Cold Start Electrical Problem on Superchicken?
06-25-2009 | 10:38 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
More Electrical Problem on Superchicken/ Rectifier issues. Problem Solved! :)
Well,
I have another strange question. So i have been having quite a few fun electrical issues lately. Well, this newest one really stumps me. I knew i had a rectifier issue because my bike wouldn't start one morning about 2 months ago. I then bought a new one and installed it. Well, it didn't fix the problem permanently and so i took the wiring apart and re soldered it last week. Well, the problem was fixed it seemed. Well, today i got out to ride my bike again and the darn thing wouldn't start for about the 5th or 6th time this season. If I catch it super quick, like 1 secon of starting, it runs. But if i go 2-3 seconds all the power dies. I assumed that because of the bad rectifier connection, the battery was blown.
Well, anyways, I called around and then i went back to batteries plus, where i got my 2 year old battery. All it took was 45 minutes on the trickel charger and she started right up. It should take like 5 or 6 hours to charge with a 1.5amp charger.
Well, we tested that darn battery with every tool in the shop. It had 230 CCA and 12.8 V. FRICKEN CRAZY! So now i am so confused. I purchased a new battery even though every instrument he owned said my battery was perfect. He even put it on a 300CCA setting and the unit said the battery was good. So do our bikes have some sort of strange cold start issue that i haven't seen before. Or is there some common wiring issue that sounds like what i have? Once i get the bike started for the day, she runs all day. It is just the first start of the day when the oil hasnt been run at all for a few days. If i ride every day, i dont think i have the problem. I am just at a loss of words. The guy is going to give me my money back if i find out it is something else. I would really like it to be something simple, so i can get my 55 bucks back
If my old battery is still good, that would be awesome!
Problem Solved:
Quick update: Bike is completely fixed.
The terminals shown below looked totally fine. I couldnt believe it, but then i sanded them a bit and i found out they had a small layer of corrosion , that was actaully pretty bad. Once i did that, the bike started up immediately. First rotation of the engine. It hasnt done that in MONTHS! Man, almost the whole summer has sucked because of light corrosion. Geesh! So the problem at the beginning of the summer was a mixture of a bad rectifier and corrosion on the main terminals. Problem solved.
10/28/09 Problem Not Solved:
Geesh!!!! Umm, as i noted above, that fixed it for about 2 or 3 weeks. I rode day after day with no problems, and then once again in the morning the problem came back. So i have replaced the starter and now i have replaced the starter relay that i show a picture above of. I used my amp meter and i found out that the bike was using .5 amps when key was out of bike. Pretty strange. Now that i have switched the starter relay, it is down to zero. I am so frustrated. The bike tried to start a bit harder then usual today, so it might be better, but it is 28 degrees outside, so it could be that the bike is just too cold and it wouldnt start. She is on the charger and a heater is warming up the engine, so i hope she starts in a momment, but i dont know.
I have another strange question. So i have been having quite a few fun electrical issues lately. Well, this newest one really stumps me. I knew i had a rectifier issue because my bike wouldn't start one morning about 2 months ago. I then bought a new one and installed it. Well, it didn't fix the problem permanently and so i took the wiring apart and re soldered it last week. Well, the problem was fixed it seemed. Well, today i got out to ride my bike again and the darn thing wouldn't start for about the 5th or 6th time this season. If I catch it super quick, like 1 secon of starting, it runs. But if i go 2-3 seconds all the power dies. I assumed that because of the bad rectifier connection, the battery was blown.
Well, anyways, I called around and then i went back to batteries plus, where i got my 2 year old battery. All it took was 45 minutes on the trickel charger and she started right up. It should take like 5 or 6 hours to charge with a 1.5amp charger.
Well, we tested that darn battery with every tool in the shop. It had 230 CCA and 12.8 V. FRICKEN CRAZY! So now i am so confused. I purchased a new battery even though every instrument he owned said my battery was perfect. He even put it on a 300CCA setting and the unit said the battery was good. So do our bikes have some sort of strange cold start issue that i haven't seen before. Or is there some common wiring issue that sounds like what i have? Once i get the bike started for the day, she runs all day. It is just the first start of the day when the oil hasnt been run at all for a few days. If i ride every day, i dont think i have the problem. I am just at a loss of words. The guy is going to give me my money back if i find out it is something else. I would really like it to be something simple, so i can get my 55 bucks back
If my old battery is still good, that would be awesome!Problem Solved:
Quick update: Bike is completely fixed.
