Is This A Diy Job ? Special Tools
How Long ?

 

Clutches are fairly simple, the best tool you can get is a service manual, other than that you'll need the cover gasket, all discs and plates and a case of beer.

 

You need a manual. The clutch nut is staked against the shaft so you need to pry or grind that spot CAREFULLY so it will come off. You need to keep the engine from turning when you loosen the clutch nut. There are several different ways to do this. I did some gymnastics and put it in gear and stepped hard on the rear brake. A breaker bar will give you alot more leverage than a ratchet. I believe it's a 22mm socket. I DO remember the honda dealer and their microfiche being WRONG for some reason they ALL list it as 25mm. The best part is they sell a special tool for like $250 and I bought a socket at home depot for $5. You also need a torque wrench for putting it back on. Do yourself a favor and order the new clutch nut and clutch cover gasket AHEAD of time, it was a special order and took my local dealer no b.s. almost 2 months to finally get it. This is not an entire step by step but the rest of the process is fairly easy. Again following a manual will make it easier.

 

If he just change the plates and discs, is the clutch drum removal necessary ??

 

Sorry...skip the clutch nut step if only replacing the plates. For some reason I was thinking entire basket. That's what happens when you try and think 5 minutes after you wake up

 

It's pretty straight forward, the worst part is getting the old gasket off. I'd stick a new set of springs in it too while you've got it apart, they do soften up over time. That case of beer is a good idea.

 

If the basket shows no abnormal wear he'll probably be able to go around that.
I had to grind some claws on a CR-125 clutch basket (stuck clutch) and had to do it inside the engine case (with taped garbage bags). I tried your gymnastic to no avail, high gear rear brake long breaker bar, damn the rear wheel was spinning with me on the bike, the nut was too damaged so I stopped, this is really impact territory. Maybe if you could save a foot to hold the extension centered while you push
I try to make those mechanical moments as nice as it could, so I don't freak out when I have to perform a surgery, I just consider the cost and don't care about the labor, If taken like a punishment, it turns something potentially fun in a nightmare, that's why cold ones are part of my tool box

 

I'm putting in a shift kit, do I need a clutch nut? Is the clutch nut the one with the indented lip?

 

I meant do I need a NEW nut.

 

What the shift kit is made of, air shifter ??

 

factory pro detent arm and spring

 

Yeah just changing the clutch plates is nothing crazy. Again do order that clutch cover gasket beforehand though...Clean the old gasket off the cover well. I also used a tiny bit of hondabond ht to hold it in place and make it easy when I put the cover back on, because dry it will tend to move around and give you a hard time. Those bolts for the clutch springs are also supposed to be torqued to only 12 Nm according to haynes. Yeah gboezio, I had to make sure I bounced down on the rear brake pedal and time it right and turn the clutch nut as my weight was coming down on the bike or the back wheel spun. Maybe you're not drinking enough beer you need to get some more weight behind it If you have access to an impact gun sure that's the way to go.

 

http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prodh77.html Ignore the picture of the RC51 (?) and scroll down a bit. Here's the instructions for the shift kit. Seems like you do need to remove the nut...Again a Haynes manual will help alot if you don't have one. They're cheap and you'll use it over and over again.

 

do you have to drain the oil when pulling the clutch?

 

Yeah, out the drain plug is alot less messy than out the clutch cover