Dino vs Synth - Oil and additive comparo
03-12-2006 | 05:11 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 402
From: Florida
Dino vs Synth - Oil and additive comparo
I saw this interesting piece on oils and Lucas additive.
Whether car or bike related seeing is believing.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm
Have any of you ever used "Slick 50"?
I did and never will again.
After putting it in my 79 KZ1000 the bike started consuming oil at a very noticeable rate. It took 5 oil changes with dino oil to stop the heavy oil consumption. I also used the slick stuff in a '91 Toyota Tercel (same time frame). The result was my oil light coming on after 2 weeks of normal use. When I checked the oil level and THERE WAS NO OIL. The Slick 50 in both cases was allowing the oil to slip past the piston rings into the combustion process. There was no trail of blue smoke with either vehicle to indicate a problem.
You need to be very careful when selecting products to be used in or on you machine. I fell victim to the HYPE and it could have cost me dearly in needless repairs.
Whether car or bike related seeing is believing.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm
Have any of you ever used "Slick 50"?
I did and never will again.
After putting it in my 79 KZ1000 the bike started consuming oil at a very noticeable rate. It took 5 oil changes with dino oil to stop the heavy oil consumption. I also used the slick stuff in a '91 Toyota Tercel (same time frame). The result was my oil light coming on after 2 weeks of normal use. When I checked the oil level and THERE WAS NO OIL. The Slick 50 in both cases was allowing the oil to slip past the piston rings into the combustion process. There was no trail of blue smoke with either vehicle to indicate a problem.
You need to be very careful when selecting products to be used in or on you machine. I fell victim to the HYPE and it could have cost me dearly in needless repairs.
03-14-2006 | 11:16 AM
#3
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 402
From: Florida
Re: Dino vs Synth - Oil and additive comparo
Can you guess what I've been doing while I wait (3+ weeks now) for the flash flood warnings to go away.
At least it isn't snowing or freezing and I know I'll see the sun again soon.
Anyway I'll keep passing along anything interesting I find that might be useful to some one. I was surprised by the airfilter test. Now I really regret getting a K&N.
At least it isn't snowing or freezing and I know I'll see the sun again soon.
Anyway I'll keep passing along anything interesting I find that might be useful to some one. I was surprised by the airfilter test. Now I really regret getting a K&N.
03-14-2006 | 01:20 PM
#4
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,844
From: Gainesville FLA.
Re: Dino vs Synth - Oil and additive comparo
So what did you Hawaiian's do to **** off the gods like that anyway? I saw some footage on the news the other day, the first thing I thought was , "Well I guess Bird isn't doing any riding yet !"
I think you need a jet ski instead. :wink:
03-14-2006 | 03:51 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 402
From: Florida
Re: Dino vs Synth - Oil and additive comparo
I think the rise in theft is the root cause of the god's displeasure.
This state should invest in a few truck loads of concrete and be done with those thieving creeps.
"Have an nice swim fellas! Enjoy the new shoes!"
In the mean time, do you know anyone selling a good used submersible?
This state should invest in a few truck loads of concrete and be done with those thieving creeps.
"Have an nice swim fellas! Enjoy the new shoes!"
In the mean time, do you know anyone selling a good used submersible?
03-14-2006 | 08:34 PM
#6
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 152
From: Phoenix
ProLong has saved two of my motors now and an air compressor. We have oil cooled air compressors at work and one of the lines ruptured and all the oil leaked out. We guessed that the compressor was on for two days without any oil in it. IMPRESSIVE. As for slick 50 I have never tried the stuff.
03-14-2006 | 11:35 PM
#7
Moderate-whore
MotoGP
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 9,049
From: Leander TX!!
Re: Dino vs Synth - Oil and additive comparo
so do you think it is bad to use a full syn oil?? I use Mobil 1 now, and I usually take it easy on start up and take off.....I also add a little seafoam to the gas, and plan on adding some to the oil as well....think that will cause any problems????
03-15-2006 | 09:20 AM
#8
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 547
Honda recommends NOT using a full synthetic. Not because of the engine, but to enable your clutch, which uses the same oil, to grab more effectively. I usually run a Semi-synthetic, and I'm about to do a change to 5w50 here for the summer riding.
03-15-2006 | 12:50 PM
#9
Member
Squid
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 93
From: Tucson
Re: Dino vs Synth - Oil and additive comparo
Loco, do you have anything to back up your claim? If I remember correctly my owner's manual specifies a certain grade and viscosity of oil of which the oil that I currently use (Mobil 1 syn. motorcycle oil) meets or exceeds. I do agree that the synthetic oil will cause the clutch to slip more than a non-synthetic but it is not noticeable unless one is trying to clutch up the front wheel and I don't do that. I will trade the ease of clutching up the front wheel for what I believe will be extended engine life.
I do agree that older machines, 80's and before should not run syn. only because my experience has been that the clutch slipped noticeably when I tried to run a syn. oil in both of my vintage hondas.
I do agree that older machines, 80's and before should not run syn. only because my experience has been that the clutch slipped noticeably when I tried to run a syn. oil in both of my vintage hondas.
03-15-2006 | 04:53 PM
#11
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 6
Re: Dino vs Synth - Oil and additive comparo
Hey guys, new to posting, been reading a lot though to prep myself for buying my newly acquired SH. Picked up a 98 with 6k last sunday. Well, my question that I think is significant to this thread is that both PO's of my bike did NOT use synthetic. The water temp. stays pretty cool and the bike rides fine. But all of my vehicles run full syn. and I have had nothing but good experiences with mobil 1. So, is it OK to switch the bike to full syn now? Or you think the seals have already become accustomed to regular oil? With the mileage I would say yes, but with the age I would say no so this is what has me on the fence about changing. Any thoughts?