The terminals shown below looked totally fine. I couldnt believe it, but then i sanded them a bit and i found out they had a small layer of corrosion , that was actaully pretty bad. Once i did that, the bike started up immediately. First rotation of the engine. It hasnt done that in MONTHS! Man, almost the whole summer has sucked because of light corrosion. Geesh! So the problem at the beginning of the summer was a mixture of a bad rectifier and corrosion on the main terminals. Problem solved.
10/28/09 Problem Not Solved:
Geesh!!!! Umm, as i noted above, that fixed it for about 2 or 3 weeks. I rode day after day with no problems, and then once again in the morning the problem came back. So i have replaced the starter and now i have replaced the starter relay that i show a picture above of. I used my amp meter and i found out that the bike was using .5 amps when key was out of bike. Pretty strange. Now that i have switched the starter relay, it is down to zero. I am so frustrated. The bike tried to start a bit harder then usual today, so it might be better, but it is 28 degrees outside, so it could be that the bike is just too cold and it wouldnt start. She is on the charger and a heater is warming up the engine, so i hope she starts in a momment, but i dont know.
Last edited by viperkillertt; 10-28-2009 at 12:11 PM.
06-26-2009 | 01:35 AM
#3
guru of things sparky
SuperSport
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 599
From: Grand Prairie , Texas
Still sounds like a wimpy battery.
You most likely BBQed it when the R/R failed.
Unless you load test it, cheap shot measurements will lie to you about health.
Even with an automotive load tester, you should be able to stand more than a few seconds on the test before it falls flat.
You most likely BBQed it when the R/R failed.
Unless you load test it, cheap shot measurements will lie to you about health.
Even with an automotive load tester, you should be able to stand more than a few seconds on the test before it falls flat.
06-26-2009 | 01:49 AM
#4
Thread Starter
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
Still sounds like a wimpy battery.
You most likely BBQed it when the R/R failed.
Unless you load test it, cheap shot measurements will lie to you about health.
Even with an automotive load tester, you should be able to stand more than a few seconds on the test before it falls flat.
You most likely BBQed it when the R/R failed.
Unless you load test it, cheap shot measurements will lie to you about health.
Even with an automotive load tester, you should be able to stand more than a few seconds on the test before it falls flat.
I also have bad news. The soldering job was not the problem with my newest R/R So i need to get my money back and get a new one. Darnit!
So a quick overview, nothing was wrong, then i started noticing flashing lights. Then bike wouldnt start then i bought a newer R/R from a 03 R1. Exact same problem after about 3 days. The only time i know i have a problem is when i drive at night. I think i need to go and get my old battery back until i know that my electrical problem is fixed, otherwise i am going to fry a new battery.
06-26-2009 | 02:22 AM
#5
guru of things sparky
SuperSport
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 599
From: Grand Prairie , Texas
any time the lights are clicking from high to lower a lot, you have R/R issues.
But it could be a leaky Diode as well. The Diode (actually a pair of them) sits in the fuse box and looks almost like a black fuse.
these things are trouble makers when they are bad, as many poeple dont know about them. I blew my diode and ended up taking two 5 watt diodes and making my own replacement.
The best way to pass or fail a R/R is to measure volts at battery when its running.
When you rev it past 1200 rpm, you should see voltage production at around 13.5 or more. On top of that, It should peak voltage somewhere near 16 volts max.
If you rev up motor and see 17 and up right away, the R/R is junk.
If you rev up motor and see less than 14.5 its junk.
But it could be a leaky Diode as well. The Diode (actually a pair of them) sits in the fuse box and looks almost like a black fuse.
these things are trouble makers when they are bad, as many poeple dont know about them. I blew my diode and ended up taking two 5 watt diodes and making my own replacement.
The best way to pass or fail a R/R is to measure volts at battery when its running.
When you rev it past 1200 rpm, you should see voltage production at around 13.5 or more. On top of that, It should peak voltage somewhere near 16 volts max.
