 PM
#15
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 818
From: Thornwood, NY
IIRC I had the exact same symptoms with a dead battery. My R/R was already upgraded at the time so I got a new battery and everything was fine. Perhaps a dead cell causes them to act sporadically? Either way, I remember my gauges going awry and the lights flickering when I was almost home. Fresh battery cured it.
How old is your battery?
Had you been actually driving down the road and blown a headlight or the bike shutdown completely I would say that is more like a R/R failure.
Then again I could be completely wrong cause it was a couple years ago, but the only thing I ever replaced on that bike electrically was the battery and maybe a fuse or two.
Good luck!
How old is your battery?
Had you been actually driving down the road and blown a headlight or the bike shutdown completely I would say that is more like a R/R failure.
Then again I could be completely wrong cause it was a couple years ago, but the only thing I ever replaced on that bike electrically was the battery and maybe a fuse or two.
Good luck!
I'll agree he's probably got a battery issue now as well as the R/R problem... in most of the cases involving the R/R, it (the R/R) fries (you don't know it's happened) and you continue riding the bike with no noticable effects for awhile as the bike is running off just the battery.... slowly, or not so slowly, lights/guages/etc start flickering or going out... as the battery starts to die. Eventually the bike just dies or won't start if you stopped before it dies. Your battery is dead now due to the R/R going out earlier. Replace the R/R and see if you can just recharge the battery.
When mine went, I was on a 100 mile ride home from a weekend vacation.... 50 miles in, my speedo/tach went out... 20 miles later the lights went out... at this point I knew I was screwed and tried my best to get home ASAP... of course 10 miles from home doing 80 in the left lane on a crowded parkway at noon on a Sunday the bike just shut off... after pushing that beast uphill 2 miles to the nearest exit I was ready to kill. I got a ride home, swapped out the battery for another I had in the garage and drove home on battery power. Swapped out the R/R for a finned one from Ricks motorsports and never had another electrical problem again.
J.
09-23-2009 | 05:43 PM
#16
Thread Starter
hardened stihl
Back Marker
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 166
From: VT
Wow- lots of replies, thanks for the suggestions.
When it would get any power at all the bike would fire instantly. If it is the battery its unlike any dying battery I've ever seen.
Loose connections were a thought I had too. When the bike was running after an initial attempt, the lights were flickering and acting weird like I said, and I heard some funny noises coming from near where the subframe meets the frame on the right side. Is this where the R/R lives?
I will check everything out tomorrow, it is dark here now and has rained hard all day.
Thanks again for the help
ps battery is at least 1 year old (I bought the bike last september) but may be much older.
I've had bad batteries before and usually the bike gets power but wont fire and then a pop start will work. This was night and day between power on power off. And when it was on the lights were bright but would sketch out intermitantly. Definitely thinking loose connection or RR
When it would get any power at all the bike would fire instantly. If it is the battery its unlike any dying battery I've ever seen.
Loose connections were a thought I had too. When the bike was running after an initial attempt, the lights were flickering and acting weird like I said, and I heard some funny noises coming from near where the subframe meets the frame on the right side. Is this where the R/R lives?
I will check everything out tomorrow, it is dark here now and has rained hard all day.
Thanks again for the help
ps battery is at least 1 year old (I bought the bike last september) but may be much older.
I've had bad batteries before and usually the bike gets power but wont fire and then a pop start will work. This was night and day between power on power off. And when it was on the lights were bright but would sketch out intermitantly. Definitely thinking loose connection or RR
Last edited by vermontzx6r; 09-23-2009 at 05:47 PM.
09-23-2009 | 05:52 PM
#17
New Hawk Rider
Superstock
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 258
From: Ventura Co. SoCAL
Similar to what was happening with mine. Died once while out riding after several times of my speedo dropping to 0 when I was riding. I had to jump it. I was able to re-start a few times also off and on and finally got it home. Sometimes it would work, sometimes it wouldn't. I changed out my R/R with an R6 unit and have had no problems since. 1 hour worth of work and a $40 used part from Craigslist.
09-23-2009 | 06:03 PM
#18
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,451
From: San Clemente, CA
09-24-2009 | 02:06 AM
#21
Member
Squid
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 38
OH YEAH IT HAPPENED TO ME YESTERDAY! There were some signs of battery going bad sometimes it went flat overnight sometimes I couldn´t restart the bike after a wild run. I believe it is the R/R which is faulty when hot. I´m definitely going with Yamaha rectifier, it left me stranded in traffic yesterfy on the autobahn, but I got a nice suntan from two hours of waiting for my girlfriend with a trailer :-D
09-25-2009 | 05:51 PM
#23
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,572
From: Buffalo, NY
09-25-2009 | 07:34 PM
#24
Squided
Back Marker
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 194
01-06-2010 | 05:36 PM
#25
Member
Squid
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 55
Weirdly, my bike has done this a couple of times, the first time was over a year ago. I'm just now starting to have genuine battery troubles. The cold isn't helping and the battery came with my (very) used bike. I took the caps off and filled with water and charged it... exactly the things it said on the top not to do since it's sealed, but so far it seems fine.
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