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Electrical Issue....NO POWER anywhere

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Old 03-05-2009 | 03:52 PM
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Electrical Issue....NO POWER anywhere

I have a 1998 superhawk with 14k on it, Only time its been wet is when I wash it. I took it out for the first time in a few months.... It was running fine, I was going about 50 mph then it was like someone just turn the key off. The guages/ lights/ headlight/ brakelight nothing works. I checked all the fuses in the small fuse box... not of them have power on them and all of them visually seem ok. I can cross the seloniod over and the bike will crank. The bike didnt miss or anything, it was like I turn the key off.

Where should I start? Checking the ing switch? Is there a Main fuse?
Old 03-05-2009 | 04:00 PM
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There is a 30A fuse that is the main one. I think it is in with the rest of them but am not sure.

My guess is that the R/R failed and blew the 30A fuse.. So you need to replace both.

Be sure to replace it with a finned one. (either newer honda type or one from a R1/R6)

This is an aftermarket finned honda one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-H...Q5fAccessories
Old 03-05-2009 | 04:39 PM
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r/r is the voltage regulator? where is that located? Is the yamaha a dirrect plug in/ mount? Is the 30A fuse the black 3 prong thing in the fuse block?
Old 03-05-2009 | 05:17 PM
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r/r is under the rear plastic. mine did the same thing yesterday....SUCKS about $ 100 new
Old 03-05-2009 | 05:39 PM
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will one be a dirrect fit from a cbr1000rr (04). Mine doesnt have any pigtails, by the newer CBR does

Which one of these should I get?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Moto...1%7C240%3A1318

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CBR-1...1%7C240%3A1318
Old 03-05-2009 | 05:45 PM
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I don't know, that almost sounds like something with the ignition switch to me. I also suggest checking the main fuse first. It's a strip of metal held down buy two screws in the assembly that houses the starter relay. There is usually a spare in there too. Don't go jumping to the conclusion that it's the R/R until you check that out.

Let us know what you find.
Old 03-05-2009 | 05:56 PM
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Have a search for the downloadabable Honda PDF VTR workshop manual plus links to the ronayers.com online parts microfiche for the VTR. All very good references for mapping all the firestorm's innards.



Anyhow

Take off rear bodywork and tucked away on the subframe is the main fuse no. 11 (also check for corrosion in the starter switch assy (no.8) where the fuse plugs into as that can cause inexplicable leccy shutdowns.

Good suggestion to definitely replace the 'old' self and battery destructing R/R, even if it's not the current cause of your woes ('scuse pun) - Order a later model VTR one if you don't fancy the fiddling that fitting a Yam one entails.

Last edited by Wicky; 03-05-2009 at 06:03 PM.
Old 03-05-2009 | 06:51 PM
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Here is how to swap to the Yamaha unit: http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/

You don't want the pigtailed CBR unit..

FYI one from a CBR600 F2 F3 F4 VFR750F etc will work but a F4i or newer will not.

Last edited by lazn; 03-05-2009 at 07:03 PM.
Old 03-05-2009 | 07:47 PM
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you can test r/r with a multi meter
Old 03-05-2009 | 09:48 PM
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How do I test the r/r with a multi-meter?
Old 03-05-2009 | 09:51 PM
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Check the manual.
certain pins on the RR will be a certain ohm reading.
Old 03-06-2009 | 10:57 AM
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If you have the old non finned version of R/R it would be in your best interest to swap it with either the 2001 and up "finned" version (has cooling fins to dissipate heat and a direct plug in replacement) or go with the R1 unit which is much beefier.
Old 03-06-2009 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by RickB
If you have the old non finned version of R/R it would be in your best interest to swap it with either the 2001 and up "finned" version (has cooling fins to dissipate heat and a direct plug in replacement) or go with the R1 unit which is much beefier.


If I go with the R1 r/r would I need to get a plung end?
Old 03-06-2009 | 11:48 AM
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Here is a direct replacement for $95. I've had one for a couple of years with no problem. Comes with a 1 year warranty too.
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics....BIb25WVFIxMDAw
Old 03-06-2009 | 12:02 PM
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I know some of you guys have used aftermarket rr's with some success, but I blew through two (electrosport R/R's) real quick so (like in 3 months)... the first one was under warranty and after the second blew I just bought a new honda replacement for about $110 at the dealer, it came with the fins so it was the upgrade unit and now no problems for a while.
Old 03-06-2009 | 12:29 PM
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new honda replacement ones have fins on them? what??
Old 03-06-2009 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by nothing
new honda replacement ones have fins on them? what??
mine did when it was replaced a couple of years ago...
Old 03-07-2009 | 01:36 PM
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You would have to modify your existing connections with the R1 unit.
Originally Posted by superman_006
If I go with the R1 r/r would I need to get a plung end?
Old 03-07-2009 | 01:40 PM
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From what I have determined 2001 and later had the better design with fins on the case to aid in cooling the unit which prolongs its life.


Originally Posted by nothing
new honda replacement ones have fins on them? what??
Old 03-11-2009 | 01:38 PM
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Well the plug that covers the main fuse was pretty stubborn but I quess its been plugged in for 11 years. My r/r had some sort of ooze coming out of it, so I unpluged it and put a new fuse in. AND WAHLA it runs again!!! Now Im just waiting for the one I bought to get here

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Old 03-11-2009 | 01:51 PM
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congratulations!
Old 03-11-2009 | 07:03 PM
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nice car btw...ahhh someday...
Old 03-11-2009 | 07:44 PM
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thats my porsche 996 in the background
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Old 03-12-2009 | 06:44 PM
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I know this thing mounts to aluminum...but should I put de-electrical grease on the back?
Old 03-01-2010 | 01:33 AM
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im having the same type of issue. My starter relay fuse keeps blowing every time i plug in the 4 pin connector. what could that be? is the starter relay bad? i went through the steps of testing it like the book says but keep blosing fuses on my volt tester
Old 03-01-2010 | 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by superman_006
I know this thing mounts to aluminum...but should I put de-electrical grease on the back?
No you shouldn't. If anything put some heat sink compound on there but with a finned unit you don't really need it.
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