If you rev up motor and see 17 and up right away, the R/R is junk.
If you rev up motor and see less than 14.5 its junk.
Last edited by Circuit_Burner; 06-26-2009 at 02:34 AM.
06-26-2009 | 02:54 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
any time the lights are clicking from high to lower a lot, you have R/R issues.
But it could be a leaky Diode as well. The Diode (actually a pair of them) sits in the fuse box and looks almost like a black fuse.
these things are trouble makers when they are bad, as many poeple dont know about them. I blew my diode and ended up taking two 5 watt diodes and making my own replacement.
The best way to pass or fail a R/R is to measure volts at battery when its running.
When you rev it past 1200 rpm, you should see voltage production at around 13.5 or more. On top of that, It should peak voltage somewhere near 16 volts max.
If you rev up motor and see 17 and up right away, the R/R is junk.
If you rev up motor and see less than 14.5 its junk.
But it could be a leaky Diode as well. The Diode (actually a pair of them) sits in the fuse box and looks almost like a black fuse.
these things are trouble makers when they are bad, as many poeple dont know about them. I blew my diode and ended up taking two 5 watt diodes and making my own replacement.
The best way to pass or fail a R/R is to measure volts at battery when its running.
When you rev it past 1200 rpm, you should see voltage production at around 13.5 or more. On top of that, It should peak voltage somewhere near 16 volts max.
If you rev up motor and see 17 and up right away, the R/R is junk.
If you rev up motor and see less than 14.5 its junk.
This is like the 4th thread i have created on these problems with my bike this year. I wish i had kept them together, but i kept thinking i had a new problem
HAHA. Well, i will get someone to help me rev the bike when i test with the multi meter. i remember on the previous R/R it wouldn't go very high. It would go to 14.4V but never go higher then that. The new one is 13.something at idle and i havent tested it for higher RPMS yet.
06-27-2009 | 12:10 AM
#7
Thread Starter
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
New update: The new rectifier is totally toast. It was running 13.7 volts at 7k. Didn't budge anything over that. Idle and high rev the same. Also, i got home after a full day of riding with the new battery and the battery was fully charged when i got home. So that does confuse me, but it was flashing the whole ride home, so it definitely isn't working right.
06-27-2009 | 12:51 AM
#8
guru of things sparky
SuperSport
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 599
From: Grand Prairie , Texas
Have you checked the stator for crispiness?
If the stator checks out, you can blame the R/R fully.
An open circuit in the stator would deliver reduced power like you described.
If you ride fairly fast it will charge on two phases up to around 13.6 volts also.
heres a trick / tip ...
If you are ever out on a trip far from home and your R/R starts overcharging and you notice the lights are a lot brighter than normal, STOP riding.
Pull over and pull 1 wire from the stator. Take a knife if you have to and cut one of the 3 stator wires.(yellow)
This will let you ride and get home, by still charging but limiting the peak voltage to less than 15.
If the stator checks out, you can blame the R/R fully.
An open circuit in the stator would deliver reduced power like you described.
If you ride fairly fast it will charge on two phases up to around 13.6 volts also.
heres a trick / tip ...
If you are ever out on a trip far from home and your R/R starts overcharging and you notice the lights are a lot brighter than normal, STOP riding.
Pull over and pull 1 wire from the stator. Take a knife if you have to and cut one of the 3 stator wires.(yellow)
This will let you ride and get home, by still charging but limiting the peak voltage to less than 15.
Last edited by Circuit_Burner; 06-27-2009 at 12:55 AM.
06-27-2009 | 01:21 AM
#9
Thread Starter
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
Have you checked the stator for crispiness?
If the stator checks out, you can blame the R/R fully.
An open circuit in the stator would deliver reduced power like you described.
If you ride fairly fast it will charge on two phases up to around 13.6 volts also.
heres a trick / tip ...
If you are ever out on a trip far from home and your R/R starts overcharging and you notice the lights are a lot brighter than normal, STOP riding.
Pull over and pull 1 wire from the stator. Take a knife if you have to and cut one of the 3 stator wires.(yellow)
This will let you ride and get home, by still charging but limiting the peak voltage to less than 15.
If the stator checks out, you can blame the R/R fully.