03-15-2006 | 05:02 PM
#12
Moderate-whore
MotoGP
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 9,049
From: Leander TX!!
Re: Dino vs Synth - Oil and additive comparo
NY----I got mine last Nov from a friend that used Honda regular oil every 6 months...only had 5k miles 1999 model....I switched to Mob 1 about a month or so ago, and have not had any problems.....I think you would be ok....but this is better answered by one of the grease monkey's on this forum.....
03-15-2006 | 05:26 PM
#13
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 281
From: Denver, CO
Re: Dino vs Synth - Oil and additive comparo
A full synthetic is fine, but it musn't contain Moly. Honda Pro makes a nice fully synthetic at the dealership that works great and has no Moly. Mobile-1 makes MX4T, a synthetic made for motorcycles as well as a V-Twin synth 20W-50. The owner's manual says 20W-50 is okay if you're not riding under 50 degrees F.
When I had my Ninja 250R, I was using Mobil-1 for cars. You get way more performance using it, but the clutch slips and feels like a turbo-charger under high-load. I'd recommend a thin an oil as possible because I tried 20W-50 and my Ninja 250R's top-end was 95mph on the speedo. A few minutes later I dumped it out and put in 5W-30 and my top-end registered 112mph on the same road going the same direction with the same outside temp, no wind, etc. in North Dakota.
I had used car Mobil-1 (with Moly) for 6000 miles on the Ninja 250R with no problems, but rumor has it your clutch will die due to the slippage. I suspect it'd be the same if you rode your clutch in a car after every gearshift all the time, you're clutch would probably only last to 60k miles instead of 150k miles.
Still ignorant at the time, I was using automotive Mobil-1 for another 5000 miles when I bought my Ninja 500R. I still had the turbo-clutch-slip but still no real problems.
I have been using Mobil-1 MX4T in my SHawk ever since my second oil change. Urban legend suggests not to use a synthetic during break-in (interestingly, Pontiac using a synthetic Mobil-1 in TransAms, Firehawks, Z28s, and SS Camaros as part of a full-synth package off the lot.) Mobil-1 claims this is no longer true, that their synth formula now is safe for break-in since 1998.
When I had my Ninja 250R, I was using Mobil-1 for cars. You get way more performance using it, but the clutch slips and feels like a turbo-charger under high-load. I'd recommend a thin an oil as possible because I tried 20W-50 and my Ninja 250R's top-end was 95mph on the speedo. A few minutes later I dumped it out and put in 5W-30 and my top-end registered 112mph on the same road going the same direction with the same outside temp, no wind, etc. in North Dakota.
I had used car Mobil-1 (with Moly) for 6000 miles on the Ninja 250R with no problems, but rumor has it your clutch will die due to the slippage. I suspect it'd be the same if you rode your clutch in a car after every gearshift all the time, you're clutch would probably only last to 60k miles instead of 150k miles.
Still ignorant at the time, I was using automotive Mobil-1 for another 5000 miles when I bought my Ninja 500R. I still had the turbo-clutch-slip but still no real problems.
I have been using Mobil-1 MX4T in my SHawk ever since my second oil change. Urban legend suggests not to use a synthetic during break-in (interestingly, Pontiac using a synthetic Mobil-1 in TransAms, Firehawks, Z28s, and SS Camaros as part of a full-synth package off the lot.) Mobil-1 claims this is no longer true, that their synth formula now is safe for break-in since 1998.
03-15-2006 | 05:47 PM
#14
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 402
From: Florida
Re: Dino vs Synth - Oil and additive comparo
Good feedback.
I never tried Prolong just the Slick 50 (not impressed). It is nice to see a product working as advertised (Prolong). I heard there was another product called ProLong but it was a male additive not an oil additive. I guess it keeps more than the revs up.
I've never used Synthetics since I change the oil at 3000 whether it needs it or not. The 4x price increase for synth when I don't take advantage of longer change intervals seems to be a waste of money for me. I do look for one of the better made (filtering) filters to catch as much junk as possible. Mobile1, K&N, and Purolator are supposedly some of the best and WIX is not too bad either from what I've read I'm using a K&N filter in my autos and am looking for a match for the SuperHawk.
I guess since the filter lets in more dirt they had to make an oil filter to get most of it out.
Are most of you using the Honda filters or somethng else?
Those of you using a synth or synth blend do you notice any real world benefits that out weigh regular oils changes at 3000 miles?
In the link the "Oil Guy" is showing a lot of air mixing with the synth and and inability for the synth to climb the gears. Does anyone know if this occurs in actual use or do you suspect he rigged the display?
I never tried Prolong just the Slick 50 (not impressed). It is nice to see a product working as advertised (Prolong). I heard there was another product called ProLong but it was a male additive not an oil additive. I guess it keeps more than the revs up.
I've never used Synthetics since I change the oil at 3000 whether it needs it or not. The 4x price increase for synth when I don't take advantage of longer change intervals seems to be a waste of money for me. I do look for one of the better made (filtering) filters to catch as much junk as possible. Mobile1, K&N, and Purolator are supposedly some of the best and WIX is not too bad either from what I've read I'm using a K&N filter in my autos and am looking for a match for the SuperHawk.
I guess since the filter lets in more dirt they had to make an oil filter to get most of it out.
Are most of you using the Honda filters or somethng else?
Those of you using a synth or synth blend do you notice any real world benefits that out weigh regular oils changes at 3000 miles?
In the link the "Oil Guy" is showing a lot of air mixing with the synth and and inability for the synth to climb the gears. Does anyone know if this occurs in actual use or do you suspect he rigged the display?
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