An open circuit in the stator would deliver reduced power like you described.
If you ride fairly fast it will charge on two phases up to around 13.6 volts also.
heres a trick / tip ...
If you are ever out on a trip far from home and your R/R starts overcharging and you notice the lights are a lot brighter than normal, STOP riding.
Pull over and pull 1 wire from the stator. Take a knife if you have to and cut one of the 3 stator wires.(yellow)
This will let you ride and get home, by still charging but limiting the peak voltage to less than 15.
06-27-2009 | 04:14 AM
#10
guru of things sparky
SuperSport
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 599
From: Grand Prairie , Texas
No, lol , its a static test, not running.
but heres another good tip when checking stators ...
Check cold, then warm up bike and check it while its hot.
If theres a big difference in any properties between hot and cold states, you have a demon.
Hot should give about 1 more ohm. Nothing more than 2.
Weak and failing stator might test good cold, but show 15 ohms on one winding when hot.
fail.
06-27-2009 | 11:21 AM
#11
Thread Starter
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
No, lol , its a static test, not running.
but heres another good tip when checking stators ...
Check cold, then warm up bike and check it while its hot.
If theres a big difference in any properties between hot and cold states, you have a demon.
Hot should give about 1 more ohm. Nothing more than 2.
Weak and failing stator might test good cold, but show 15 ohms on one winding when hot.
fail.
but heres another good tip when checking stators ...
Check cold, then warm up bike and check it while its hot.
If theres a big difference in any properties between hot and cold states, you have a demon.
Hot should give about 1 more ohm. Nothing more than 2.
Weak and failing stator might test good cold, but show 15 ohms on one winding when hot.
fail.
Also if a battery is fully charged, would a good rectifier show only 13. 7 volts at 7k? The battery was fully charged when i tested it. It was the brand new battery.
06-27-2009 | 01:44 PM
#12
guru of things sparky
SuperSport
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 599
From: Grand Prairie , Texas
No , if the stator is good, and your production is that low, you have one leg of the three legged rectifier down.
Partial rectifier failure.
(failure mode 1/3 A) lol
Most just go POP.
that was a tough little fighter of a rectifier.
Partial rectifier failure.
(failure mode 1/3 A) lol
Most just go POP.
that was a tough little fighter of a rectifier.
06-27-2009 | 08:27 PM
#13
Thread Starter
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
I just warm tested the stator. It is at 2.0 ohms. It will go between 1.9 and 2.1 ohm when warm. The manual says anything over 2.0 is bad, but i think that sounds decent. What do you think?
06-29-2009 | 10:39 AM
#15
Thread Starter
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
Ok
Umm, yeah, the rectiifier killed another bulb last night
I got over to my friends and was leaving about 10 and no light Luckily i had 2 spares in the garage and i was able to get one driven over. Also, the new one didnt blink like my other one that just died. It was sorta strange.
I touched the rectifier with my hands after i got home, and DAMN! it was hot!
Also, what is very strange is almost every night, i get home and i put the trickle charger on it, but it turns to charged almost immediately. But then in the mornings, dead again. Can a bad rectifier be draining the battery over night?
Umm, yeah, the rectiifier killed another bulb last night
I got over to my friends and was leaving about 10 and no light
Luckily i had 2 spares in the garage and i was able to get one driven over. Also, the new one didnt blink like my other one that just died. It was sorta strange.I touched the rectifier with my hands after i got home, and DAMN! it was hot!
Also, what is very strange is almost every night, i get home and i put the trickle charger on it, but it turns to charged almost immediately. But then in the mornings, dead again. Can a bad rectifier be draining the battery over night?
06-29-2009 | 10:55 AM
#16
guru of things sparky
SuperSport
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 599
From: Grand Prairie , Texas
Very possible,
One thing I will share with everyone is that solder, even the silver solder I use when manufacturing them gets into a liquid state during hard use.
If it werent for the potting material they use in the stock style conventional R/R, the solder would melt and run away causing failure within hours of use.
Pretty wild huh?
When the stockers fail, most times you will notice that molten solder has penetrated the potting somewhere on the R/R surface.
I use the smallest amounts of silver solder to make bonds, and rely more on mechanical connections internally on the rectifiers.
So , yes, its very possible that liquid solder is rolling around and shorting stuff out.
One thing I will share with everyone is that solder, even the silver solder I use when manufacturing them gets into a liquid state during hard use.
If it werent for the potting material they use in the stock style conventional R/R, the solder would melt and run away causing failure within hours of use.
Pretty wild huh?
When the stockers fail, most times you will notice that molten solder has penetrated the potting somewhere on the R/R surface.
I use the smallest amounts of silver solder to make bonds, and rely more on mechanical connections internally on the rectifiers.
So , yes, its very possible that liquid solder is rolling around and shorting stuff out.
07-07-2009 | 11:00 AM
#17
Thread Starter
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
Very possible,
One thing I will share with everyone is that solder, even the silver solder I use when manufacturing them gets into a liquid state during hard use.
If it werent for the potting material they use in the stock style conventional R/R, the solder would melt and run away causing failure within hours of use.
Pretty wild huh?
When the stockers fail, most times you will notice that molten solder has penetrated the potting somewhere on the R/R surface.
I use the smallest amounts of silver solder to make bonds, and rely more on mechanical connections internally on the rectifiers.
So , yes, its very possible that liquid solder is rolling around and shorting stuff out.
One thing I will share with everyone is that solder, even the silver solder I use when manufacturing them gets into a liquid state during hard use.
If it werent for the potting material they use in the stock style conventional R/R, the solder would melt and run away causing failure within hours of use.
Pretty wild huh?
When the stockers fail, most times you will notice that molten solder has penetrated the potting somewhere on the R/R surface.
I use the smallest amounts of silver solder to make bonds, and rely more on mechanical connections internally on the rectifiers.
So , yes, its very possible that liquid solder is rolling around and shorting stuff out.
Basically i dont think that the rectifiers are bad. 3 just cant be bad. I am keeping them straight and i am going to ride at night soon. Also, a few days ago i was at a friends house and the bulb blew again, but it didnt do it the normal way. It just had a burnt spot on one of the terminals. This totally killed the bulb. What else could cause a bike to overcharge then the rectifier? I am so confused, i feel that it is something really simple that i have overlooked. With the new battery, the bike was still blinking. With the new bulb that i popped in, i didn't notice any flashing on the ride home. Is it possible that i just had 2 bad bulbs in a row and that fixed the flashing issues?
07-07-2009 | 01:06 PM
#18
guru of things sparky
SuperSport
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 599
From: Grand Prairie , Texas
If it blows the bulb, the regulator is toast, no other way around it.
Also, these failures( mode-a , mode-b , mode-c ) can be intermittent, and misleading as hell. (the molten solder thing)
Stuff will be normal looking, and you take off and ride, and the **** hits the fan.
And there are only two major components in the charging system... the R/R and the stator.
As the stators are very easy to check, I always suggest to check it 1st.
Do the cold check, and then of course, warm the bike up and do the test hot.
Hot should only increase the ohms reading a few ohms.
Also, these failures( mode-a , mode-b , mode-c ) can be intermittent, and misleading as hell. (the molten solder thing)
Stuff will be normal looking, and you take off and ride, and the **** hits the fan.
And there are only two major components in the charging system... the R/R and the stator.
As the stators are very easy to check, I always suggest to check it 1st.
Do the cold check, and then of course, warm the bike up and do the test hot.
Hot should only increase the ohms reading a few ohms.
Last edited by Circuit_Burner; 07-07-2009 at 02:23 PM.
07-07-2009 | 02:34 PM
#19
Thread Starter
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
If it blows the bulb, the regulator is toast, no other way around it.
Also, these failures( mode-a , mode-b , mode-c ) can be intermittent, and misleading as hell. (the molten solder thing)
Stuff will be normal looking, and you take off and ride, and the **** hits the fan.
And there are only two major components in the charging system... the R/R and the stator.
As the stators are very easy to check, I always suggest to check it 1st.
Do the cold check, and then of course, warm the bike up and do the test hot.
Hot should only increase the ohms reading a few ohms.
Also, these failures( mode-a , mode-b , mode-c ) can be intermittent, and misleading as hell. (the molten solder thing)
Stuff will be normal looking, and you take off and ride, and the **** hits the fan.
And there are only two major components in the charging system... the R/R and the stator.
As the stators are very easy to check, I always suggest to check it 1st.
Do the cold check, and then of course, warm the bike up and do the test hot.
Hot should only increase the ohms reading a few ohms.
07-07-2009 | 02:34 PM
#20
Administrator
World Champion
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 105,287
From: Fulton, MO
Just out of curiosity, is it the high or low beam that keeps blowing? Also, what kind of bulbs are you using? Standard or high performance car bulbs don't work so well on the VTR due to vibration. I've been running a heavy duty Raybrig for years and I still catch the tops of trees on fire with the high beam. 
07-07-2009 | 09:04 PM
#22
Thread Starter
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
Just out of curiosity, is it the high or low beam that keeps blowing? Also, what kind of bulbs are you using? Standard or high performance car bulbs don't work so well on the VTR due to vibration. I've been running a heavy duty Raybrig for years and I still catch the tops of trees on fire with the high beam.
Yeah, they are automotive ones. I think i bought this set for one of my cars at one point. Almost all of my vehicles use h4 bulbs, which rocks.
07-07-2009 | 09:06 PM
#23
Thread Starter
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
another very interesting point. So the other day i spent about 10 minutes just idling the bike and testing the 3 rectifiers over and over again, well i got out today and expected the battery to be dead. Well, it wasn't, it started right up, no problem. I don't get it because i really used a lot of energy restarting the bike like 6 or 7 times and then i didn't ride for like 5 days. I have recently not been able to start her after just over night. I dont get what is going on. These damn gremlins are really driving me nutz!!!
07-07-2009 | 09:13 PM
#24
guru of things sparky
SuperSport
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 599
From: Grand Prairie , Texas
Like I said, they short internally and are quite random sometimes.
They are known for giving service departments hell.
Stators can indeed do this exact symptom except they are rarely intermittent due to
their physical properties and construction.
You have the "rolling liquid solder gremlins" going on inside.
have one hang by its leads not bolted to the frame, then get it real hot and bang it around before it cools... and you will see the symptons change in most cases.
They are known for giving service departments hell.
Stators can indeed do this exact symptom except they are rarely intermittent due to
their physical properties and construction.
You have the "rolling liquid solder gremlins" going on inside.
have one hang by its leads not bolted to the frame, then get it real hot and bang it around before it cools... and you will see the symptons change in most cases.
07-07-2009 | 09:35 PM
#25
Thread Starter
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
07-10-2009 | 01:28 PM
#26
Thread Starter
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
GRRRR! Another frustrating morning.
I dont get it.
I just created a video of the issue today. She tries to turn over. I can keep doing it. It is almost like it doesnt have enough voltage to actually turn. Is that possible? The bike is at about 12.5 volts when i try it in the morning. After i ride the battery stays at about 13. 4 volts and then the next day it is at about 12. 5. I think this is normal. I put her on the trickle charger, it is almost like she has enough amps in her, but not high enough voltage to start.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwAXNUonRN0
Now, she is on the charger and almost always will be done within about 15-20 minutes. She clearly is near fully charged. When i am actually riding around town i never have a single problem, it is only when i am at home. It is always the first ride of the day.
Why is the rectifier clicking each time i try to start?
I dont get it.
I just created a video of the issue today. She tries to turn over. I can keep doing it. It is almost like it doesnt have enough voltage to actually turn. Is that possible? The bike is at about 12.5 volts when i try it in the morning. After i ride the battery stays at about 13. 4 volts and then the next day it is at about 12. 5. I think this is normal. I put her on the trickle charger, it is almost like she has enough amps in her, but not high enough voltage to start.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwAXNUonRN0
Now, she is on the charger and almost always will be done within about 15-20 minutes. She clearly is near fully charged. When i am actually riding around town i never have a single problem, it is only when i am at home. It is always the first ride of the day.
Why is the rectifier clicking each time i try to start?
Last edited by viperkillertt; 07-10-2009 at 01:34 PM.
07-10-2009 | 02:32 PM
#27
Thread Starter
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
Another update. I just walked out and after about an hour of charging, she wasnt quite done. The voltage was upto 13.34 volts. That seems high for a battery that isnt on. Could that have something to do with the problem? why would my battery be so high? If it is at like 13.5v when off, then the rectifier isnt doing much when it is only 13. 8 when on.
GRRR, darn electrical gremlins.
I want to mention again, when i get off the bike after riding, the battery is usually at about 13. 5 volts, but then i can put the volt meter on it and it slowly drains voltage. I dont have a clue about amps. My dad suggested me grab a amp meter and put it on the bike to see what is going on.
GRRR, darn electrical gremlins.
I want to mention again, when i get off the bike after riding, the battery is usually at about 13. 5 volts, but then i can put the volt meter on it and it slowly drains voltage. I dont have a clue about amps. My dad suggested me grab a amp meter and put it on the bike to see what is going on.
Last edited by viperkillertt; 07-10-2009 at 02:35 PM.
08-28-2009 | 08:23 PM
#28
Thread Starter
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
Problem Solved:
Quick update: Bike is completely fixed.
The terminals shown below looked totally fine. I couldnt believe it, but then i sanded them a bit and i found out they had a small layer of corrosion , that was actaully pretty bad. Once i did that, the bike started up immediately. First rotation of the engine. It hasnt done that in MONTHS! Man, almost the whole summer has sucked because of light corrosion. Geesh! So the problem at the beginning of the summer was a mixture of a bad rectifier and corrosion on the main terminals. Problem solved.
Quick update: Bike is completely fixed.
The terminals shown below looked totally fine. I couldnt believe it, but then i sanded them a bit and i found out they had a small layer of corrosion , that was actaully pretty bad. Once i did that, the bike started up immediately. First rotation of the engine. It hasnt done that in MONTHS! Man, almost the whole summer has sucked because of light corrosion. Geesh! So the problem at the beginning of the summer was a mixture of a bad rectifier and corrosion on the main terminals. Problem solved.
10-28-2009 | 12:12 PM
#29
Thread Starter
Josh
Superstock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 278
From: Spokane, WA
10/28/09 Problem Not Solved:
Geesh!!!! Umm, as i noted above, that fixed it for about 2 or 3 weeks. I rode day after day with no problems, and then once again in the morning the problem came back. So i have replaced the starter and now i have replaced the starter relay that i show a picture above of. I used my amp meter and i found out that the bike was using .5 amps when key was out of bike. Pretty strange. Now that i have switched the starter relay, it is down to zero. I am so frustrated. The bike tried to start a bit harder then usual today, so it might be better, but it is 28 degrees outside, so it could be that the bike is just too cold and it wouldnt start. She is on the charger and a heater is warming up the engine, so
Geesh!!!! Umm, as i noted above, that fixed it for about 2 or 3 weeks. I rode day after day with no problems, and then once again in the morning the problem came back. So i have replaced the starter and now i have replaced the starter relay that i show a picture above of. I used my amp meter and i found out that the bike was using .5 amps when key was out of bike. Pretty strange. Now that i have switched the starter relay, it is down to zero. I am so frustrated. The bike tried to start a bit harder then usual today, so it might be better, but it is 28 degrees outside, so it could be that the bike is just too cold and it wouldnt start. She is on the charger and a heater is warming up the engine, so
11-04-2009 | 12:16 PM
#30
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 186
From: Santucky, CA
Josh, sorry to hear you bought 3 R/Rs....
Manual for 98-03 states.
Battery - Fully charged: 13->13.2V
Charging voltage: Measured Battery < Measured Charging Voltage < 15.5V.
Sounds like your battery is a bit low at 12.8, but could be fine...manual doesn't give tolerances, but they are usually +/-.
Have you cleaned/checked the operation of your hi/low beam switch? Could be shorting out...it is over 10yrs old.
Manual for 98-03 states.
Battery - Fully charged: 13->13.2V
Charging voltage: Measured Battery < Measured Charging Voltage < 15.5V.
Sounds like your battery is a bit low at 12.8, but could be fine...manual doesn't give tolerances, but they are usually +/-.
Have you cleaned/checked the operation of your hi/low beam switch? Could be shorting out...it is over 10yrs old.
Last edited by 01SuperChicken; 11-04-2009 at 12:31 PM.
